[duke455]

well not to bad. I do need some advive on what to do and how to fix this problem.
I have been porting on a set of 4X heads, not going crazy but opening up the bowl
area and doing some blending. I did'nt think I was going to far, I have been checking
with snap gauges and other forms but I did go through on the one side of the valve
guied. its in the water jacket.these are for my sons car and really cant afford to get
a new set of heads to start over right now. what "epoxy" is being used to fix such a
hole and where can I get it at. any help is greatly appreciated

[Sun Tuned]

I think that would need to be welded.

Not sure epoxy will take care of that.

[Daniel Barton]

Splashzone 788, I get it from Carboline but you can probably find some at a boat repair facility.

[Hillard]

What Mr. Barton said:

http://www.epoxyproducts.com/splash_...poxy_a788.html

[Hillard]

or this...

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-35560

[73 TRANSAM]

The splashzone is what they use for intake it is dark green and yellow 2 part epoxy.
But is onlly used for reshaping the port and never heard of it being used to seal water.
But I guess you could try it. I would think that needs to be welded to be right. Goodluck.

[Daniel Barton]

It is a two part epoxy, yellow and black that turns a olive green when it is mixed. It is meant for repairing hulls on boats so it works very well with water but I would however make it pretty thick, about .100 and make it wide, tapering out at about .500 wide. Once it is mixed up keep your fingers wet with water or laquer thinner to work it into place or all it will do is stick to your fingers, as with any epoxy make sure part is clean and let the epoxy sit for at least 12 hours before pressure testing the part. Good luck!

[mgarblik]

Splash zone epoxy is so nice to use because it can be worked extensively with water which reduces sanding time. One concern I have with your pin-hole is it is likely paper thin in an area 6 to ten times the size of that hole. If you poke around in the bowl near that hole with a dental tool, I bet it will go through other places. Heat and expansion may not allow then epoxy to hold without filling a large area negating much of your bowl work. You might be in a tough spot there.

[b-man]

Scrap the head and start over.

I agree with the poster above, paper-thin.

[fiedlerh]

4X heads are cheap and common. Try to find ones with large intakes and screw-in studs for a 400 -- Stamping 3, 3H, or 7H.

http://www.pontiacpower.org/4xheads.htm

[Bill Bolin]

I have used Devcon Titanium putty (part#10760) with excellent results and have sold it to several machine shops who have used it with excellent results as well. You can buy it at most industrial distributors such as the one I work for www.Applied.com

[Bill Bolin]

http://www.devcon.com/products/produ...m?familyid=124

[BruceWilkie]

If your lucky you can find your hole looking into the water jacket holes... if so a bit of sand blasting thru the deck hole(s) will clean up that side of port well enough for JB Weld to stick well(dont bother with JB Kwik its not as high working temp range or bonding strength when cured compared to regular JB Weld).

Regular JB Weld is rather thin and tends to flow easily. When it sets and cures it adheres very well and is fuel ,oil, water, antifreeze, alcohol, proof. Withstands temps reliably at 400 and starts getting soft by 500... both temps are well above range your heads will ever see.

Anyway... brush it in if you have to, and let it flow over area... apply additional coats after it skims over enough (30-60 minutes each coat should do) untill you have at least 1/16th or more thick coating. Let it cure overnite, hand sand any that dripped through into port and paint a coat or two of JB around the affected area in the bowl...let it cure overnite and hand sand smooth in the bowl.

This should give you a patch that more than covers the thin area where its broke thru and the thin areas beyond the hole.

JB is less than $10.00 at Walmart...

BTW if JB is dripping through into valve bowl too much on first coat, just block the flow with rolled up piece of plastic coffee can lid...JB wont stick to that unless its real rough.

[Jack Ferris]

Originally Posted by b-man

Scrap the head and start over.

I agree with the poster above, paper-thin.

X10000

If it was a 722 or an HO head I could see fixing it. A 4X head is very common and ya, I would start on a fresh head. Definately NOT saying the for mentioned repair methods would not work, but all your out is some grinder time. Take that head and slice it through the port and see how much material you have so you can avoid the same issue twice.

[Aaron Quinton]

I've used Bexane and Polymer Steel both to do casting repairs. Baxane is much smoother material that can be applied and finished with a wet finger.

http://www.certifiedlabs.com/certifi...4&pName=BEXANE

Polymer Steel MG is a more course material that needs finished with a grinder after application. Polymer Steel MG is metal filled which makes is more course once mixed.

http://dudick.com/industrial/tech_da...r_steel_mg.asp

I switched to Polymer Steel MG from Bexane due to the lack of availability of Bexane.

[J.C.you]

one of the thinnest areas in the dports where you cut thru. I would cut it up like mentioned above.

[Somanycars]

Has anyone tried preheating and just used brazing rod? You would also have to cool the head back down slowly. or possibly even silver solder? Friend of mine has a class drag car with sbc that the heads are brazed up everywhere and it has been like that for 10 plus years.I will say I do not know if it was used to plug water holes or just as a filler. He did not know who did the port work.

[Formulas]

Yeah fix that one cylinder then run the head then another one pops through ( because they are all probably paper thin ) and a then a toasted engine by the time you realize it.

Replacing the heads is the cheapest option at this point..!!

..

[68gtoMN]

I had this happen 20 years ago when a mechanic friend decided to show me how to do it correctly after my porting/bowl shaping was done. Within minutes, he went through. I then went out and found another set of heads. No other safe way to do it. But then I took my existing heads to a machine shop and had them cut through two ports for me (1 intake, 1 exhaust) so I could see a cross section of the wall thickness and understand the castings. I still have them today.

[Half-Inch Stud]

for $50 of epoxy you could...

for $50 of iron you could...

either way you be grinding iron.