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#21
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X3. Been running Rotella in all my flat-tappet cars since 2006 with zero issues. When I re-sealed the 400 in my '67 GTO after almost 90,000 miles of service, the bearings and internals all looked like new.
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Jeff |
#22
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yeah hes got some good real world tests. my favorite is where walmarts supertech synthetic beats redline synthetic at cold pour tests & does very close to it at all other wear & heat tests.
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#23
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I've used the Walmart Supertech full synthetic in my later model Toyota 4x4 trucks for years. Excellent stuff, low price. In the tests I've read, it rates right up there with Mobil 1 for a lot less $$$.
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Jeff |
#24
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For flat tappet cams I just use Nunzi Ramanos recommend.He said use a good dyno oil,bottle of EOS and 1/2 bottle of STP.After breakin I use a 1/2 bottle of EOS and 1/2 bottle of STP.FWIW,Tom
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#25
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Quote:
Mobil 1 specifically recommends their 15W50 oil (bottom of page 3 on your link) for flat tappet cams. Their 0W40 oil (bottom of page 2 on your link) has nearly the same levels of ZDDP. I've been running Mobil 1 15W50 in my GTO for 6 years (when we put the 462 in) and the 0W40 in my wife's Camaro for about 15 years. To the original poster - you say you like Mobil 1 oil - why not use their products designed for flat tappet cams? |
#26
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I gotta be honest ... I didn't know Mobil One made products for HFT cams. I will definitely look into that. I'm a big fan of their products ... only time I deviated was on air cooled racing motorcycles ... after a race at 12,000 rpm it would come out looking like differential oil, Red Line was the only thing that would work in those conditions. Oil in the sump was probably 350 degrees so ... well not many oils survive in those conditions. I don't know how high it was in the cylinderhead .... don't really want to know
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#27
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There was a long thread on this, and in it there was a link to a big test on just this. It measured the amount of 'slipperiness". And those zinc additives consistently made it worse. Lucas came out very well as Amsoil. ZR1 was up there too. Maybe someone could bring it back up.
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#28
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I ran Rotella T (non-synthetic) in my firebird for years, first few oil changes are dark because of the cleaning agents in diesel oils. When I took the top end apart it was very clean, no wear, everything looked great. Then Rotella started removing some of the zinc (change name to T4) and I looked at other oils, at the time with the "inter web" data I concluded I would use Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W30, this had 1400 ppm zinc and a high phosphate level. The Rotella T4 has 1100 ppm zinc. Is it better worse or other? Does that difference in zinc make a difference? I suspect not. Most guys I know run the Rotella in dirtbike as I do, and we beat the snot into the oil, it works fine but is changed often. IMO both Rotella and VR1 is fine, advantage Rotella for being less costly.
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#29
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http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...**Good-read***
Quote:
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#30
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Quote:
Sometimes you can get the MDS from the companies website, but they often protect their secret sauce.
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1967 Firebird 462 580hp/590ftlbs 1962 Pontiac Catalina Safari Swapped in Turd of an Olds 455 Owner/Creator Catfish Motorsports https://www.youtube.com/@CatfishMotorsports |
#31
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That's what I like about Mobil 1 - they have kept updating their info and making it easily available to the public for at least the last 6 years that I know of.
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#32
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Mobil 1, is it really any different than Wall Mart full synthetic ? Doubt it. I seen some test on U Tube that it compares favorably.
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#33
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I think that list is great. Tells you far more than anything on this thread. The best oil for street use is the Valvoline 10-30 Silver bottle. Amsoil 10-30 Z Rod is up there.
That 15-40 Dello is better than a lot of big name oils, including Rotella. The best racing only oil is far and away the Lucas 10-30 racing synthetic. Much more zinc than anything else. By "racing only". Is that like one full season ? 15-20 races worth ? |
#34
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Typically in the past "racing" oils omit some additives for longevity like anti corrosion because its assumed it won't be in service long enough to matter
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A man who falls for everything stands for nothing. |
#35
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71 GTO, 463, KRE 295 cfm heads ported by SD Performance, RPM intake, Qjet, Dougs Headers, Comp cams HR 246/252 ...11 to 1 , 3.55 cogs, 3985lbs.....day three- 11.04 at 120mph ....1.53 60', 6.98 1/8 mile |
#36
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I’ve tried reading some of 540Rats’ blog but it looks like a cross between something that the unibomber and David Vizard would have come up with.
After he explains in great detail how he’s the smartest human on the planet, he lists results he refuses to explain on a rig that no one has ever seen. His reasoning is basically it’s over everyones’ head and you wouldn’t understand it anyway. I’d be much more interested in how his favorites fare in a running engine that is exposed to contaminants from blow-by,moisture, fuel,etc. for thousands of miles instead of a single wear test on a fresh sample. According to his results Valvoline High Milage mineral oil is superior to Brad Penn in every way. Maybe it is, who wants to be the gunea pig on their built up Pontiac engine?
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68 GTO,3860# Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s 13.86 @ 100 Old combo: 462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's. 1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH New combo: 517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's 636HP/654TQ 1.452 10.603 @ 125.09 http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html |
#37
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Quote:
I'm familiar with Warren Oil as they also packaged the Pronto oil that I used to sell when I worked for an ACDelco warehouse distributor. We handled ACDelco, MotorCraft, Mobil and Mobil 1, Shell Rotella and Pronto oils. |
#38
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Quote:
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71 GTO, 463, KRE 295 cfm heads ported by SD Performance, RPM intake, Qjet, Dougs Headers, Comp cams HR 246/252 ...11 to 1 , 3.55 cogs, 3985lbs.....day three- 11.04 at 120mph ....1.53 60', 6.98 1/8 mile |
#39
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On flat tappet cams, I use the "Hot Rod" series (HR-X) Driven oils, that CompCams now sells.
https://www.compcams.com/products/lu...gine-oils.html
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'73 T/A (clone). Low budget stock headed 8.3:1 455, 222/242 116lsa .443/.435 cam. FAST Sportsman EFI, 315rwhp/385rwtq on 87 octane. 13.12 @103.2, 1.91 60'. '67 Firebird [sold], ; 11.27 @ 119.61, 7.167 @ 96.07, with UD 280/280 (108LSA/ 109 ICL)solid cam. [1.537, 7.233 @93.61, 11.46 @ 115.4 w/ old UD 288/296 108 hydraulic cam] Feb '05 HPP, home-ported "16" D-ports, dished pistons (pump gas only), 3.42 gears, 275/60 DR's, 750DP, T2, full exhaust My webpage http://lnlpd.com/home |
#40
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It is interesting info and he might be on to something but no one will know for sure until he shows his procedure and answers some questions. If the way he is loading the oil is similar to how it’s loaded under pressure at the bearings, cylinder walls, camshaft,etc. it would be a valid test on engine wear. All it proves now is that some oils test higher for his definition of wear protection than others when run through his equipment. How that relates to an actual running engine is anyone’s guess.
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68 GTO,3860# Stock Original 400/M-20 Muncie,3.55’s 13.86 @ 100 Old combo: 462 10.75 CR,,SD 330CFM Round Port E's,Old Faithful cam,Jim Hand Continental,3.42's. 1968 Pontiac GTO : 11.114 @ 120.130 MPH New combo: 517 MR-1,10.8 CR,SD 350CFM E's,QFT 950/Northwind,246/252 HR,9.5” 4000 stall,3.42's 636HP/654TQ 1.452 10.603 @ 125.09 http://www.dragtimes.com/Pontiac-GTO...lip-31594.html |
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