#21  
Old 12-08-2019, 11:05 PM
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Found the wand, tried the washer - engine ran after cleaning out the carb but I suspect the pump is shot after sitting 3-4 years unused.

Trying to decide if purchasing another washer is warranted down here.

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Old 12-08-2019, 11:23 PM
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Sounds like you need it to strip the gunk. Must be frustrating to have it not working.

I don't miss stripping the algae off the driveway and retaining walls yet but have used mine about 3 times this summer for other stuff that would have been a bear without it. If it broke, I would miss it.

  #23  
Old 12-09-2019, 01:31 AM
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yes, it is - my neighbor lent me his washer, will get it done tomorrow and get it back to him quick. I note now they sell the pumps for around $80 - for that amount it would be a good idea to repair it.

Unlike my old house in Seattle, algae is no longer an issue here in ABQ!

  #24  
Old 12-13-2019, 12:18 AM
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Hauling the tub to be examined.



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Old 12-13-2019, 01:25 AM
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Looks like a big milestone. You gotta be happy with your trailer. Looks slick!

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Old 12-29-2019, 09:23 PM
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Shiny, I hauled it down 30 miles to the painter in a town called Belen.
People here in NM drive as if possessed on the freeway - I am doing 65 and 3 times wondered if Hagerty was going to use the legal meat axe on guys roaring up on me. Scenery was nice though, miles and miles of ****ing desert!



Luckily , I arrived at the painters with the tub and the fenders. What he will do is do the bodywork and paint the jambs - I will get the stuff back and partially assemble so he can spray it in one go so all the panel match.



Right fender caused a bit of discussion: holes were a bit different thean the left side and were missing the plastic screw catcher for the rocker trim. Mnnh. I wonder if it was a factry thing - this car was a very late 71 build, may have run out of RH Sport fenders...
holes were drilled instead of punched. RH fender may also have been hit, though front nose piece is correct molded plastic (really fragile) piece but with 72 grilles.

Next day more stuff removed. Engine was plucked and set off to the side;



...and other things pulled off the frame. Rotor rems (we make hubs sometimes from rotors) were placed on frame as when diff was removed the front end wanted to fall off!



Should work a short day tomorrow so I can pull the rest off the frame and run it over to a shop to be sand blasted. Will inspect and reweld some areas then send it back for power coating.
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  #27  
Old 12-29-2019, 10:56 PM
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Glad you made it in spite of the death-wish road gladiators. Same deal around here.

Is the painter going to keep it on your trailer? Seems a good platform for him and may have been part of the plan when you built it.

Frame looks really clean in photos! Car will be beyond a jewel soon. Hard to believe it spent time in Seattle without developing a little more surface rust.. nice!

  #28  
Old 12-29-2019, 11:42 PM
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Yes, he liked it a lot - the height is easier to work on and quite easy to push about.

Seattle very rarely uses salt. they prefer sand. Believe it or not, city of Seattle forbids salt as it will wash into Puget Sound - a salt water body - and pollute it.

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Old 12-30-2019, 01:04 AM
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Most likely, the rh fender was once a new replacement. Have just such a new (purchased in late '72) GM '71-72 LeMans fender which does not have the rect hole for the plastic bushing. '71 6cyl & V8 equipped 233 series did not come with rocker trim, standard, it was an option, thus with a replacement fender, bodyshop help had to either properly cut a slot & install the white plastic bushing, or rig it.

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  #30  
Old 12-31-2019, 05:40 PM
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Time to haul the frame off for stripping first and later powder coating. Spent a hour googling common areas for cracks on these frames.

Loading it up:



Regular cab long beds are kinda dated nowadays, but they come in handy. I loaded it rear first - it cleared the wheel tubs perfectly. I was overthinking this, using dunnage or a Pontiac brother's flat bed trailer :



A few tie downs and a red flag and we hit the road. Of course this being ABQ I had some dolt tailgating me on the freeway - the frame would have gone right over her Hyundai's hood straight thru the windscreen.

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  #31  
Old 12-31-2019, 05:47 PM
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Time for an open car trailer, even if have to borrow one.

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  #32  
Old 12-31-2019, 07:06 PM
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I have one I can borrow anytime - why though? this was easier to load, drive and unload.

You just want me to get tow mirrors.

  #33  
Old 01-03-2020, 11:33 PM
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Time to work on the fenders. I measured several times the set of extractors from Petegto (thanks Pete!) and decided to go for it mounting them.

