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#1
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weird electrical issue
Tonight I ordered a pizza and took the firebird or a playful joyride to pick it up.
Had 20 minutes to kill, so I did some runs on my favorite test area and then stopped to pickup pizza. When I came out 10 minutes later car had no power. First noticed it did not crank, then noticed no key buzzer, interior light and head lights or horn. I popped hood chked wiring was tight at battery, alt., and gnd on passenger head. Still nothing so I wiggled wiring to starter and voltage regulator and the next attempt I had all power back!!!! Drove home with no further issue. After car cooled chkd voltage at battery 12.7 with car off and 14.1 running even with headlights on. So my chging system must be okay. Chked battry cables were tight and no corrosion. Forward Harness and battery cables are a few years old and clean. All connections at starter were tight and have double layered heat shield.(had a hot cranking issue that this solved) I am very good electrically and this has me concerned. Can a battery act ok but go in and out. Only other concern was a fusible link and the 2 I saw by voltage regulator seemed ok. Any thoughts?? Gerry
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1968 Firebird 400, 068 cam, TH400 & 13" Continental Converter, Auburn posi with 3:08 factory gears, Cliff's Q-jet resting on a 68 factory iron intake, DUI HEI and Ram Air pans and RARE Long Branch Manifolds |
#2
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Check to see if the cable is tight in the starter solenoid.
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1971 Pontiac GT-37 Car is a junk yard dog and maybe one day will be restored. |
#3
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cables
Well to be thorough I took the starter down and everything was clean and tight.
The contact washer in the solenoid was showing some burns so I flipped it and removed the positive cable to do an ohm test. It has continuity when laying on the work bench, but if I wiggle in one area the meter reads open. This has me concerned and feel a new cable is in order. This were the spring type cables and were close to 10 years old. Maybe from engine vibration and heat the cable has a burnt spot. New cable is in my future. What gauge??? Gerry
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1968 Firebird 400, 068 cam, TH400 & 13" Continental Converter, Auburn posi with 3:08 factory gears, Cliff's Q-jet resting on a 68 factory iron intake, DUI HEI and Ram Air pans and RARE Long Branch Manifolds |
#4
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Gerry:
You didn't answer the important question. "Was the pizza still warm when you got home?" If it were me, I'd use 0 or 00 gauge starter cable. It'll never let you down.
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My Pontiac is a '57 GMC with its original 347" Pontiac V8 and dual-range Hydra-Matic. |
#5
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pizza
yes it was warm and delicious. Large sausage pie well done and perfect.
can see I may have to make some new cable's. Gerry
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1968 Firebird 400, 068 cam, TH400 & 13" Continental Converter, Auburn posi with 3:08 factory gears, Cliff's Q-jet resting on a 68 factory iron intake, DUI HEI and Ram Air pans and RARE Long Branch Manifolds |
#6
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Is there a welding supply store in your area. Have them make up the cables.
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Its ok to giggle and snicker, Dont laugh and point |
#7
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If there is a Mills Fleet Farm in your area, you can get some really nice cables there.
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#8
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The problem probably isn't a burnt spot, but corrosion where the cable fits into the clamp. If you make your own cables, make sure they're soldered. Get some shrink tubing to fit the over the clamp and slide it down the cable before you do the soldering. After you solder, slide the shrink tube over the cable end and heat shrink it in place. Makes for a nice neat job which doesn't show where the cable was heated and is the only disadvantage to soldering.
If you don't solder the connection, put some grease on the cable before you assemble it, put a little heat to the connection to melt the grease down into the cable and then assemble it. The grease works to prevent the corrosion which makes the connection go bad. The terminals and clamps can also corrode at their interface. It forms a grey oxide that will allow a little current flow that can allow the interior lights and gauges to work. But, when you try to start the engine, it won't allow the high current required to pass. You might get a click or you might not, but the engine won't start and all the electrics stop working. The cure for that is to clean both of them to shiny metal and then smear a little grease on their surfaces for a protectant, before they're put back together.
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Rich The real democratic American idea is, not that every man shall be on a level with every other man, but that every man shall have liberty to be what God made him, without hindrance. Henry Ward Beecher "The problem with socialism is that you eventually run out of other people's money." Margaret Thatcher |
#9
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cables
Well after cleaning all connections cannot get issue to repeat. And that is
good, but now I question my spring clamp style cables. Believe my issue was caused by poor gnd connection at block. She is now cranking very well even eith my 750CA battery. Gues I never noticed how the cranking speed reduced over time cause it was gradual. The only connection to have ANY sign of corrosion was GND at passenger head lug. Also spring clamps feel weak as far a clamp pressure. I squeezed them and they got better but I think I will make my own cables son. Thanks for all they suggestions guys!! Gerry
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1968 Firebird 400, 068 cam, TH400 & 13" Continental Converter, Auburn posi with 3:08 factory gears, Cliff's Q-jet resting on a 68 factory iron intake, DUI HEI and Ram Air pans and RARE Long Branch Manifolds |
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