[sandmanjoe]

thanks for all the help guys, heres the fuel system i put on the tripower,, ,

1gal nitrous fuel cell
06 AN lines on outlet/return/vent
Holley black fuel pump with auto fuse and relay
Holley bypass regulator and gauge.
AN in-line fuel filter

[sandmanjoe]

i still need to replace my nitrous hard lines going from the solenoids to the tripower,, to make it look somewhat cleaner looking,,,but im done with it for this year.

[Jack Gifford]

A "wet" system, I assume? A plate under each carb?

[sandmanjoe]

yes its a wet system. i have a plate under each carb but only the two end carbs get nitrous the middle one acts like a spacer so the original tripower linkage still works. its setup for a 250hp hit right now,, also i have added a remote bottle cut off and purge valve. im really happy with the system now.

[shotgun]

Is that a "normal" Holley regulator?
I did not know they could be used in a return type system.
How does it work?

[sandmanjoe]

dont know, i had this regulator sitting in my basement for 10 years, i cross checked the number on the case,, and looked it up on the jegs site and it stated it could also be used as a bypass regulator, but the one shown was not chrome,,,

im going to check the pressure on both sides soon as i get the wiring done today to make sure its the bypass one.



http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...10002_18334_-1

[Brian Baker]

How much does anyone want to bet he's bypassing the same amount of fuel back to the tank that's being sent to the fuel solenoid? Liquids are like electricty...they take the path of least resistance. You need to place a restriction of some sort in the return line. Combine this with jetting for a 250 hit and.....

KABOOM !!!!

Why do you keep coming here for advice if you do not listen to it or heed it? A 250 shot is going to make a very short life for that engine...especially considering the attention to detail you've given the hose clamps.

[sandmanjoe]

ill buy a new regulator if its not the correct one,,,, thats not a problem.

i did everything you said so far regarding the fuel system,,, i just didn't back the jetting down, the 150hp shot just isn't enough.

[sandmanjoe]

also,, whats a matter with my hose clamps,,,, Jesus lol

[Billy177]

I was unaware they made fuel cells that siphion from the top, Electric pumps don't like to pull fuel. I would suspect that it may have a problem with not priming, You wouldent notice because there is not a fual pressure gauge in the car and kaboom! Nitrous and no fuel.

What do you have against that motor throwing a 250 shot on a dual plane with a tripower on only the outer carbs. You are gonna have a couple 250 shots followed by a tow truck picking you up on the side of the road. Stick with a 100 shot and have fun with it.

[sandmanjoe]

Originally Posted by Billy177

I was unaware they made fuel cells that siphion from the top, Electric pumps don't like to pull fuel. I would suspect that it may have a problem with not priming, You wouldent notice because there is not a fual pressure gauge in the car and kaboom! Nitrous and no fuel..

thats my vent and return line,,, the feed line is located on the bottom....


and yes, i have plans for a new engine next year, my GOAL is to build a 250hp nitrous tripower system...anyway,,,, im sure everyone will be happy to know that i have installed 40hp jets back into the system so no worries anymore


also i just ran fuel and tested and its as baker said,,, so now i need to buy the correct bypass regulator now..

[Billy177]

ok well thats all good news. I would try and reroute the fuel pump feed line so it is strait down to the fuel pump. It will work now as long as the tank is half full but will have to pull the fuel through that line when it drops below that.

[sandmanjoe]

i can push that feed hose down alot lower with some clamps, i got a pack of 06 clamps right here,,,,ill take some more pictures after i get it all wired and clamped down ,,,, im also going to add one of those NOS fuel pressure shut offs,,,,, so it shuts the nitrous system down if the pressure drops too low.

[shotgun]

I did not think the reg would work that way.
Let me know what happens with testing with 2 gauges.
Also there should be a mesh filter before the pump(to protect the pump) and a paper after(to protect the carb/solenoid).
One little booger gets to the solenoid, ka...............

[Brian Baker]

No, you didn't plumb it like I said...I said to place the filter between the tank and the pump. Jesus...indeed. And replace those old, rusty, worn out hose clamps, will ya?

[GoatRider]

1) I would eliminate the return line all together. The pump is only running when the nitrous system is active right?

2) I would move the nitrous and fuel solenoids up right next to your distribution blocks beside the carbs. This would get them away from the header heat, make for less "dead space" between the valve and the jet, and if you used a short piece of tubing to connect them to the distribution blocks, would also eliminate vibration.

3) I would start with a way smaller power setting, 250hp jets on an untested system with multiple carbs is just asking for trouble. Start small and work your way up is the advice you hear from anyone who has been successful with serious nitrous usage.

Not trying to sound like a know-it-all, just would hate to see you blow that thing up the first time you hit the button after so much work you have shared with us on your car.

John

[performerrpm]

well dont know alot about nitrous i kinda like doing it the hard way but underhood look pretty good to me but i agree with brian the clamps need to go they are dfinateley detracting the looks of the motor. hell i bet it'll rn 100X bette with some new shiny clamps

[sandmanjoe]

lol, yes your right, baker,, i put the filter in the wrong place,,i just switched the lines so the filter is after the tank now. i have also blocked the return line until i can get the correct regulator.



im going to be moving those solenoids shortly,,getting rid of all the steel nitrous lines going to the plates and replacing them with -04 braided lines.

i hope to get the new regulator and 04lines and fittings in 2weeks,, i have no more money to spend on the car till then.

[sandmanjoe]

and YES ill also order some freaking hose clamps!!! lol

[Brian Baker]

Just sh!tcan the return line, you don't need it. You'll only be running the pump when the system is activated anyway and it's perfectly ok for the pump to "deadhead" for a few seconds before turning the system on.