I will not be able to replicate the inner ledge they sit in - but they can mount on the surface.

First off, made a simple paper pattern:



Bolt on then spot weld a backing piece of steel so the fender won't ripple on the cutout.



Plasma out the hole then tack weld more and carefully grind opening to fit.



The extractor is held in place on the leading edge by the thickness of the metal - I will use the metal brace to mount the screen.
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  #34  
Old 01-04-2020, 11:19 PM
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Other fender. Close examination reveals a couple of things; mainly the both fenders are replacements - driver side was a dealer unit as it still had the sticker (?). 3 small emblem holes were brazed up and beltline trim holes were bondoed up too.





Evidently some sort of damage at one time...
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  #35  
Old 01-14-2020, 06:51 PM
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Got the frame back from the powder coaters, they sandblasted it and will coat it later. I examined the frame carefully for cracks. I did not the front frame horns have been reworked - evidently the car was crunched in the nose quite early on in it's life.The rest looks pretty cherry.

Special attention was given to the trailing control arm mounts - these have been known to tear off. It seems they have a hole in them for more welding - maybe a later factory improvement if the early units did not have them?



I fabbed and welded in a gusset for the rear shock, along with cutting a pair of small square holes to allow the insertion of nut clips.



Another area of interest was this surface weld just aft of the forward torque box - it is on both sides.



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  #36  
Old 01-22-2020, 09:49 AM
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Nice project, will follow!

Yeah, that looks like it took a hit, was probably put on a frame rack, and the damaged areas heated while being pulled. Probably was a 'fold', and they heated it til it pulled apart, and dropped a bead over top of it. Just guessing tho.

I say 18s, Bandits. I've had 15s, 16s, 17s, and now 18s, and personally, the 18s are what I like best. The tire selection is much better, that's for sure.

Here's a shot of my 71 LeMans Sport hardtop, originally a 350/350 2bbl A/C car. I like the valance chrome, I vote keep it, but it's obviously a personal preference. Anyway, that's a pic with 17s. And the GTO shot is with 18 bandits. (Sorry I don't have a good side shot yet)

I added out the valance exhaust, think that was a good choice. I just did a Pypes 2.5" out the valance, and the trick is to make sure you use the correct brackets/clamps, the kit doesn't come with them, the valance kit comes with the non-valance exhaust hangers. With the correct hangers/brackets, the tips are even and centered as they should be.

If you need any clips, pics, etc, even tho it's a hard top, I've had the thing down to nothing like you, so have some reference stuff and maybe even items you might have a hard time finding.

.

.
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  #37  
Old 01-22-2020, 06:33 PM
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I am mulling the wheels - Summit sez they are 28 pounds each (yikes!)

My vintage Centerlines are maybe 11... but 15"

Those welds were aft of the torque box -- I would love to see if other A's have this weld.
The horns were pretty wavy forward of the steering box/idler arm areas.

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Old 01-23-2020, 08:35 AM
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I can't see how they are that much, I suspect they are going off shipping weight, which includes the heavily padded box and stuff. I can weight one with a tire on it when I get home if you'd like, and give you tire info of what I'm running. The manufacturer would list actual tire weight, could just do the math then.

Yeah, I had my frame out, I would have recalled that external weld, I went over it pretty well checking it before powder coating. I purchased my car from the 2nd owner, with 68k miles, and it only had one small shot in the body, pass side behind the door in the quarter, original owner was in a fender-bender. But not sure if it would be something specific with a convertible frame or not, mine is obviously a hard top frame. (EDIT: That fender-bender had no damage to the frame)

Now wavy in front of the steering box may be normal, I will look at that too when I get home. When they stamp the frame, because of the recess for the box, I believe there is a bit of waviness in that area. I dunno, maybe from cooling, or just due to the number of turns/bends?

Think there's pics of the frame on my build thread?

I will look later...

.

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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
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https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #39  
Old 01-23-2020, 08:43 AM
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Ok, is this where you mean? In the attach pic? The waviness? Pretty sure that's normal...

EDIT: There's a lot going on there along that multi-bend, that one hole is also tapered to add strength.
.
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1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2
http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624
1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car
https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger
Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be
  #40  
Old 01-23-2020, 12:46 PM
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Yes, that is the distortion I was referring to. The frame horns also had hand cut holes for the bumper brackets. I will be picking up the frame Friday so can send comparison pix.

I would like to see the weight with tires - apples/apples comparison to the Centerlines with tires.

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