[HWYSTR455]

Mine I had to shuffle the engine around some and it was tight. It wouldn't drop down until it was perfectly square over the mounts.

On the IA2, I had to slightly grind the square part over the top of the mount, it hit the slight bend at the top of the engine mount. And that was with Anchor mounts. When I did the Torque Loc ones it was tight, but just had to make sure it was square lowering down.

I had a similar issue with the Anchor mounts on a 69 400 block before, so did the same to the IA2 before it went into a car. Maybe that's why I had luck with the torque loc ones?

Not sure, but may go back and look at it. You might be able to wob the engine mount bolt holes so the mounts sit lower on the engine. Lower on the 'V' would make it closer together. A tenth of an inch isn't much.

If there's some rubber built up in the hole, that might also be a problem.



.

[Bruce Meyer]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Mine I had to shuffle the engine around some and it was tight. It wouldn't drop down until it was perfectly square over the mounts.

On the IA2, I had to slightly grind the square part over the top of the mount, it hit the slight bend at the top of the engine mount. And that was with Anchor mounts. When I did the Torque Loc ones it was tight, but just had to make sure it was square lowering down.

I had a similar issue with the Anchor mounts on a 69 400 block before, so did the same to the IA2 before it went into a car. Maybe that's why I had luck with the torque loc ones?

Not sure, but may go back and look at it. You might be able to wob the engine mount bolt holes so the mounts sit lower on the engine. Lower on the 'V' would make it closer together. A tenth of an inch isn't much.

If there's some rubber built up in the hole, that might also be a problem.



.

A tenth of an inch is enough to cause trouble. The factory ones are a close fit. Tighten it up by a tenth of and inch and there is a problem. Never in my decades of removing and installing Pontiac motors in anything have I come across this problem. Whoever designed these dropped the ball big time. If anything they should have made them on the wide side. Tightening the bolt would have tightened up any slop. Typical of the crap that the aftermarket puts out lately.

[HWYSTR455]

I've R&R'd a ton of engines in my cars, and for the longest time Anchor was the only mounts that I had access to (as I remember). And I've had this issue a handful of times. Enough to really piss me off.

Some of those 'encounters' were in the late 80s, 90s, 2000s, and 20-teens.

Sadly, I would buy several sets, and eventually one set would work, tossing the rest in the circular.

I had a crew of friends over one time, 'helping' when I was dropping an engine in. Folks would come and just hang out while I banged on cars, keep me company whatever. But I ran into another set of mounts that wouldn't fit, was my last set.

So I climbed onto the engine, stood on the intake, with my hand on the cherry picker boom, and shifted my weight back & forth, side to side, trying to get it to drop in place. Everyone looked at me like I was from the moon. And when I said it was a common problem and its the mounts, that all laughed at me.

The guys still pick on me from that experience to this day. Any time someone has a problem, I ask if they want me to come jump on it for them.



.

[Bruce Meyer]

Here is another quality item from the aftermarket. This fuel line is supposed to go around the passenger side of the thermostat housing. That's as far as it will go. It hits the timing cover.

[HWYSTR455]

Hm. What's the application for that line that you ordered?

Looks like you might be able to flatten the one bend and get around the other side of stat housing, but it might be too short?

That thing looks like it was done by hand. Who did that one come from?

.

[HWYSTR455]

I wonder if the difference is due to the type of pump you used. One without a canister would probably work.


.

[Bruce Meyer]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Hm. What's the application for that line that you ordered?

Looks like you might be able to flatten the one bend and get around the other side of stat housing, but it might be too short?

That thing looks like it was done by hand. Who did that one come from?

.

I bought the pump and the fuel line from Ames. The catalog says these two go together and are correct for a 1970 GTO. I E-mailed Ames a pic last week. Still no response. I bought the motor mounts from Ames too. Sent them an E-mail about it. No response yet.

[HWYSTR455]

I think they use Fast Lines, but not sure.

They are usually pretty good about replies, and returns. In that respect, I've never had a problem with them.

I was looking at the stat housing in your pic, are those '70? That looks like an earlier housing unless I have it backwards?

Kind of doesn't matter, that line/pump wouldn't work with any of the housings. The bend at the top is too soon/before the housing and looks short. That's why I was kinda thinking it was for a shorter pump.



