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Old 12-24-2002, 07:15 PM
meanolegoat meanolegoat is offline
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whats got 4 inches of drainage in the bottom and none in the ends!!!! I would really like to keep the existing skins due to the gauge of the metal. But how do I keep the damn rust from coming back?? Cut it out/install patches, but rust is a byproduct of the welding (aaarrgg) it seems to actually accelerate the process. Weld em in and pour por 15 in and shake/roll em around for coverage. Any suggestions (68 gto)?? thanks "mean"

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Old 12-24-2002, 07:15 PM
meanolegoat meanolegoat is offline
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whats got 4 inches of drainage in the bottom and none in the ends!!!! I would really like to keep the existing skins due to the gauge of the metal. But how do I keep the damn rust from coming back?? Cut it out/install patches, but rust is a byproduct of the welding (aaarrgg) it seems to actually accelerate the process. Weld em in and pour por 15 in and shake/roll em around for coverage. Any suggestions (68 gto)?? thanks "mean"

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Old 12-25-2002, 02:21 AM
burgundygto burgundygto is offline
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Any welded patch needs to be primed/painted on the backside or it will rust away quick. I always make sure I cut ALL the rust out, strip away surrounding paint and treat with an acid soution to kill existing rust. Then a good prime/paint job will last a good long time. Works for me.

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Old 12-25-2002, 10:42 AM
meanolegoat meanolegoat is offline
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The areas that I've cut out are in the outer lower corners of the door. When you refer to acid are you talking like the SEM converter? I had planned on using the weld thu primer on these spots. I dont see how you could blow primer and paint into these areas. I've cut out the rot and was thinking of blasting out the "surface" rust, then coating in there with por 15 prior to welding in the patches. I dont know.....

  #5  
Old 12-25-2002, 06:57 PM
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Marty Phipps Marty Phipps is offline
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Here's something to consider.
If your rust problem is primarily in between the seams, you can stop that from coming back.
I'm assuming you're going to also replace the "spot weld flanges" along with the outer patches.
What I do whenever I replace a door skinis this;
I'll place a light bead of slow drying seamsealer, along the door inner edge.
plus a light bead along the door skin flange edge.
Set the replacement skin down, roll the inner flanges. then finish the door.
By placing a bead of seam sealer between the door shell and skin, you eliminate any possibility of rust forming between these panels.
Plus you also add a little strength from flexing.
You can also do this with partial replacements.
The down side being, the replacement parts wont rust out, but the old portions will.
After you've finished the replacement.
Lightly scuff the inner panels with a scotch brite pad, and brush on Por 15.
No more rust problems.

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Old 12-26-2002, 03:59 PM
meanolegoat meanolegoat is offline
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thanks for the input guys, i'll see what i can do...tomorrow am i'm taking plasma cutter to the trunk pan pleas keep yall's fingers crossed...thanks

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Old 12-29-2002, 12:35 AM
burgundygto burgundygto is offline
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Remember that the welding will burn the paint that you put on before hand. You can spill and shake a primer around in this area when you are done. I have found that if POR-15 puddles up and then dries it will crack and peel. drain it good or brush it on. POR-15 sells the acid I was talking about - they call it METAL READY. It eats the rust before you coat. Paint suppliers sell it for panel prepping also.

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