[Steve Hoog]

I bought my Tripower in 1979 and have not been deep into since 1984ish.

The front carb accelerator pump has a steel ball down in the cavity pocket that will not dislodge, or is it even supposed to? It is marked by the crude Orange arrow with black outline.

It has a back door access so to speak marked by the red arrow that just a smidge of high pressure air will bleed through; but not enough to dislodge it.

A little prying with specialty tools, no success either.

Is it supposed to come out and be replaced during kit? Is it not crucial? Does even need to come out? It seems it's function may be to keep the gas from going backwards through the hole during acceleration.

[69Farburd]

It is supposed to come out. I have had luck dislodging mine by soaking it in PB blaster and tapping the carb body upside down on the concrete garage floor. Someone else might have a better solution.

[Steve Hoog]

On third day of soaking and tapping, not giving up. Thank you sir

[lust4speed]

Plus it is necessary for the ball to move freely and properly seat to insure a good pump shot without much of the fuel being pushed back into the bowl. The balls are always included in the rebuild kits since they do deteriorate. Someone might have dropped in the wrong sized ball, and it is now causing you problems.

Isn't there two balls in the carb, one steel and one aluminum? Think that one should be the steel, but it's been quite awhile since messing with the 2-barrel.

[69Farburd]

Maybe I should have used the word rapping instead of tapping on the garage floor. I used a little bit of force, but not enough to damage the carb body.

[Steve Hoog]

Second ball yes, out in the air horn area.

It came out fine, in fact too fine. Launched and like to not found it.

Center carb only had one out in the air horn area.

[69Farburd]

I'm not sure, but I think the center carb should have two balls. The rebuild kits come with two different size balls, but I can't remember which goes where. I'm guessing that the smaller ball goes to the accelerator pump, but I'm just guessing. Maybe soak the ball with carb cleaner to remove the gas gunk?

[Steve Hoog]

The center carb is not even machined for the ball in the pump hole. The center carb cast number 7029683 goes back to Front carburetor and Rear for 65; this is cast on the bowl, I will look into that some more.

[Steve Hoog]

This thing is still stuck after trying dozens of things.

What about putting water down there and freeze it? Think it would push the ball out before the weld?

[mgarblik]

Cliff and the CarbKing are just 2 real experts in this area on this forum. Hopefully, they will chime in for you. That check ball is a real problem with the 2-jets. One problem is the WRONG check ball is often installed, then it gets really stuck. The rebuild kit will have 2 check balls, one aluminum, one slightly larger steel. The larger steel ball goes with the spring and T-lock under the cluster. That's the outlet check. The smaller aluminum ball goes below the accelerator pump return spring, the one that is stuck. That's the inlet check. I have heard of extreme cases where the casting had to be drilled and the ball punched out, but that could cause an external leak. Also the ball seat needs to be checked/restored. Someone in the forum had a way to hydraulically force a stuck ball out. Finally, I have heard of a way to leave the ball stuck and do away with the inlet check and switch the pump from a standard style with a garter spring to a floating cup design similar to a Q-jet, that doesn't use an inlet check. You have options. There is lots of carb. help on these forums. Good luck.

[tripwr1964]

i've seen where some have drilled a small hole from bottom and poked it out. them epoxy the hole up....

call mike wasson

[chrisp]

Try a pot of hot water or light heating with heat gun .

[mgarblik]

You could try a little magnet on the ball, not to remove it but to determine if the WRONG ball was installed. If it's magnetic, it's going to be extra tough to get out.

[Steve Hoog]

Trying several things right now, will advise.

I do know who put the wrong larger ball in the hole; and it is only stuck at the very top, not in the seat. But who and how is irrelevant isn't it

I was really hoping on the grease and heat combo but no luck.

[Singleton]

I would just leave the check ball where it is. I plugged my pump inlets purposely on my carbs by driving the ball into the seat with a punch. The pump still gets fuel from the slot cut into the side of the well, and with the inlet plugged off there's no chance of fuel getting pushed back into the bowl instead of out the nozzle.

Good read on the topic here: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...eck+ball+inlet

[Steve Hoog]

That's interesting Singleton.

[Tom Vaught]

The front and rear Tri-power carbs are fairly easy to get the ball out if you spray the carb pump well with some carb cleaner and then use a 2x6x10" long piece of thick wood and a glove. Turn the carb bowl up side down and wack the gasket surface evenly on the board surface with a strong stroke. That helps to loosen the ball up in most cases. I have wacked the on the board sometimes 10-15 times but the ball comes out.

As a last resort it is possible to drill a .060" hole on the opposite side of the ball (bottom of the carb) and when the drill hits the ball it will pop out. So then you clean the surface well and using a Proper Sized USED ball and a drift punch you create a new ball seat. Wack the carb bowl on the board and the used ball will be gone but you will have a clean new seat for a new ball to seat against.

Last step is to gently tap the edges of the .060" hole you made on the opposite end with a small ball pean hammer and like magic the drilled hole will disappear in the zinc casting. When the hole disappears a couple of taps (where the hole previously was) with the flat side of the hammer and the casting is like new and no one will ever tell you did the repair.

Tom Vaught

[Skip Fix]

Might get a can of computer air upside down(or a nitrous bottle) and spray the ball to try and shrink it some too.

[Steve Hoog]

Tom V

Thank you sir for taking you valuable time; along with everyone else.

Course of action: drilling, the last thing I wanted to do.

Yes there was a large Steel ball in the pump boss although not tight; scored from prying, a very easy tap out with the hole. Sacrificed one small ball to re seat the boss, should finish this tomorrow.

[Tom Vaught]

Well you got it fixed so I am happy about that deal.

Being your carbs you can grind on the casting and use the JB Weld to cover the hole.

When I do them for a customer they want it to look like it was untouched, therefore the method I mentioned above WHICH IS IMPOSSIBLE TO SEE unless you use a strong flashlight down inside the pump well to see the drilling from that end.

Tom V.

Happy TRI-POWER driving again.