[428RA4]

Hello 2nd Gen gear heads. I have a rather simple question Im sure for all of you. Since Im a first gen guy, I dont have a lot of knowledge with 2nd gen cars. Does anyone have or can suggest where I can find a wiring diagram on how the functional door operates on a shaker hood?

thanks

mike

[Jim Rotella]

Originally Posted by njsteve

I believe the 1972 auto-equipped cars got the resistor'ed switch and the 4-speed cars did not. Since it was used to trigger two seperate electrical devices on an auto car, I think it was set up as a heavier duty model so it wouldnt burn out, working the 2 circuits at once.

Steve, I think your right that the switches would burn out without the resistor. The original switch on my auto-equipped '72 Trans Am broke its plastic plunger and I replaced it with a used non-resistor type switch. It burned out in a short period of time. I couldn't find a correct '72 switch, so I replace it with a NOS non-resistor type switch and I've been holding my breath ever since.

[ccie3611]

it works by stomping on the gas pedal and the door opens :-)

this does not have a wiring diagram but it has alot of good info on the shaker
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ops/index.html

[wwilder9]

Originally Posted by njsteve

I believe the 1972 auto-equipped cars got the resistor'ed switch and the 4-speed cars did not. Since it was used to trigger two seperate electrical devices on an auto car, I think it was set up as a heavier duty model so it wouldnt burn out, working the 2 circuits at once.

my 73 auto car has one and the resistor value was 448 ohms when I measured it.

[165th]

Originally Posted by ccie3611

it works by stomping on the gas pedal and the door opens :-)

this does not have a wiring diagram but it has alot of good info on the shaker
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ops/index.html

Brent, great link on the shaker info. I missed that article in my HPP. It answers several questions that have been asked here and in other recent treads.

By the way, on the survivor, have you been able to distinguish which front and rear end assembly parts were painted and which were natural? front stabilizer bar? steering linkage? rear stabilizer? rear end? stabilizer front and rear cap brackets?

More, more pictures... this time the underside. Can you tell we are excited to see you reveal this survivor!

[ccie3611]

Originally Posted by 165th

Brent, great link on the shaker info. I missed that article in my HPP. It answers several questions that have been asked here and in other recent treads.

By the way, on the survivor, have you been able to distinguish which front and rear end assembly parts were painted and which were natural? front stabilizer bar? steering linkage? rear stabilizer? rear end? stabilizer front and rear cap brackets?

More, more pictures... this time the underside. Can you tell we are excited to see you reveal this survivor!

i have a few pics under the car, i need to get some while its up on a lift. i have not tried to see what was raw metel vs painted, i need to get on that because i would also like to know :-)

(remember the muffler was replaced)

[ccie3611]

more under the car pics

[165th]

Thanks! I see the blue paint on the gas tank straps. Very interesting. Brewster will have something to say about that as well.

[ccie3611]

Originally Posted by 165th

Thanks! I see the blue paint on the gas tank straps. Very interesting. Brewster will have something to say about that as well.

hmm, that is interesting.

[7072PMD]

I SEE THE ORIGINAL SPIRAL SHOCKS AND EVEN LOOKS LIKE THE ORIGINAL EXHAUST PIPES HAVE NOT BEEN CHANGED.

[428RA4]

Originally Posted by ccie3611

it works by stomping on the gas pedal and the door opens :-)

this does not have a wiring diagram but it has alot of good info on the shaker
http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...ops/index.html

Thank you sir for the information and a bit of a chuckle about having to insert your foot into the floor pan~!

;o)

[ccie3611]

Originally Posted by ccie3611

hmm, that is interesting.

ok i had to go look - cleaned the straps a bit and here are the pics - they are painted. perhaps they were 'hanging' while the car was painted before the tank was installed.

the number on the strap is 3965632

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by ccie3611

the survivor TA has a replacement alternator, however my other TA i'm restoring had the original alternator (that is i believe it is original) - see the pictures. of course as you can see it has been restored by a local shop, i'm not sure the fan should be black.

What is the build date of the other T/A that this alternator came from? I have a 1D5 dated unit in my 12A T/A and I'm rather curious as to other car's component dates for comparison.

