[pokey1]

Is there a preferred or better way of tying in the fuel line for the nitrous to the high pressure line from the fuel injection? Thanks

[chiphead]

What kind of system, under TB plate or port fogger?

Are you going to use the fuel injection to add the extra fuel (dry system) or use a fuel solenoid/jets to add the extra fuel (wet system)?

[pokey1]

Using NX under throttle body plate with EZ EFI 2.0 with in tank pump. Will be wet system for the extra fuel. Thanks

[chiphead]

I'm thinking it would be straightforward to plumb it with AN line. The trick is maintaining solid fuel pressure. It doesn't matter if it's 5 PSI or 55 PSI, it just needs to be consistent for tuning. Online calculators will give you fuel jet size for a given fuel pressure, given nitrous jet and desired HP level. The only issue with high fuel pressures, is that the fuel jet size will get very small to flow the proper amount of fuel. Use good filters to prevent orifice plugging.

If you expect fluctuations in fuel pressure, you'll need to install a separate regulator. Always set the fuel pressure regulator for a nitrous system using a flow tool.

[pokey1]

So I am trying to find a way to make the nitrous work with the new FAST 2.0 fuel injection. Looking at a separate fuel system. Does anybody have an idea how far a 1 gallon fuel cell would go when running a 150 shot of nitrous? Thank you.

[chiphead]

I'd think you could safely get at least 8-10 passes out of 1 gallon at 150 shot, assuming you can keep the pump submerged. You would have to calculate the lbs/hr fuel consumption of your engine for a given fuel to figure out exactly how long 1 gallon would produce 150 HP.

[Stan Weiss]

some rough rounded math.

lets say 150 HP = 550 lb/hr of nitrous

you are running 10:1 nitrous / fuel ratio = 55.0 lb/hr fuel

fuel is 7.5 lbs per gallon = 7.33 gallons per hour

1 gallon = 8.2 minutes

Stan

[pokey1]

Gentleman Thanks for the replies

[pokey1]

I am going to try using a separate 1.5 gallon fuel tank with it own pump and regulator using a return style setup. Since I already have everything but the tank. Sounds like the fuel tank will last as long as the 10 lb nitrous bottle. Just refuel the tank when changing bottle. Will need to confirm while watching usage. Would there be an advantage to using just race fuel in this tank? Typically run non ethanol premium when around town or add 1 gallon face fuel to 5 gallons premium when going to track.

[avman]

I am going to use one of these if I add Nitrous plates to my 3x2bbl carbs on my Roadrunner or the 3x2 Rochesters on the 421 GTO
https://youtu.be/zIU8fwvdMP4

[chiphead]

Honestly I would just run pump premium in the main fuel tank. If it doesn't ping on the street it's not going to at the track. A experiment would be to make 2-3 passes on half a tank of only pump premium and then 2-3 with 5 gallons of VP110 added on the same day. If it doesn't go more than a tenth or two faster, you don't need it. 1 gallon of race gas per 5 gallons of pump premium isn't moving the octane much anyway. Blending your own witches brew fuel makes tuning harder.

For the N2O fuel system, it depends on several engine factors. Running 110VP LL would give a wider tuning window. You would have to pull less timing. It would also color the plugs better for tuning. Just don't tune it for VP110 and then accidentally run 93 pump gas. That could be bad. Find a basic race fuel easily available to you and stick with it. Don't switch from VP110 to something else chasing the dragon. That'll make tuning a mess. Take detailed notes every pass.

[pokey1]

Originally Posted by avman

I am going to use one of these if I add Nitrous plates to my 3x2bbl carbs on my Roadrunner or the 3x2 Rochesters on the 421 GTO
https://youtu.be/zIU8fwvdMP4

I missed that one avman... I like the battery tray mounted tank. Can put a battery tray on the passenger side and set it there. Thanks

[pokey1]

Originally Posted by chiphead

Honestly I would just run pump premium in the main fuel tank. If it doesn't ping on the street it's not going to at the track. A experiment would be to make 2-3 passes on half a tank of only pump premium and then 2-3 with 5 gallons of VP110 added on the same day. If it doesn't go more than a tenth or two faster, you don't need it. 1 gallon of race gas per 5 gallons of pump premium isn't moving the octane much anyway. Blending your own witches brew fuel makes tuning harder.

