[Ben M.]

So my mom & dad downsized and dad ended up getting rid of his truck. I offered to take it off his hands for a nice price. It’s a 2001 Ford F-250 with the 7.3 and 101k miles. He bought it 8.5 years ago and put less than 10,000 miles on it. Any surprises or gotchas I should be aware of in this year of truck? Or even just basic maintenance it will need at this era of it’s life? Dad says he did nothing to it other than oil changes and 2 new batteries. I drove it 1200 miles home pulling a trailer and it did great.

[400 4spd.]

You are a lucky man! With regular fluid changes that thing should last you a lifetime. Any later 7.3 with that low mileage is worth a premium. Is the body (rust free) solid and straight?

[muscle_collector]

2001 was one of the best year ford trucks ever built. I had a dually 4 x 4 that I put 130k on it and never had one repair done to it. the repair at 130k was putting front brakes on it. but considering I pulled a 42' trailer behind it daily you cant complain about that.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Thedieselstop.com is a website a friend has relied on for a lot of info. He has a 99 F250 4X4.
There's specifics about virtually every year that are different.
Just the fact that you have a 7.3 is the best thing.
He has one of the programmers hooked to his, helped with power and MPG.
I installed same brand programmer on a church bus. My crs is acting up, will have to give you the brand later...Lol

He has had to change the front hub bearings at least twice, of course it's a 4X4, and has close to 300,000 miles on it now...

[TAKerry]

I think you scored a pretty good deal. Then again im a ford guy. That truck isn't even broke in yet. You should be able to get at least 250k miles before its gonna need anything (other than routine oil change every 5k). Ive got almost 300k on my f 150 gas model and its a lightweight compared to yours!

[Chief of the 60's]

I had the identical truck. Drove it to 286,000 miles and would still have it if it did not need a frame-off restoration and a cab due to rot. It is well known in the light duty diesel world that there are only 2 good diesels, the Cummins and the 7.3L.

Common issues? There are a few.

Oil pan rots out
Wire harness in the valve covers goes bad
Glow plugs
Glow plug relay (Especially if you don't replace a Ford or International relay)
Occasionally an injector
Must periodically change axle lube and only use the Ford additive
Depending on miles per year, annual oil changes are a must to achieve optimum fuel economy
Add diesel additive once a month - I ran Power Service Diesel Kleen
Run "off-road" diesel every chance you get
Change fuel filter once a year

That is all I can think of at this time, they are rather maintenance free engines.

Now the brake system is another story. Expect to free-up calipers often. Both pistons and sliders.

[hurryinhoosier62]

Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's

I had the identical truck. Drove it to 286,000 miles and would still have it if it did not need a frame-off restoration and a cab due to rot. It is well known in the light duty diesel world that there are only 2 good diesels, the Cummins and the 7.3L.

Common issues? There are a few.

Oil pan rots out
Wire harness in the valve covers goes bad
Glow plugs
Glow plug relay (Especially if you don't replace a Ford or International relay)
Occasionally an injector
Must periodically change axle lube and only use the Ford additive
Depending on miles per year, annual oil changes are a must to achieve optimum fuel economy
Add diesel additive once a month - I ran Power Service Diesel Kleen
Run "off-road" diesel every chance you get
Change fuel filter once a year

That is all I can think of at this time, they are rather maintenance free engines.

Now the brake system is another story. Expect to free-up calipers often. Both pistons and sliders.

2001 would make it a PowerStroke AD injector engine with one AE "cackle" injector to aid cold starting. The valve cover sensor has always been a PITA along with changing out the cam position sensor. Every time you change the oil and filter change the fuel filter as well. HEUI injectors need clean oil and clean fuel to operate correctly. At 101,000 mile you might consider pulling the injectors to have the nozzle opening pressure and spring condition checked. 2,800 psi is the static opening pressure. I've seen it as low as 2,300 psi on engine with comparable mileage. If you have low nozzle opening pressure do NOT let the shop simply shim the nozzle springs. Replace the OE springs with DiPaco replacements. Nozzle spring heights over .500 screw up the needle lift.