[165th]

Originally Posted by ccie3611

ok i had to go look - cleaned the straps a bit and here are the pics - they are painted. perhaps they were 'hanging' while the car was painted before the tank was installed.

the number on the strap is 3965632

There's another thread that has pretty much vetted that the tank strap was hanging when painted. A lot of '73's, '74's were used as go-by's to determine this. This is the first '72 I've seen with this same look.

One of the questions that has yet to be cleared up is when the straps were hanging, why isn't there more color overspray on the bottom side of the trunk pan? We know there is color overspray shot from the side of the car, but not a lot of evidence of an upward or rearward spray to catch the straps. Maybe the blue on the straps is just overspray from the rearward spray shots. Do the front of the straps have color on them?

Also, on the USS tank ID, I always thought the 12 30 70 was a date code. If it is, then that's quite a long timeframe from mfr. to install into the car.

[ccie3611]

Originally Posted by njsteve

What is the build date of the other T/A that this alternator came from? I have a 1D5 dated unit in my 12A T/A and I'm rather curious as to other car's component dates for comparison.

the other TA Build date is 11C

[njsteve]

Whatever you do, don't chemically strip, sand, or refinish those bare metal parts underneath - use this stuff instead:

http://www.safestrustremover.com/

I used it on my car and tons of parts and it is just frikken amazing. It doesn't remove or alter the actual metal, it just washes away the rust. It works just as well on exhaust pipes, too. I set up a mini sump pump in a kiddy pool under my car with a garden sprayer head and just let it spray at the surface rust for days. The results were amazing!

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...433662&page=14

[njsteve]

Originally Posted by 165th

Also, on the USS tank ID, I always thought the 12 30 70 was a date code. If it is, then that's quite a long timeframe from mfr. to install into the car.

They had some crazy parts dates in '72. That was why I was asking about your alternator versus your build date on the other car.

Maybe they had a lot of earlier tanks sitting around that month. My 12A car had the 12/20/1971 date on its original tank - that was one day before it shipped out on 12/21/1971.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...433662&page=17

[ccie3611]

Originally Posted by 165th

There's another thread that has pretty much vetted that the tank strap was hanging when painted. A lot of '73's, '74's were used as go-by's to determine this. This is the first '72 I've seen with this same look.

One of the questions that has yet to be cleared up is when the straps were hanging, why isn't there more color overspray on the bottom side of the trunk pan? We know there is color overspray shot from the side of the car, but not a lot of evidence of an upward or rearward spray to catch the straps. Maybe the blue on the straps is just overspray from the rearward spray shots. Do the front of the straps have color on them?

Also, on the USS tank ID, I always thought the 12 30 70 was a date code. If it is, then that's quite a long timeframe from mfr. to install into the car.

yes the straps are blue in front of the tank, maybe the were 'hindged' at the back of the car while hanging.

[ccie3611]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Whatever you do, don't chemically strip, sand, or refinish those bare metal parts underneath - use this stuff instead:

http://www.safestrustremover.com/

I used it on my car and tons of parts and it is just frikken amazing. It doesn't remove or alter the actual metal, it just washes away the rust. It works just as well on exhaust pipes, too. I set up a mini sump pump in a kiddy pool under my car with a garden sprayer head and just let it spray at the surface rust for days. The results were amazing!

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...433662&page=14

yes Steve - i have followed your restoration on that other link and saw that rust remover setup - that was great!

[165th]

Originally Posted by njsteve

Whatever you do, don't chemically strip, sand, or refinish those bare metal parts underneath - use this stuff instead:

http://www.safestrustremover.com/

I used it on my car and tons of parts and it is just frikken amazing. It doesn't remove or alter the actual metal, it just washes away the rust. It works just as well on exhaust pipes, too. I set up a mini sump pump in a kiddy pool under my car with a garden sprayer head and just let it spray at the surface rust for days. The results were amazing!

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...433662&page=14

I agree with Steve, this is great rust remover with no issues to metal. However, it can lift some original paint coatings. It's ok on the red primer for instance, but will lift the paint off of say the upper control arms, where paint was applied directly to bare metal.