About Us

racerboy · 07-01-2005, 10:06 AM

I am removing the four-tube headers and exhaust system from my ’70 T/A and replacing it with a set or R.A.R.E. RA manifolds and the new PYPES cross-flow system (if it ever gets here). I also ordered a set of stock battery cables. Is there a battery cable shield used in the Ram Air F-bodies? I know my 67 HO GTO has a shield, as does my 70 Judge.

Should I also put a hi-torque starter in it? I want the 100% stock look.

Dirty70Bird · 07-01-2005, 10:41 AM

well, I can't speak to the ram air cars, but my 70 bird had one with the stock log manifolds and a 350 (Esprit Car). I still got this part somewhere in my parts pile if your interested in a pic. I would guess this part would not change if it was a Ram Air car.

Jeff R · 07-01-2005, 10:50 AM

As far as I'm aware, RA F-bodies had an insulator tube as well. I don't know how correct it is, but I got the 4" version from Year One. The part number from last year's catalog is TB20, Battery Cable Insulator. I don't have RA manifolds, but my headers were baking the insulation off my positive cable.

racerboy · 07-01-2005, 10:52 AM

Thanks DirtyBird,
There is a space between the manifold and the head that allowed the cable shield to be bolted to the manifold. There is no such space on RA cars. The RA heat shiled is actually attached to the motor mount (at least on my 67 GTO HO car) and the starter cable runs through it. I just wasn't sure if that was the same for a 1970 F-body with a RA motor.

Formulabruce · 07-01-2005, 05:43 PM

there is no space for the sheild, that is correct. the sheild was mounted near the motor mount and cable went down under stearing box and through it with the wires from on top motor over the front and down. I have pics of mine. I had researched this for a while and I can ask a friend again, but I recall him saying that and it seemed fine on mine and looks and works well

racerboy · 07-03-2005, 05:21 PM

Formulabruce,
Can you post a picture of yours? Also, was yours an orignal or repro? I need to get a tube soon, as I am about to install a set of R.A.R.E Ram Air manifolds on my RA III motor.

Formulabruce · 07-03-2005, 09:44 PM

Seems all my pics, the smallest of which are 1.2 meg are way to big for here, my motor is out atm, so maybe i can try to downsize a pic somehow. I see these big pics and wonder how its done,Bruce

schneidsd455 · 07-03-2005, 11:57 PM

Open the picture on your computer. If you are using Microsoft photo editor, click on "Image" menu, and then choose "Resize." You will then see a little screen that shows the size of the picture in inches. Adjust down to around 45-50%, and click "OK." Then, right click on the picture, select "Properties" and then see how big it is. My pics usually start out around 1.2M. Resizing to 45-50% usually gets 'em down small enough so that you can post. Don't forget to "Save As" before closing the picture.

Jeff R · 07-06-2005, 10:02 PM

You should be able to post decent-sized images like schneidsd455 said. Resizing down to 800 or 600 pixels width will usually get you close to the limit but just over. Lower your jpeg compression (usually 85% is default) down to 70%, then resave the image. It should be within the limit and still clear enough to show good detail. If all else fails, go to Photobucket.com, set up an account(it's free) and upload your photos there. They will be automatically resized as you upload them ,and you can just hotlink them using the "Display Image" icon when you post. Hope this helps.

Held for Ransom · 07-13-2005, 06:58 PM

I remembered this post when I was out in the garage and saw my spare engine ('70 YZ). And snapped a picture. As you can see, it has no tube, just clips and an insulated cable.

racerboy · 07-13-2005, 07:08 PM

Thanks HFR!

Do you know if anybody repos the clip that attaches to the rear motor mount bolt?

Held for Ransom · 07-13-2005, 07:26 PM

No, I don't. But, I think the clips are the same, front and back. Just the front one is smashed in and the cable is not in the clip on the back.

racerboy · 07-14-2005, 09:58 AM

HFR,
Any idea of the size of that wire insulation? I want to order a battery cables and the loom is old separately (1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 5/8"). I'm guessing it is either 1/2 or 5/8.

Held for Ransom · 07-14-2005, 04:39 PM

I'm out there tonight. I will check.

Held for Ransom · 07-14-2005, 06:17 PM

Frank, looks like .590" OD. I guess, take your pick.

racerboy · 07-18-2005, 04:26 PM

Held For Ransom,
Amazingly enough, my car still has one of the clips on the motor mount. Now I just need to find the rear one. Do you think I should put the other wires in a loom, or just leave them taped up the way they are on your block?

Frank

racerboy · 07-18-2005, 04:28 PM

HFR (or anyone else)
Was this tube used on a ’70 T/A? If not?, did the positive cable just snake down to the first clip on the front of the motor mount?

Frank

racerboy · 07-18-2005, 04:28 PM

Another shot...

racerboy · 07-18-2005, 04:32 PM

Last battery cable question (for now).

When this motor was rebuilt, someone used ARP head bolts that did not have the stud provision for mounting the negative battery cable. Is there any risk in blowing a head gasket if I remove this head bolt (arrow) and put the correct one in with the stud? I think the battery cable is supposed to go to the first head bolt (maybe the second)?

Held for Ransom · 07-18-2005, 07:10 PM

I would think taped up would be just fine.
That's a cute little tube you have there. But, I don't believe it was used. I thought the cable was attached to the subframe up front and went back from there (I believe the TA scoops' drain tube was in the way for a battery cable tube).
The negative cable does attach to the first (front), and the heat riser shroud attaches to the second and fourth, on the bottom row of bolts.

Menu

About Us