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PLAY400 · 05-09-2005, 03:26 PM

again

PLAY400 · 05-09-2005, 03:27 PM

and the bracket that attaches to the engine

Jack Gifford · 05-09-2005, 11:45 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by cheviac:
What years did Pontiac use the front motor mount? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I think up through '60, but not positive.
Thanks for all the Hurst info! Maybe you can also shed some light on the question of why I could use the Hurst for Pontiac in '57 Chev, but Play400 had to use a steering rack???

PLAY400 · 05-10-2005, 05:17 AM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Pontiac Jack:
Maybe you can also shed some light on the question of why I could use the Hurst for Pontiac in '57 Chev, but Play400 had to use a steering rack??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I ended up with rack because:
1. Didn't like the looks and problems associated with the firewall cut out so I welded it back in and with the help of Bill E. from here went a different route.

2. I wanted the motor to sit low and the steering box was in the way. The solution guys here have been using is o mount the motor high. I could have raised the mounts 2-3" and possibly got by with the 605 power steering box. And I didn't want to massage the firewall after I put it back together or bsh the tunnel. Believe it or not the car is solid and rust free. Couldn't push the motor back or forward enough to clear both steering linkage and steering box.

3. When pricing out everything it was cheaper and I think better to put a rack in than rebuild the front end. I was able to buy some GM Celebrity rebuilt MOOG ps R&Ps for dust and it is what alot of the aftermart guys are using.

straycat · 05-10-2005, 06:40 AM

wow cheviac that is some find. any more kits at that dealer? is there any chance us enthusiasts could get a copy of the directions and solutions you mentioned. i was ordering a motor plate from spotts performance today but its not really the look i want. i e mailed trans dapt but they never got back. my buddies garage is getting some space available this month so i can begin the motor/trans installation. i was thinking of using 62 catalina motor mounts with fabricated frame mounts. luckily we'll now have the space to mock up a bare block & trans and take into account cylinder head and exhaust clearances plus the usual steering problems you run into with these type projects.

cheviac · 05-10-2005, 02:17 PM

Straycat, I found this guy in Hemmings. His web site is: bill@belmontsrodandcustom.com tel. 1-781-326-9599. Nice guy. By the way I paid $75 for the motor plate, $50 for the frame adapters which the motor plate/mount sits on and $25 for the rubber donuts and special bolts used to put the two together.

The motor mount can be used in just about any car, it's the adaptors which are different.

I'll try to post a list of all the problems and solutions for you. And if I can get my son to help me, I'll post a picture of the whole set up.

cheviac · 05-10-2005, 02:47 PM

Here are the alterations which are necessary before fitting the engine into the engine compartment according to Hurst:

Firewall interferance with heads-Eliminate by hammering in with a ball peen hammer as nessary.
(That's really what it says!)

Tie Rod interferance with Crankpan-Clearance between oil pan and tie rod can be gained by installing a Pitman arm and idler arm from a 55-57 chevy power steering setup. If the car already has the original powersteering, clearances can be improved by installing the non-powersteering tie rod.

Exhaust manifold interferance with steering box-An exhaust collector made from steel tubing can be fabricate to clear steering box or the steering box can be moved deeper(about 1/2 the width of the steering box)into the frame rail by cutting a section out of the frame. If the frame is cut away, it must be reinforced by a qualified source.(sounds like headers for me!)

They go on to say that a standard chevy bell housing mount can be used under non-racing conditions but strongly advise a tranny cross member otherwise. And further state that the column shift stock linkage can't be used and reccommend,what else but a Hurst floor shifter!

Last, the Hurst part numbers for the adapters are as follows:

1. Left hand frame adapter no.3297
2. Right hand frame adapter no.2517
3. Special oversize washer no. 2631

The complete package of all of the above is part no.AC-55.

Hope this helps.

cheviac · 05-10-2005, 03:07 PM

Just thought of something else. I just read an article which said you can gain some room with the steering box/exhaust problem by shimming the top of the steering box out away from the frame using washers. This tilfts the biggest section of the box downward and it doesn't affect the linkage operation at all.

