[RocktimusPryme]

My 62 Safari is a factory maroon (belmont red) body with a white roof.

Im going to garage respray it this spring. Ive done it before with reasonable results considering the cost savings of a body shop job.

Im going to use summit single stage, which again I have used before happily. (I am still going to use a 2k Clear over the top.

I would like to do this all wet on wet. Do the minimal body work Im going to do. Scuff the whole car, wash it/prep it etc. Then spray a primer/sealer coat, go right into the two tone color, followed by clearing the whole car.

The application chart says that it can be taped after 8 hours. And the clearcoat window is 18.

The seal primer says if it dries for between 1 and 16 hours, spray a new layer or primer and continue wet on wet application. If longer than 16 I have to sand.

I really want to avoid abrading the surface once I get into this.

So should I

A: mask the body, and do a full wet application to the roof. Sealer/Top Coat, Clear Coat. Then come back and do the same thing to the body with the roof masked, at a later time.

B. Same thing but don't clear the roof. Let it sit over night, come out and mask the roof, seal/paint the body and then clear the whole car together with the masking removed?


There is a part of me that wants to just paint the whole thing one color to make it easier, but its made it its whole life with a two tone job.

[Red80TA]

Not too useful but thought I'd add anyway, the two-tone 70's Firebird Formulas, as an example, were sprayed entirely, then masked up, probably sanded, and the lower band of colour sprayed straight over. Each vehicle had its own unique overspray underneath, and masking technique. as well as different angles of front and rear fender lines. There was no total clear coat as these also used a flat paint for the lower section so that was that. Having said all that, when restoring mine, which still hasn't occurred, they also gave me the 2 options you mentioned. Spray paint the lot, then come back and add the extra colour, then sand and clear coat the lot. Otherwise, try the half-half approach and try to blend in the join. Or do either and no final clear coat over both, just walk away as had 2 sheens. I'm not sure if this also applied to any with different roof paint, giving a satin finish or gloss like the rest, to look more like a vinyl top rather than paint.

On these it was covered by a pinstripe anyway, whereas other models it would be a decor moulding like a fin flash or roof panel to body. I'm not sure they had a preference, but I remember discussing that one would be far more professional, probably the clearing of the lot once done, but also agreed that the other would be more original. Kinda factory vs custom paint, sometimes the best way is not the suitable way, depends on what the finish is. Anyway, good to see how others have done it.

https://www.schmitt.com/wp-content/u...-FORMULA01.jpg

[RocktimusPryme]

Yeah, I guess Im leaning towards option A, because it isn't as tight on time window.

I will have to fight the join, or maybe I just wont care because you wont see it unless you are 2 feet from the car. What helps me there too is its a very small area. Its basically just the pillars . I was looking at a technique where people bend masking tape into a "j" shape to try and soften the line some.

Again, Im going into this with realistic expectations. Ive done two cars now and my only criterion is that they look better than when they started. Which is a pretty low bar. Currently the white roof somebody brushed on with house paint.

[gtojeff1967]

with base coat clear if you let it set a few hours and use good masking tape you can mask off the bottom and paint your top and clear the whole car. See if summit has harder so it dries faster and do the same or (use some japan drier in the paint maybe).

[RocktimusPryme]

I had read that elsewhere that with a true base/clear system you can mask off paint very quickly.

Summit does sell a base clear system. It’s about twice the price. Which is still doable.

My bigger concern is that I’m comfortable with the 2k single stage and my equipment. I’m confident with my Eastwood gun and that single stage urethane I can mix 4:1 with a 10% reducer on a 1.3 tip and it will lay down pretty darned flat for me the first time.

I’m concerned that I will struggle and have to experiment with settings if I switch product types.