[Dick Boneske]

Body shop spent 40 hr on deck lid.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

I found some window sweeps that look exactly like OEM. A little pricey, but worth it to make the windows work right. I'll report on results. Maybe Ames needs to look at a better quality sweep. PUI is much too thick on the '64. Maybe the felt ones for '65 and later fit better. .

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321015987085...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Please do with pictures.

[tempest1964]

Dick, not trying to butt in on or hi-jack your thread. Just wanted to add this for the good of the group. Just spoke to Amy at weatherstrip-specialists about their window sweeps. They also have sweeps in the same excellent quality for 1964-65 post cars.
Tony

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by Dick Boneske

Body shop spent 40 hr on deck lid.

I have been doing Autobody repair since '76 and self employed for the last 30 years...if I charged someone 40 hours for a deck lid repair ,they would shoot me. I hoped they exhausted finding some southern sheet metal. I have had rust free parts shipped from Texas and Alabama and Arizona...just my .02 cents.

[Dick Boneske]

Yes, my advice to others restoring old cars is to spend the extra money on rust-free sheet metal. It's amazing but obvious how the hours add up as each area of rust repair is being done.

I did get some "rust -free" doors, but the lower seam was rusted to the point of needing lower door patches after all--and the result is about 15 extra hours per door. The shop has more than 40 hours in the hood, also, due to very bad repairs and A LOT of Bondo from the previous owner in the '80's. Since you can't find a decent '64 GTO hood for less than $2,500, I told the shop to fix the old one. I don't know how you avoid this huge cost. Rust-free parts are at a premium, especially for '64 A bodies.

In any case, here is where we are today.

[Dick Boneske]

You'll see the car if you go to the Pontiac, IL show September17,18. That little town, FWIW, is a must-see, along with the Pontiac Museum.

[tempest1964]

Car is looking great! Can't wait to see it finished.

[G20]

"Also need to paint PONTIAC in gas door white. Need to wait for a day of extreme patience for that, however."

I just repainted the "Pontiac" in my rear section. I tried using a tiny brush, but it looked terrible every time I tried it.

I went to an art supply store and found a plastic syringe with a very pointy end to it. I thinned out my paint a tiny bit and filled the syringe up.

I used the syringe to trace the outer edges of the letters and the paint flowed into the low spots perfectly. The edges were very crisp. I didn't have to do any cleaning up of the edges at all.

Good luck.

[G20]

"Also need to paint PONTIAC in gas door white. Need to wait for a day of extreme patience for that, however."

I just repainted the "Pontiac" in my rear section. I tried using a tiny brush, but it looked terrible every time I tried it.

I went to an art supply store and found a plastic syringe with a very pointy end to it. I thinned out my paint a tiny bit and filled the syringe up.

I used the syringe to trace the outer edges of the letters and the paint flowed into the low spots perfectly. The edges were very crisp. I didn't have to do any cleaning up of the edges at all.

Good luck.
__________________
'64 GTO
Marimba Red, 389 Tri-power car.
http://www.northwestlegends.com/

[Dick Boneske]

Also did mine with thinned-out white paint. Here's the result.

[Dick Boneske]

I posted this in the Body Shop TECH forum also, but no one has responded. Do any of you have experience with this vent window issue?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I installed the Soft-Seal rubber on the vent window frame. After re-installing the window, the top was out of position by so much it wouldn't close.

The only thing that looked out of kilter was the top swivel pin that fits into the vent window frame. It appeared to be bent slightly, forcing the window rearward. I was able to bend it back by putting pressure on the window. Now the vent window will close, but needs more movement in the forward direction on top-you can still see light through the top portion of the seal.

I have no idea how the swivel pin got bent, but that's the only thing that would change the position of the window in the frame.

Should I bend the pin more to get the vent window into the correct position or is there another way?

[Dick Boneske]

I have a good tip for all of you! When you take your window regulators out of the doors, mark them correctly, Left and Right!! The one pictured in the left door is the right side regulator and the second picture regulator marked "RS" is the left regulator.

I spent the entire afternoon installing the left side vent window and side window, along with the regulator marked "L" and the other parts. After a few hours of struggling, I determined that the regulator was marked incorrectly--the result being the window would not roll up more than half-way. What tipped me off to the problem was that the window rolled up much harder than it rolled down.

Tomorrow, I'll put the correct regulator in place and have a large smile. My wife helped me hold the side window in place so we could get the rollers in the track. She doesn't see how I could have marked the regulators wrong--neither do I!

Regarding the vent window seal, I further bent the top hinge pin so the vent window sets straight with the frame--and now seals better----can't see any light around the perimeter.

[Tom Vaught]

Always something new to be learned. Good Job Dick!

Tom V.

[Dick Boneske]

Got the driver's side regulator in place and window operates great after rough adjustment!! However, a few questions. The vent window frame installed in the door is not seated against the front sheet metal of the door. I cannot get the vent window frame to move forward inside the door to close the gap. This is part of the problem.

Also, the whole door needs to move back about 1/8". The gap between the rear edge of the door and the quarter panel is too wide. The body shop installed both left and right doors, but both are too far forward. I've tried moving the hinges, but it appears the bottom hinge is at the rear limit of adjustment. Top hinge is no problem to adjust. Any tips on this one?

[MUSLCAH]

loosen hinge to door and slide a thin shim in....

[Dick Boneske]

It's either that or elongate the bolt holes that hold the hinge to the body. I wonder if the repro hinges cause that problem. The top original aluminum hinge has plenty of adjustment to the rear available.

I wish there was a way to remove the bottom hinge without pulling the door off the car. The body manual warns not to do this or the aluminum top hinge may break.

[MUSLCAH]

I still don't understand why some body shops don't spend the time to get the car to "fit". This process is to be done "BEFORE" any top coat is applied.....Just not professional IMHO. But now it has to be fixed without any damage to the panels. Apply tape to leading edges and pay attention to say the least.Yup elongate or shim. These cars of the day used shims by the bus load....specs are not like today's cars.

[War eagle]

I had the same problem with mine and unless a large shim that profiled the hinge strap were made, I would not use one. The small shims for fenders etc. make for a wobbly mess. I used original hinges from another car and for what ever reason did not work as the original. At the time the fab company I work for produced about 300 pairs of the correct 1964 "A" body lower hinge automatic close door components as found on the Tempest etc.
I made sure I had a helper and found a good 2x4 that I wrapped with an old bath towel. Place the 2x4 under the rear edge of the inner door panel(furthest from hinge). The door should be open just enough for the jack and block to clear. I would have the wheels blocked as well to prevent roll. As you jack up the rear of the door, your assistant must stop the door from trying to open as the block may try and roll. Basically you are bending the hinge mounting area of the door. The upper hinge will then need to be loosened and the top of the back edge of door lowered to meet body lines. Keep an eye on the fender to door area as not to over lift into the fender. If you can`t lift enough without hitting the fender, then loosen the top hinge and drop the back of the door and retighten the top hinges. Repeat lift.

[Dick Boneske]

Thanks for the feedback. The procedure sounds like it will work. I guess the best way would be to use the padded 2x4, jack the rear end of the door and keep checking to see when the hinge mounting pad bends the right amount to allow adjustment to the body lines.

Sounds risky, but should be OK if careful---i.e. padding the rocker panel in case the jack moves toward the car, blocking the jack to keep it in place, etc.

[War eagle]

Dick I have actually done this several times before and never had a problem. The extra set of hands and watching the fender to door as you lift is the key here. Tape the corners and I remove the striker bolt until the body lines are achieved. You`ll be fine.