[HWYSTR455]

So the driver is due for a refresh, and felt since I was going to go through it, might as well make it something worth while. I've always like the 70 GTOs, the styling is killer, the sheet metal is all available, so it makes sense to go in that direction.

I did the 442 tribute for my daughter, she loves it, so figured I stick with a winged car and make it a Judge for my son (he's inline for a classic).

Figured I'd track the progress here, and if I need any help or anything, what better place to go?

General Project Outline: Clone a 70 GTO Judge from my 71 LeMans Sport. Modern comforts, overdrive, AC, sound and thermal control, nice sound system, and low maintenance.

Here's a shot of what I'm starting with, many have seen posts of this car over the years, at PY shows, cruises, etc.

Also attached is a couple of examples of the direction I'm going, either an Orbit Orange or an Atoll Blue, and obviously, this build isn't going to be correct, just a 'tribute'. If I grabbed someone's car here, um, thanks!

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[HWYSTR455]

In preparation for the build, one item I purchased early on was an endura, and sourced it from EnduraBumper.com. I did another thread on this, and gave them a plug, feel the service and quality was worth a mention.

Obviously the proof will be once it gets mounted, and how it fits, but I've seen a number of endura bumpers in my time, and this one seems pretty nice. When the time comes, I will post more regarding.

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[HWYSTR455]

Getting right to it, the tear down begins. I blew the front clip off, and pulled the engine and trans.

Someone was interested in purchasing the front clip, but for some reason, we couldn't come to an understanding. (will be listing it in the parts section soon)

Also there's a shot of some assembly line markings on the cowl, not sure what they mean, but figured I'd include the pic for others' possible interest.

Some of the pics are out of sequence, but you get the idea....

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[HWYSTR455]

In case anyone questions if I drove this car hard or not...

Got the tires mounted on the new wheels, US MAG 18x9s, and got the rally center caps for them, should look good.

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[HWYSTR455]

So before I take the body up to the body shop, I needed to change the body bushings, since with worn out bushings, you can't do any panel alignment. I was tossing around the idea of possibly having the frame blasted and powder coated, and finally just said what the heck, and dropped the frame.

I used angle iron and bolted it to the forward pinch weld where the fender bolts to the cowl, and lowered it on to jack stands.

In the rear, I used angle iron on the bumper mounts, and lowered those on some 6x6 posts.

I gutted the front suspension and most of the rear, but you could drop it and roll it out if you wanted to. I did leave some of the rear suspension and the exhaust in place, and just removed it after the fact.

I know it looks shady, but believe me, it's not going anywhere, and is properly supported! I shook the whole thing a bunch beforehand, just to make sure the stands would hold it.

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[HWYSTR455]

So I got the frame loaded in my POS truck, and hauled it to the blaster and powder coater. Turned out pretty good, and just for reference, to have the bare frame blasted and powder coated cost me $750 in my area, which is probably a little more than most, but I am in a greater metro area.

As a suggestion, if you're going to do this, I suggest you take some time and clean up welds, slag, etc, and have the frame checked for cracks and repaired as needed.

I looked into boxing the frame but figured for my build, it wouldn't be required. If anyone is curious as to my logic, feel free to ask.

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[Held for Ransom]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Also there's a shot of some assembly line markings on the cowl, not sure what they mean, but figured I'd include the pic for others' possible interest.

Trunk key code and maybe the sequence number for line-up of car for the day built. Pontiac plant built?

[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Held for Ransom

Trunk key code and maybe the sequence number for line-up of car for the day built. Pontiac plant built?

Hm, not sure, but I do have the PHS on it, maybe I will dig it up and post info.

This car was ordered by a Pontiac dealer owner for his daughter to drive to college. It was not badly optioned, 71 LeMans Sport, lucy blue, PB, PS, AC, tuxedo interior, and vinyl top. 350 2bbl auto car. I bought it from the second owner, and it had about 69k miles on it as I remember, think I paid 2600 for it in '91, there again, I would have to check, but pretty sure. At one point I had someone approach me stating they knew the original owner, the girl who drove it to college, so the history I got from the second owner was validated. I bought the car specifically to use as a tow vehicle for a boat I was planning on buying, put a 400 in it with a Th400 and a 12 bolt 373. I bought a house instead of the boat, and the car ended up being a driver. I drove the car as my primary transportation pretty much until about 2010, and it's had like 7 or 8 engines in it, and I would freshen the engine or replace every @ 100k or so. My kids grew up riding in this car and it's a piece of the family. This go around, when it's done, the plan is to give it to my son (my daughter got the w-30 clone).

Here's a shot of it from like 1993, I had just put an H-O Strong Arm suspension on it, and 16s from like an 88 T/A. Trivia: My kids, young at the time, were ducked down in the car when I took this pic.

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[HWYSTR455]

So my buddy came over and welded the smoothie plate in today. Only took minor doctoring, a few slight high spots, and a little trimming of the panel. Held it up there and started tacking it into place.

