[Chief of the 60's]

Originally Posted by dhutton

You are a piece of work. It’s a shame they let you back on the forum. Sad day for many....

I’m guessing you’ve never learned a thing from anyone because you knew it all at birth.

Troll on...

Don

Irony right there ^ ^ ^

Sorry if you cannot handle being corrected but when you are not 100% correct you should just buck up and accept it. That is how people learn things. That is unless they feel they know it all.

Troll on...

[Chief of the 60's]

I find it very amusing that when you are challenged you always resort to name calling and "troll" is always your go to word. You must have been a real spoiled brat growing up.

Now, getting back to the topic.....

Anytime you beat metal on a hard surface such as a dolly you thin that area, essentially moving or stretching the metal in that area. When you move the metal you are taking it from that area and moving it outward causing excess metal or warping to the outer areas. Excessive heat from welding will warp metal but heat is also how you bring it back as metal has memory. You do not use a cutting torch to heat the metal, you use a low oxygen flame such as a bud tip or for narrow areas, as in the OP's situation, a pencil flame like from a small brazing tip. Heating one side and applying a cold wet rag to the other restores the memory of the metal and takes the warp out.

If all is done well, some grinding and very minor filling is all that is needed.

Troll on....

[n20ta2]

I have used heat to restore shape and it definetly works if you know what your doing , I do like the shrinking disc as well. A little faster and I think it's a little more user friendly for the novice, you can place the heat wherever you need it and quench just like the flame.

[JSchmitz]

Learned shrinking techniques in autobody class for an old school teacher. Heating an area and quenching definitely shrinks the area. Generally used when you can't access both sides of the panel (Like a hood). If you have a dent, or oil can, you heat the center and quench it. Gotta be careful that you don't heat it too much or you will harden the metal when you quench it. The shrinking disc is the same thing. Only you're generating the heat with friction instead of a flame. Much more even and controllable. If you can access both sides you can use a flat hammer and shrinking dolly or a flat dolly and a shrinking hammer. Hammer out the dent and then shrink around it.

[Greg Reid]

I really think you guys are talking about two different things. Planishing the weld bead itself is different than shrinking the metal around the bead.

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

[n20ta2]

Right, when welding planishing is important to flatten the 2 panels where they meet as they tend to roll inward. Minor weld warping accuring further away from the weld seam is what I'm thinking the OP is referring too.

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

I really think you guys are talking about two different things. Planishing the weld bead itself is different than shrinking the metal around the bead.

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

Planishing is stretching and flattening.

[JUDGE3]

The hammer and dolly planish is the ticket. it flattened it out well enough for me being a non expert. some further heat and quench after planish may have been beneficial but that would really take experience seems to me. to leery to go there. even the hammer and dolly is a skill. I got ever so slightly off a few times and was awarded a small dent. liked learning it though. pic with scale shows pass side warps, same area drivers zero. need more patience!

huge tip to learners.....don't get excited and think you can beat the process going to quick. pass side I struggled only due to the fun of it and goin to quick. forced patience on the drivers side and it actually is very nice and didn't hardly need a thing. also carefull grinding of the welds and re-welding spots and grinding very carefully leads to not needing much filler. go slow enough and u probably won't even need much planishing.

very pleased with the results and I very much appreciated the replies. every time I perform a first time process and learn I think...….Dang, next time I can
ace this!

[JUDGE3]

glad those crusty quarters are gone.

[Shiny]

Nice! You learn fast!

You must be really happy with that outcome! Congrats on taking that on and making it work.

[mrennie]

Excellent work!

[JSchmitz]

Originally Posted by JUDGE3

The hammer and dolly planish is the ticket. it flattened it out well enough for me being a non expert. some further heat and quench after planish may have been beneficial but that would really take experience seems to me. to leery to go there. even the hammer and dolly is a skill. I got ever so slightly off a few times and was awarded a small dent. liked learning it though. pic with scale shows pass side warps, same area drivers zero. need more patience!

huge tip to learners.....don't get excited and think you can beat the process going to quick. pass side I struggled only due to the fun of it and goin to quick. forced patience on the drivers side and it actually is very nice and didn't hardly need a thing. also carefull grinding of the welds and re-welding spots and grinding very carefully leads to not needing much filler. go slow enough and u probably won't even need much planishing.

very pleased with the results and I very much appreciated the replies. every time I perform a first time process and learn I think...….Dang, next time I can
ace this!

Nice job!

[JUDGE3]

Thank you all for the nice compliments! makes me feel good about how I'm doing.

here's a couple fun pics I just came back across. 10 yrs ago my 69 judge clone project. man this car turned out to have a ton of filler on it. wonder I got it to come out as good as it did. so I just got my mig welder, came across these pull holes from the old school way they did it back then. I thought...…"hey i'll weld those closed" and felt like a hero doing it ha. not knowing I was warping the heck out of it and creating more issues. also caught the undercoating on the inside of the door on fire. learned a lot lol.

did it all myself, painted it in my attached garage, got a tiny spider in the paint on the drivers fender. when u looked close u could see the legs all spread flat lol, couldn't get it out was to late and I left it. raced it and had a blast.

I should have re-skinned the door! I know now re-skinning is an easy do yourself thing but then it wasn't even in my thoughts to take that on. man, always made the mistake of thinking it was beyond my skill learning abilities.

young guys learning...…..do it yourself! learn it, its not that hard. go through the first time and make the mistakes you'll be glad you did and you'll be able to afford the hobby to boot. shops get silly money in my view. and the satisfaction of diy is terrific. (your buddies will be knocking at your door!)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-U_oxnAZaoE

[JSchmitz]

I took two semesters of autobody night school. What I learned is that I need to pay someone else to do this.