.

[Bruce Meyer]

I heard from customer service about the fuel line. Basically Im SOL. They told me to bend it in shape. So much for formed fuel lines. Looks like I will go with steel braided line. The motor mounts I modified so hopefully the motor will go in this weekend. I will take HWYSTR455 advice and force it if I have to.

[HWYSTR455]

Well that blows. No explanation either? Did you order it a while ago?

You could use the black covered hose and black AN fittings, might be less conspicuous?

I did some stuff in aluminum line, flared the ends for tube nuts, that's an inexpensive way and looks pretty good. You can paint of polish the line, and use black ends.

On the mount, just make sure the flat surface that faces the block is fully seated against the block. That's been the problem I've come across the most.



.

[Bruce Meyer]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Well that blows. No explanation either? Did you order it a while ago?

You could use the black covered hose and black AN fittings, might be less conspicuous?

I did some stuff in aluminum line, flared the ends for tube nuts, that's an inexpensive way and looks pretty good. You can paint of polish the line, and use black ends.

On the mount, just make sure the flat surface that faces the block is fully seated against the block. That's been the problem I've come across the most.



.

They were ordered last month. Their explanation was they will need to be bent into shape due to tolerances of fuel pump and all. Im not worried about the look of steel braided line. At least I know it will fit. LOL!. There were several issues I saw with the motor mounts that I hope I corrected. Very poorly designed to begin with.

[Bruce Meyer]

Finally got the motor in after a lot of prying, grinding and forcing. These Torque Loc mounts are really poorly designed. Im sorry I bought them but there are no really decent alternatives.

[HWYSTR455]

Sorry you had to go thru that, know it's frustrating.....

.

[Bruce Meyer]

Here is a pic of the AC Compressor. Its a Pro6ten that Ames sells. Ive used these on 2 other builds and they work great. They draw hardly any power from the engine compared to a factory A6. They are a lot lighter also. I run R12 in all the builds. You have to drain the oil out of the compressor and put in R12 compatible oil. The compressor bolts right up to the factory brackets.

[HWYSTR455]

Dang that looks great!


.

[roger1]

Just read thru the entire thread. Wow, impressive build! Incredible painting skills too. I chickened out on painting my car the original Liberty Blue because of it being metallic. Your Atoll Blue looks fantastic!

[Pepper Judge]

Originally Posted by Bruce Meyer

Finally got paint on it. I went with factory color Atoll Blue.

Originally Posted by Bruce Meyer

Just finished cutting and buffing the paint. I really like the paint I used. The brand is Ure-chem. I don't know why my pics are sideways.

Originally Posted by roger1

Your Atoll Blue looks fantastic!

Need some more progress photos of the body if assembled. Rotated your pictures Bruce to give your paint skills a better look!

[Bruce Meyer]

Here is what it looks like as of today. I put my 255-60-15 drag radials on the back to see how they fit. I like the look. Not sure on the red center caps on the rally 2,s. I think I will go with black center caps. I had the doors lined up pretty good until I put the motor in and took it off the jackstands. It moved the doors a bit. Will have to tweak them in a little better.

[Bruce Meyer]

I went ahead and fired the engine up before I put the front clip on to see if there were any problems with the engine. There was a problem. The valvetrain was clattering like crazy. At first I thought the lifters needed to pump up but the noise didn't go away so I shut it down. I pulled the valve covers and noticed the pushrods were hitting the pushrod holes in the head. My first thought that the PRW rockers were 1.65,s instead of 1.52 but the rockers were clearly marked 1.52.
I put a set of stock rockers on and problem solved. The pushrod cup in the PRW rockers is too close to the rocker stud causing pushrods to hit the head. I hope I didn't hurt the cam. It runs real good but I will have to wait and see.

[HWYSTR455]

Is it actually the hole closer or is it because the slot/fulcrum area is larger? Curious.

I know many have had issues with the roller-tip only rockers, be it PRW or Comp, maybe it's inherent?

Were the pushrod holes enlarged? Generally, I advise to enlarge the holes when the heads are off as SOP, to avoid problems like these, regardless of cam/rockers used. But it is what it is at this point.

Glad you figured it out and know how frustrating things like this can be.