[jcruz]

You can see a pic of my applicator at....

http://members.cox.net/jcreuziger/Applicator.JPG

Hope it helps!

John

1969 Firebird resto...doing my part to keep PY profitable....

[400 4spd.]

When they make an adhesive that will hold a roll cage together, I will trust it. Until then, I will always have a mig welder suntan. That's all I got to say about that..

Just hanging around...

[Brian '74]

The place that was ordering the adhesive for me for the last few weeks, finally got it in. I went in to get something else and they handed the tube and gun to be. Then they told me the total, $145!!! I told them that I would be back and found a Sherwin Williams auto store in the town I work in. Sold me the tube for $27!! The gun, if I wanted it was $59. I decided to do what stevek did, RIG IT!! Gonna try it out Sunday.

http://www.68firebird.net

[jcruz]

Brian,

I hope you can successfully rig this together and save a few bucks!

The only thing I suggest is to make sure you're getting equal parts of the 2-part adhesive. Also, it has to be properly mixed -- my applicator gun used long, special mixing tubes that ensured the 2 parts would be mixed together proportionally by the time it came out the end.

John

1969 Firebird resto...doing my part to keep PY profitable....

[Brian '74]

John,
Looks like an easy rig job w/ a regular caulking gun. I also bought a pack of extra mixing tips (12 extra) for $10. Didn't know if I would need that many, but the price was right!!! I am going to prep the car tomorrow night and try the adhesive on Sunday. Have to get to Paul's event at Atco on Saturday!!!

Brian

http://www.68firebird.net

[rand68]

Anyone tried this on a large area yet? Like a full rear quarter? At home?

[jcruz]

Rand68,

I replaced partial, not full quarters. I can't imagine why it wouldn't work, as long as you also spot weld critical support areas -- like where the panel goes against the bumper brackets.

My .02

John

1969 Firebird resto...doing my part to keep PY profitable....

[Marty Phipps]

I'm seeing more and more shops using the full panel replacement, using metal bonding adhesive.
They are somewhat playing it safe though.
The majority(not all) of them are welding the outer "c" pillar and finishing with filler.
Avoids the possibility of an exposed crack later on down the road

[Gordy Doyle]

Marty you made mention of some very interesting stuff about the high end vehicles that get both the panel bond and then compression spot welded. Do you know more about this? Definetely sounds like the best of both worlds. I'm interested in doing that where the roof meets the quarter (where originally it was leaded together). When it came back from blaster I realized the original metal below the lead was rusted away. I guess it was caused by the original panels being overheated when they put the lead in at the factory. Probably rusted out from the back side from not being treated?

My 73 TA from the rear window back is being replaced. All the panels from an Arizona donor were painstakingly seperated by cutting out the factory spotwelds. I'm almost complete hammering and dolly and prepping the panels and fitting them back in place. It's been a long process. Other than filling holes, I'm still little ways from welding it back together. All of the mating metal surfaces are clean.

John I'll definitely take your advice on the bumper plates. I Had been thinking that the rear end panel was going to be the trickiest peice to weld back together because it has thin strips of metal on each side attaching the backs of each quarter just to the outside of and wrapping the tailights.
They're bent around the edge like a stretched peice of taffy and were originally slathered full of seam sealer. Seems like a great place to try panel bonding adhesive