[Cardo]

Make sure you fill the oil filter too when you change oil. It won't start afterward without a whole lot of cranking if you don't. That filter holds 2 quarts.

[pontiac6269]

Have 2001 F350 dually , 7.3 automatic that I bought 4 years ago for $3000 with 324,000 miles, has 340,000 miles now. Things I've done are IPR, front calipers, starter and all battery cables and starter relay.

[Mike Davis]

Biggest issue with these was the cam position sensor. Easy to change if it goes out.
Throw a load of injector cleaner in it and put some miles on it. We used to use 1qt of Power Service Systems (silver bottle) and one quart of type F transmission fluid.

Run a good oil like Shell Rotella 15/40 or Chevron Delo 400.

[Chief of the 60's]

Almost 300,000 and never needed to do a cam sensor or injector and changed the fuel filter once in a blue moon. I even totalled a Nissan Altima with it and all that happen to my truck was a small crack in the grille and, as you can see, the front bumper got slightly bent.

[TAKerry]

Nice looking truck Chief

[Chief of the 60's]

Thanks! That was the last time I had it touched up due to rust & rot. Those rear flares are hiding quite a bit. But that truck took me and my hot rod to many tracks up and down the east coast.

[Ben M.]

Thanks all. It's a West Texas truck, so no rust whatsoever. 8 foot bed extended cab 2WD. It's simple enough compared to cars from the last 4-5 years yet overall modern at the same time. Much more modern than my old 6.2 diesel engines - and it starts after one cycle of the key in 25F weather without a block heater.

Originally Posted by pontiac6269

Things I've done are IPR, front calipers, starter and all battery cables and starter relay.

Good things to watch out for. Battery cables and starter relay I've had to do in all of my Ford trucks due to age. I hear a lot about cam position sensors and that job seems simple enough. I'll have to familiarize myself with the rest of the engine.

Brakes still being sticky doesn't surprise me, my old '95 F250 went through calipers and hoses regularly and cooked the rotors if I wasn't careful.

[72projectbird]

Those 7.3 Powerstrokes are some of the best diesel engines to ever roam the earth. Super reliable, parts are fairly cheap, and no emission crap to deal with.

Getting one with such low miles is rare!

[Scott Roberts]

In my spare time, I like to back my 7.3 up to a Starbucks outside patio and let it idle for about 30mins or so.... great engine...

[455Grandville]

Originally Posted by hurryinhoosier62

2001 would make it a PowerStroke AD injector engine with one AE "cackle" injector to aid cold starting. The valve cover sensor has always been a PITA along with changing out the cam position sensor. Every time you change the oil and filter change the fuel filter as well. HEUI injectors need clean oil and clean fuel to operate correctly. At 101,000 mile you might consider pulling the injectors to have the nozzle opening pressure and spring condition checked. 2,800 psi is the static opening pressure. I've seen it as low as 2,300 psi on engine with comparable mileage. If you have low nozzle opening pressure do NOT let the shop simply shim the nozzle springs. Replace the OE springs with DiPaco replacements. Nozzle spring heights over .500 screw up the needle lift.

Do the above advice and you’ll have a very good truck.
Also keep the coolant changed, neglected cooling maintenance causes calvitation with 6.9 & 7.3s.

[Cardo]

Must use Motorcraft coolant additve FW-16 for the cavitation. See owners manual. You add a bottle at coolant change, and 8 oz every so often. It is in the owners manual.

[Hooter]

I've had my '99 7.3 for about 5 years now. Only thing I've had to do is change the injector harness under both valve covers. I also upgraded to a newer style factory Ford air intake /filter system for better filtration. Mine's a 2wd with the 6 speed manual. I'm in the rust belt, so I bought it out of Mississippi so rust free. Plan to drive this thing forever since it's only got 170,000 miles on it.

The crank sensor is a common problem, so I carry a spare in the glove box in case I ever need to change it along the road.

[455Grandville]

Originally Posted by Cardo

Must use Motorcraft coolant additve FW-16 for the cavitation. See owners manual. You add a bottle at coolant change, and 8 oz every so often. It is in the owners manual.

I always used CAT coolant only because I bought a bunch in bulk at an equipment auction.