[KEN CROCIE]

Tom s yes both. What show is mark coming out to see ?

[tom s]

He is coming out for the Seal Beach car show.Tom

[78w72]

Originally Posted by tom s

He is coming out for the Seal Beach car show.Tom

what & when is the seal beach car show?

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by 78w72

what & when is the seal beach car show?

https://sealbeachchamber.org/seal-be...-show-gallery/

[tom s]

will start another thread.Tom

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by steve25

A quick way to see if the noise is related more towards a rotational issue or recipercating issue is to warm the motor up so its noisy, then shut her down and either pull off all of the odd number or even number plug wires, then jack up the idle speed a good amount and restart the motor and see if the noise heard has changed.

If the motor had roational noise issues then the motor will sound the same when running as before the plugs where pulled.

That is an interesting technique I have never heard of or tried. Pretty hard to keep a V-8 running on 4-cylinders I would think. Going to have to try that sometime. Cool idea.

[KEN CROCIE]

I'm thinking it's wrist pin clearance + piston clearance. Piston clearance is partially SRP's fault. They give a range of clearances rather than a specific clearance as illustrated by Mick's Ross piston card.
A word about piston Alloys: 2618 does expand more than 4032 , but not much more. It's only 5-10%. The cold clearance vs running clearance has more to do with the contour (aka cam) of the piston than the alloy.
I was surprised that my recent set of 2618s required only .005" vs .008"-.010" for 2618s 30-40 years ago. Apparently a lot of research has been going on regarding piston "cam".

[KEN CROCIE]

There is an old time "save" for the pistons. It's called "Knurling". Check out an old timers engine shop to see if has the tool. Last build I saved with the knurler was the SD Iron Duke I built For PMD and Car Craft in '84.

[72LuxuryLeMansLa.]

Originally Posted by KEN CROCIE

I'm thinking it's wrist pin clearance + piston clearance. Piston clearance is partially SRP's fault. They give a range of clearances rather than a specific clearance as illustrated by Mick's Ross piston card.
A word about piston Alloys: 2618 does expand more than 4032 , but not much more. It's only 5-10%. The cold clearance vs running clearance has more to do with the contour (aka cam) of the piston than the alloy.
I was surprised that my recent set of 2618s required only .005" vs .008"-.010" for 2618s 30-40 years ago. Apparently a lot of research has been going on regarding piston "cam".

Ken,

Recognizing your experience and expertise, (I have neither) . If the problem was excessive clearance piston to wall, would there be tell tale signs on the piston/cylinder wall? If the excessive clearance is between the piston and wrist pin wouldn't there also be tell tale signs?
Mainly I'm asking if there is any way to tell where this noise is coming from without an autopsy and will the above mentioned senarios tell the tale?

[John Milner]

Sure sounds like there is an exhaust leak that might at least be responsible for some of the noise. Hopefully the noise nothing major. I have certainly ran forged TRW’s with .005 clearance that were quiet. Can’t comment on other brands though. Good luck.

[steve25]

If it's a Exh leak at the head to Exh Manifold flange then pulling off one plug wire at a time will greatly change the noise level being made and even make a slight difference in the noise level heard if it's due to a leak at the Heat riser shaft, or at the head pipe to Manifold coupling.

[TheGrudge]

Abe Fromen - sorry; I’ve been tempted to ask you for some time...
Are you the Abe Fromen, sausage king of Chicago?

[tom s]

Ken,pistons dont get more noisy when warm they get quiet!He said it is quiet cold and get noisy hot!Tom

[abefromen]

Originally Posted by tom s

Ken,pistons dont get more noisy when warm they get quiet!He said it is quiet cold and get noisy hot!Tom

Quiet-er but not completely quiet.

[dataway]

Let me diverge for a moment from the specific topic. I have a 2011 GMC truck, with the 5.3, aluminum heads, 80K miles, using 10-30w synthetic it's whole life. On a cold winter day, say 5-10 F, I get filter bypass squeal for about 2 seconds, and piston slap for about 5-10 seconds, and ... what actually sounds like a rod knock for about 1 second on a dead cold startup ... normal? Otherwise the engine runs like a top, purrs like a kitten at a saucer of milk.

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by dataway

Let me diverge for a moment from the specific topic. I have a 2011 GMC truck, with the 5.3, aluminum heads, 80K miles, using 10-30w synthetic it's whole life. On a cold winter day, say 5-10 F, I get filter bypass squeal for about 2 seconds, and piston slap for about 5-10 seconds, and ... what actually sounds like a rod knock for about 1 second on a dead cold startup ... normal? Otherwise the engine runs like a top, purrs like a kitten at a saucer of milk.

I would say normal, but that engine should use 5W30

[PunchT37]

Originally Posted by dataway

Let me diverge for a moment from the specific topic. I have a 2011 GMC truck, with the 5.3, aluminum heads, 80K miles, using 10-30w synthetic it's whole life. On a cold winter day, say 5-10 F, I get filter bypass squeal for about 2 seconds, and piston slap for about 5-10 seconds, and ... what actually sounds like a rod knock for about 1 second on a dead cold startup ... normal? Otherwise the engine runs like a top, purrs like a kitten at a saucer of milk.

Yeah. Drop it down to 5w30 in winter. Mine has had what sounds like a rod knock when cold since around 17,000 miles. Has 160,000 on it now. Runs fine. Does not burn a drop of oil. I have run top end cleaner in it a couple of times. The knock goes away for approx 5000 miles or so and slowly returns. It really doesn`t knock at all on startup in the summer. Engine has to be cold. I don`t worry about it now.

[dataway]

Next change I'll go to 5w30. Thanks guys.

[footjoy]

if I missed some thing let me know.

you have choices

1. Get the builder over to listen and look at it.

2. Get another professional to come over and listen to it to diagnose it.

3. Keep reading this thread and miss the whole summer.

There is a lot of good information in this thread but you will have to take action.

I have an engine with 2000 miles on it back at the machine shop. but mine was self inflicted.

Good Luck

Greg