Jack Gifford · 05-10-2005, 10:35 PM

Cheviac- Wow, what a time-warp those Hurst instructions took me on! Filled in some of the gaps of what I remembered/forgot about my '57 Chev's. Yes, I followed their instructions to a 'T'- hammered firewall, used power-steering idler & pitman arms, and substituted "collectors made from steel tubing"- Hedman headers extremely modified to have short collectors pointed straight down, with 3-bolt caps on the bottoms and headpipe nipples going out the backs of the collectors.
Thanks for the memories!!
P.S. The faster-ratio steering gained with the idler & pitman arm change was very timely for me, since I finished the first '57 just in time to take it to Germany with me, where daily road-racing was the name of the game. Not to mention the physical conditioning my arms got!

cheviac · 05-11-2005, 09:50 AM

P.J. You took your 57 to Germany!!!???? When? What was the locals reaction? That must have been quite a topic of conversation at the local pubs. Good for a few pints on the house. Love to hear about it.

By the way, if it wasn't for you, we wouldn't have known that Hurst made these mount kits. Thanks for the heads up.

straycat · 05-11-2005, 01:49 PM

cheviac...thanks for all that info. i called bill today and ordered a kit. he seemed to have all the knowledge from 30 years in the rod & custom business readly at hand. guys i think he has more kits. no credit cards but checks ok add $20 for shipping.

Bill Eveland · 05-12-2005, 10:40 AM

Just curious, has anyone tried one of those tubular crossmembers for a Chevy v-8?, with the a-body mounts I think the bolt hole to hole is the same as a Pontiac- about 16 1/8". I think most of those crossmembers are set up with a 6" drop too.

cheviac · 05-13-2005, 02:46 PM

I test fitted the block last night. The Hurst mounts worked perfectly. I Cleared the steering linkage and will have to massage the firewall slightly on the driver's side just like the instructions said.

I'm using the original Pontiac bellhousing and transmission so I had to order a crossmember kit to mount it. Other than that it was a piece of cake.

Jack Gifford · 05-14-2005, 12:02 AM

Cheviac- Way to go! What about exhaust- planning on manifolds or headers?
P.S. I spent '64-'67 in Europe, when speed limits only existed in cities and villages- what a ball! I even drove a couple laps at Nuerburgring on a non-race weekend- the second lap with the headers open. That was the old 26Km track- something like 137 turns!

Jack Gifford · 05-15-2005, 08:36 PM

<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by cheviac:
What years did Pontiac use the front motor mount? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
By Pontiac Jack: I think up through '60, but not positive.

I was wrong- only up through '58.

PMDRACER · 05-18-2005, 10:38 AM

I have a question for the group. When I made my original post, I was assuming that a conversion had been made to the F-body front subframe, or was a planned step. I've seen plenty of tri-5s done this way.

Is this not a common thing to do anymore?

PLAY400 · 05-18-2005, 11:09 AM

PMDRACER I could not find any benefit replacing the front clip as the 567s have modern steering and suspension and it would still require making custom motor mounts and more. Think I would go with a MII xmember assembly before I clip it. Alan

PMDRACER · 05-18-2005, 03:11 PM

Cool. I like the idea of using the original frame. I only asked out of curiosity.

Thanks.

straycat · 06-14-2005, 11:53 AM

i'm now mocking up my motor/trans installation using the hurst motor mount kit. using a generic tubular turbo 400 trans mount. no interference with the oil pan and steering linkage but i also had to modify the drivers side firewall for head clearance. i'm also going to install a turbo trans midmount available from 55-57 parts dealers that will go to the frame. i'm concerned about engine movement with just the 2 bolts thru the timing cover. was thinking about using a stud thru the timing cover followed by a nut then the motor mount and anothr nut if clearance allows with the balancer. also adding some kind of brace to stop motor movement. any thoughts? also i was looking thru a speedway motors catalog and they also have engine mounts and frame adapters to do the swap tho its noted for 55-60 pontiac. looks the same as mine which has hurst stamped in it.

Bill Eveland · 06-14-2005, 05:51 PM

Straycat, they have the picture of the mount on Speedway's website and had a listing too until I contacted them over a year ago to buy one, no luck. Mr Gasket owns Hurst now and the mount is no longer produced, at least that what I was told anyway .
Two bolts at the timing cover and side side mounts for the trans, thats all that was used till 58. Maybe a front motor plate from Spotts performance or Allpontiac?
I think a bolt would be better , using grade 8 bolts, unless you could find a grade 8 stud?

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