He did like 4-6 inch spacing between the welds, started at one side, and worked his way towards the center of the firewall. That he said would prevent having the panel under any kind of tension.

Once he made a pass, he went back and started filling in the spaces. Hit it with a grinder with a course sanding disc on it, ground the welds down some, checked for open areas, and hit any remaining.

He's going to come back on night this week and do a slight bit of filler, sand it out slightly, and it will be ready for seam sealer and paint.

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[pggto]

Where is Endura Bumpers? There webpage doesn't tell you were there located.

[2002Z4CSS]

Keep the pictures coming.

[HWYSTR455]

I would have to look at the receipt as to where they are located, don't remember off the top of my head. There's a YouTube site and a FaceBook page, neither have that info.

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[HWYSTR455]

Looks like EnduraBumper.com is in Indiana, but still haven't dug up the receipt.


Anyway, couple updates here, and at least I will post a pic!

Got the firewall prepped for the smoothie plate, ground the raised lips, beat a few high spots in, and wire wheel the top/cowl area. Had to dig out a bunch of seam sealer on the top, and sides of the cowl, wire wheeled the groove, and went heavy on the POR-15 in the seams.

On the firewall, I mocked up the smoothie plate, used a sharpie and outlined it, ground/wire wheeled about a 2 inch path on either side of the sharpie line, and shot it with zinc weld thru primer. (Holy crap that's stuff is $31 a can!) I also hit a number of holes that were for firewall pad push retainers, and a few other holes that 'appeared' thru normal use, and will weld those as well.

Broke a windshield removal tool, it's an older one, so couldn't get the windshield out this past weekend, but ordered a new one, hope that will come in before next weekend.

Got a call from Jim at CVMS, seems the engine will be fine with a re-ring, new bearings, and general clean up. Will do a new cam and lifters, still trying to decide what I'll do there. I will give a break down on what was done etc once I get to that point and will post.

Also got a call from Chris at CK Perf, the trans is done, had to replace a few hard parts, did new frictions, and ordered a lower stall converter. (@2600) . Both shipped today, so should have it before the weekend. The original converter, which was @ 3000-3400 stall, I have getting freshened up, and will re-use on the 442 in the spring. (it needs an overdrive bad)

So I have some work to do, need to get the firewall and underside done before I bot the frame back up, then need to knock out the suspension to a point where it rolls, drop the engine/trans in, and take it up to the body shop by the 3rd or 4th week of Sept. . Whew! Or that's the plan!

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[GOAT WHORE]

Any updates? Have you used those solid body mounts before?

[pugslyx234]

Great thread!

[cuz68]

X2 on the great thread, Are you going to put a heater in it..

[HWYSTR455]

Yeah, I'm torn on either a Classic Auto Air setup or a Vintage Air setup. when I get to that point I will make a selection, but thinking Classic Auto most likely. I've had very good service from them, and pricing is better.

Spoke to the body shop yesterday, they are clearing a spot for my car. They finished the 62 Grand Prix that was ahead of me, and a 66 Buick GS. I may go up tomorrow to get a couple pics of the GP, that thing is sweet. Owner chose a pearl white Caddy color, turned out good. Anyway, there were hang ups on both those projects, which delayed my car getting in there. Just the way things work out in this field...


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[HWYSTR455]

Just to be informative...

I use rattle cans for suspension and other area finishing, for a number of reasons. One, later down the road, it's easy to touch up, and that's a big factor. I learned when doing the clone that it's not easy to find matching shades of rattle paint, and found that it's best to stick with one brand. Also, when trying to make sure different paints are compatible, it's best to stick with the same type of paint, be it epoxy or whatever. You don't want to find out after that you now have to strip a large section of something because you shot lacquer over acrylic or something.

Anyway, what I use is Dupli-color Engine paint, semi-gloss black. Can get it everywhere, readily available, not too expensive, and as my body guy says, sticks to anything. Don't have to worry about it catching fire either! Fairly good about repelling solvents and chemicals too.

I looked at a bunch of the bed liner stuff too, and originally bought some roll-on stuff, think it was Rhino-liner. But, that stuff is a pain to apply, need a bunch of rollers and different sizes, and it's still hard to get into some areas. So, luckily, there are aerosol ones. I didn't want one that would be 'rubbery' either, or one that would come off easy. And what I ended up with is the Dupli-color Bed Coating. I tried the Rust-oleum one too, it's fine, but it's a little more expensive and a little harder to find. I was able to get the Dupli-color one on sale for $7 a can, which is a pretty good deal, think normally they're like $10-12 a can.

I've gotten good results with my rattle can approach, and for a driver-quality car, it works, looks good, lasts, easy to touch up, and makes parts/areas last longer.

I'm curious how other approach this on a driver-class car, and would like to hear opinions/suggestions/comments...

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[HWYSTR455]

FINALLY!! Spot opened up in the body shop, and got the car up there! Here's a shot of it on the rollback:

Hope PY gets the site figured out, looks like all my previously posted project shots are now gone...

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[2002Z4CSS]

Those wheel are what I want to run on my GT-37. They look great!