For the N2O fuel system, it depends on several engine factors. Running 110VP LL would give a wider tuning window. You would have to pull less timing. It would also color the plugs better for tuning. Just don't tune it for VP110 and then accidentally run 93 pump gas. That could be bad. Find a basic race fuel easily available to you and stick with it. Don't switch from VP110 to something else chasing the dragon. That'll make tuning a mess. Take detailed notes every pass.

Thanks for the recommendations Chiphead.. I have not noticed any pinging but when running race gas it does seem to run cooler on the hot days. You are right that I do need to be consistent on what I am running and will get more consistent times. Thank you for the reply.

[Interceptor]

Why not just tap a low-pressure regulator off the return line?

[pokey1]

I was told by the manufacturer that having the constant higher pressure will start pushing by the lower pressure regulator and you will not have consistency on the fuel being sprayed. Also your fuel pressure would not be consistent as the pressure on the return may not be steady. Some of the lower pressure self contained systems use a higher pressure pump that feed the lower pressure regulator but it is turned on separately and only for a short time. Over time that can lose consistency also.

[chiphead]

Deadhead regulator's output will "creep" toward the input pressure when not flowing. I see that on the deadhead on my N2O system. Inlet pressure on the deadhead is 8.5 PSI. Regulator set to 5 PSI flowing. When I'm driving on the street, I see the fuel solenoid pressure creep to 7 PSI or so.

That produces a rich "hit" right when the system is activated. It drops down to 5 PSI once it starts flowing. Not a big issue, as its only a few PSI. Now if a system were to creep to 50 PSI, the extra rich "hit" could cause piston damage or catastrophic intake sneeze.

What you can do in that situation is install a small restricted line that "bleeds" fuel back to the main regulator return line. That keeps the deadhead flowing just a bit and prevents creep. As long as the return line pressure was less than deadhead's setpoint, it'll work.

As an aside, that's also why you always set a deadhead's fuel pressure when flowing the output. The setpoint PSI will drop when flowing vs steady-state not flowing fuel.

[pokey1]

I am going to use a 1 gallon cell that fits in the battery tray. In my car the battery tray will fit on the right or left, nuts for the bolts are already there. Ordered a second battery tray for this and can use the pump I have now and the aeromotive fuel regulator I have now and just run a return line from the regulator back to the tank. Probably not really needed since that pump will only be on when the power is turned on for the nitrous system. It will be completely independent and just for the nitrous. Should be simple and easy to install. I do have an older and probably a little smaller pump and regulator I used to use and make it a stand alone deadhead system as well, I would think that would flow enough and be even easier to install.

[chiphead]

The pump should come on when you arm the system. Don't wait until activation to turn the pump on. You probably understand that, but just making sure.

[pokey1]

Originally Posted by chiphead

The pump should come on when you arm the system. Don't wait until activation to turn the pump on. You probably understand that, but just making sure.

Yes sir pump on when arming circuit is switched on. That way low pressure switch will be on for activation circuit hot and throttle switch feed solonoids and nitrous activated input to fuel injection to retard timing... Any idea what is a good starting point for retarding timing on activation? How much cooler plug is good for nitrous?
Have never played with Nitrous before... seems easy enough. Went to hydraulic clutch now so also need to figure where is a good place to put micro switch on clutch

Thanks

[avman]

I like that you are using a separate small tank and pump, similar to the S.A.F.E. system I linked the YouTube video of if I understand what you are writing.
I may use some 100 octane AVGAS or 110 octane Turbo Blue (Sonoco) or equivalent in that tank. The benefit being the higher octane fuel is reserved for the greatest demand event-nitrous oxide use-and pump 93 for my current 440 6bbl and the 421 Tripower works fine for all other uses. That way the expensive fuel only gets used when needed. I will probably add a splash of Marine Sta-Bil 360 to the race fuel to act as a stabilizer/"preservative" but that all remains to be seen in the distant future.