[mrtonegto]

Beautiful! You're almost home......................

[michaelroy]

Dick, I can't believe you get anything done in that cluttered enviroment!
Don't know which looks nicer your car or your garage. Good Work. Looks like a NEW~64!
Mike

[Dick Boneske]

Thanks Mike. I know you're being sarcastic, but it's almost as though you've been talking to my wife. She can't understand the clutter. During the few hours it took to put the engine in, I stopped and put tools away three times. Every few days, I put all the aerosol spray cans away but they accumulate on the bench top. Isn't it amazing how this works?

And, nearly every time she enters the shop, my wife laments about the spots on the floor and how I need to keep it cleaner--or put an epoxy coating on it. Have you ever seen a shop where this was done after a few years of actual work in the shop? Not pretty!

But, if you think the shop is cluttered, you ought to see the upstairs where I keep extra parts.

[gto_ron]

Yeah, my garage attic is so full the center of the trusses are starting to sag and cracking the drywall joints in the ceiling. I could have had the builder use attic trusses in my garage but it would have cost ~$2K more so I passed on them; my budget was that tight. I wish now I had bit the bullet and got them. Hindsight IS always 20/20.

regards

Ron

[Dick Boneske]

Me, too! I should have had the builder use stronger trusses on shorter centers and higher ceilings and doors. As it is, I just need to keep intakes, heads, etc. out of the attic. No visible sag yet, after four years.

Same problem, when the estimate went past $20K, there was no extra for what I should have done. I got enough heat from my wife for spending as much as I did for the workshop (garage). Should have upgraded the kitchen first.

[Old Goat 67]

The only areas that are tight are where the starter wires pass between the manifold and engine block

Dick,
Shouldn't you have the wires going to the starter going around the front of the head and use the RA tube for them on the motor mount?

Charles

[Dick Boneske]

Yes, that's how Pontiac did it on the '67. I have had my wife's '64 with the same setup, however, for 17 years with no trouble. The standard "tube" for the wires fits in the gap with about 3/32" clearance. It's about the same distance the manifold flange (where the downpipes bolt on) clears the body of the starter.

I did use the '67 starter solenoid shield.

[ron cozzo]

Looking great Dick. I like the beam and chain fall. Awesome setup. My shop also has no load bearing in the ceiling. I've learned lots of things to do different next time.

[Dick Boneske]

Attic floor trusses not real strong, but I ran rods up to the roof joists so the "A" frame of the roof line adds a lot of strength.

Beam and come-a-long sure is handy for working on snowmobiles and pulling engines!!

[Dick Boneske]

The clutch and 4 speed linkage is in and adjusted. Still need to wire the backup light switch on the transmission. The harness from M&H is not quite long enough to reach the switch if I route it along the speedometer cable. The only way I believe it would be long enough is if I routed it under the carpet and through the shifter hole in the tunnel, but that's not "how they did it".

The chassis manual shows the clutch rod fitting engaged with the Z bar away from the engine. The alignment with the clutch fork is much straighter if the fitting is installed on the engine side of the z bar lever. Pictures below show what I mean.

Notice that I hooked the clutch return spring around one of the HO manifold studs. This locates the spring very well around the clutch rod and engine with ample clearance and will not interfere with the downpipe installation.

I plan to use exhaust system sealant on the downpipe flares where they meet the manifold flanges. Metal to metal may seal OK, but this should be a better guarantee. Will also use the sealant on the slip fittings for the whole exhaust. The system is a 2 1/2" Pypes with their quietest muffers, which, they say, will be slightly louder than the OEM system. I had to choose '72 splitters to accomodate the 2 1/2" tailpipes. I'm anxious to see how these look compared the the stock '64/'65 splitters.

[ron cozzo]

Looks great Dick. Thanks for the pictures of the clutch linkage, I'm working in that area now as well. I don't have an original clutch fork, so I think I'll need to use the 66 style return springs. I have the 64 style you used, but there's no way to get it around the fork like yours. I'm using HO manifolds also, but all repop clutch linkage parts.

[ron cozzo]

Dick, since you were just assembling your clutch linkage, I have a question. Do you understand what the spring circled in red in the picture below is supposed to do? I can't figure out what it should do or how it should be installed for the life of me.

[mrtonegto]

Pardon my budding in............ but that spring holds the seats against the ball stud.

It rides in a groove.................... been there.

Tone

[ron cozzo]

mrtonegto, not budding in at all, thanks for the reply. Hmmm, I don't recall any slot for that spring to snap into in the ball stud. I'm using repop parts, I'll have to take it apart again and look for a slot. Thanks.

[mrtonegto]

You can see it in the picture, on the very edge of the tube opening - not on ball stud.

[ron cozzo]

Ohhhhhhh, now I understand what you mean. It goes in the Z-bar. I'll check mine to see if it has the slot. Thanks.

[64woodwheel]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

I'm anxious to see how these look compared the the stock '64/'65 splitters.

Here is mine with 2-1/2 pypes and splitters

[mrtonegto]

What did you use to paint that rearend 64Woodwheel?

Is that a fresh repaint of the rearend or did the paint hold up that well?

Tone

[64woodwheel]

bought the 12 bolt that way. probably just chassis black.

[Dick Boneske]

Since the last pics, I bolted on the exhaust system & splitters. Today, Tripower is in place. Need to figure out the best way to paint the bolts without screwing up the rest of the manifold.