[71Sport]

Here are my stats:
I have a 455 bored .060 over, block filled, 12.5:1 compression, locked distributor 37 degree advance, digital 6 ignition. Electric water pump, no thermostat. 4 core copper/brass radiator two 12" dia electric fans mounted on push side.
In my '71 LeMans the fenders become almost unbearably hot(????) making it seem like blockage through the radiator, also I cannot feel air flow behind the radiator!
This is a new build and I started the beast during the hottest days this year (100 degrees and high humidity) Drove the car for about 10 minutes and pegged the temp gauge (maxed out at 240 degrees). When I shut down the car and leave the water pump and fans on I can cool the system down to 150 in about 5 - 7 minutes.
I have an aluminum radiator on order along with two 14" diameter fans (gives me almost 6000 CFM and covers over 70 percent of surface area). I will be removing the shroud and placing the fans in the "puller" location per fan recommendations.
My main question is .... what have others done with this type of build?

[71Sport]

Here are my stats:
I have a 455 bored .060 over, block filled, 12.5:1 compression, locked distributor 37 degree advance, digital 6 ignition. Electric water pump, no thermostat. 4 core copper/brass radiator two 12" dia electric fans mounted on push side.
In my '71 LeMans the fenders become almost unbearably hot(????) making it seem like blockage through the radiator, also I cannot feel air flow behind the radiator!
This is a new build and I started the beast during the hottest days this year (100 degrees and high humidity) Drove the car for about 10 minutes and pegged the temp gauge (maxed out at 240 degrees). When I shut down the car and leave the water pump and fans on I can cool the system down to 150 in about 5 - 7 minutes.
I have an aluminum radiator on order along with two 14" diameter fans (gives me almost 6000 CFM and covers over 70 percent of surface area). I will be removing the shroud and placing the fans in the "puller" location per fan recommendations.
My main question is .... what have others done with this type of build?

[PROBRD]

Are you trying to drive this thing on the street? You were lucky to make it ten minutes. I tried to drive my race car on the street with an electric water pump drive and only made it a few miles from home before it hit 220. You can't run with an electric water pump on the street or for an extended amount of time. They just don't flow enough water. I put my belt drive back on and it made a 100% difference. An aluminum radiator is well worth the money also.
You also need at least a restrictor in the thermostat area to slow the water down a little to give it time to cool in the radiator. Just cut out the center of an old thermostat.

[Steve C.]

I have a similar situation.
My T/A has a aluminum cross-flow radiator, two Perma-Cool 14" electric fans (mounting fans as pullers is a must) and a Meziere electric water pump without a thermostate or restricter. We tried it with a restricter, but in my piticular situation it works best without one. Granted the car sees limited street use, but the only time the temp has creeped up near 220 is at a signal during the heat of summer. I recently had a custom shroud made to further aid in cooling. I took it for a short test drive after installing the shroud and the temp never got over 180 degrees.

[SLOW 77]

Steve and 71sport are you'lls blocks filled to the top or just to the freeze plugs?

[Steve C.]

My current block is not filled. I'm almost finished with a new motor to replace this one and it will be filled to the freeze plugs. I'm filling it for strength reasons (target hp is 700) but a added benefit maybe better cooling... I have been told that a filled block runs cooler. Also was told not to fill it past the freeze plugs since it will see some limited street use.

[71Sport]

I am filled to the freeze plugs.

[This message has been edited by 71Sport (edited 09-05-2000).]

[SLOW 77]

That is why I was asking as I filled mine to the freeze plugs as well and it is fine on the street. That new engine sounds great, what is your goal to run with it?

[Steve C.]

Slow77ta. I want to retire my current motor before anything serious happens, it still has the origional main caps and no studs. I'm running on the ragged edge and it's my numbers matching block. I'm starting off fresh with all new components except for carb, ignition and the water pump. Making 700 hp is really only a target number thrown out to shoot for, my main goal is to build a motor that will produce high 10's off the trailer in the heat. Right now it will only do so when the conditions are right. Plus I'm building it with a very strong bottom end so that we can play around with small amounts of nitrous for fun.

[SLOW 77]

That sounds very good, and strong! See ya next PSN.

[71Sport]

FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!
I put in the BeCool radiator and two permacool 14" high performance fans.
We ran it around town tonight (temp around 70) and the water temp never went over 165 - 170. Turned the fans off and the temp rose to 180. I panic'd and turned the fans back on, cooled right back down to 160.
I think this will work fine.

[71Sport]

Now I am going to add a thermstatically controlled switch to make sure I am in the 170 - 180 degree range for power.
I am going to keep the manual switch too.