[gtolarry]

Hello has anyone run an intank pump for a FI unit using a carb? Plans are to run carb first and then switch to FI unit later. Would like to know with tank and pump you are using.
Thanks

[Schurkey]

I don't know why you couldn't use a FI pump, provided it is regulated down to whatever the carb is happy with. I'm sure the pump would appreciate a bypass regulator, rather than dead-head.

[Formulajones]

Yep, do it fairly often. Building one as we speak just like that as a matter of fact.

I use Tanks Inc and depending on the HP level I'll use a 255 up to a 400 LPH pump.

The only thing you need for a conversion from carb to fuel injection is the Aeromotive 13301 regulator. Comes with 2 springs, one for carb pressure (0-15 lbs) and the other spring for fuel injection pressures up to 65 or what ever you need.

So when the time comes it's a simple spring swap in the regulator and you're set.

[Skip Fix]

Mopar buddy has one. I think to go EFI you replace a spring in it. Cured his hot soak issues using it and return line, as well as stabilizing AFR in the heat.

[Formulajones]

Yep, the EFI rarely will have any heat soak or vapor lock issues because they run at such high fuel pressures (35-65 psi)

One thing I should mention however, if running a carb with the bigger fuel pump out back, a return line is a must do, and it has to be large enough for sufficient flow back to the tank. Otherwise you'll get fuel blowing past the regulator, even with the 0-15 psi spring in the 13301 regulator, it can't handle the ~100psi the pump is pushing.

The ones I've done here I find a 1/2" return works fine regulated down to ~6-7 psi for a carb.

On my fathers car we used a 400 lph pump in the tank that supports ~900 hp in a carb application at 6-7 psi. It needed the return line upgraded to 1/2" from the previous 3/8 we had for the 140 lph pump.

[JLMounce]

Yup, absolutely can do it, you just want to make sure the regulator spring is set for your carb's necessary pressure and that your return line is large enough to pass most of the fuel back to the tank without creating extra pressure in the system.

[ErikW]

Run a Tanks tank & Walbro 255 in the wife's T/A. I had FiTech efi on it and switched back to a carb using a Holley 12-803BP Carbureted Bypass Fuel Pressure Regulator. Works great.

[vidguy]

I put a Tanks Inc. tank and the GPA-4 pump in my 75 Formula with a Quadrajet. I run a RobbMc Bypass regulator mounted in the stock Fuel Pump location. 1/2" lines to and from the tank. I set the regulator to about 6 1/2 PSI.

[chiphead]

How are you guys plumbing these Tanks Inc units? Are you using steel hard line or push-loc hose?

[Formulajones]

Both. Depends on the car I'm doing.

Current one I'm doing with 1/2" stainless pre bent lines with factory appearing spring steel wrap from Inline Tube.

Others I've done with 1/2" AN Hose and fittings.

The factory pre bent 1/2" lines from Inline make for a factory appearing and clean install, if that's what you're looking for.

[ErikW]

Originally Posted by chiphead

How are you guys plumbing these Tanks Inc units? Are you using steel hard line or push-loc hose?

6AN Vapor loc hose for feed & return

[pontiac6269]

Using a 87 Buick GN/ Turbo Regal sending unit, pump and hot wire kit in a stock 78 Cutlass tank.

[cnc]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Both. Depends on the car I'm doing.

Current one I'm doing with 1/2" stainless pre bent lines with factory appearing spring steel wrap from Inline Tube.


The factory pre bent 1/2" lines from Inline make for a factory appearing and clean install, if that's what you're looking for.

Yep that's what I've done using the Inline Tube stainless feed and return on my 73 ...the sections that are not stainless are filled with Russel pro classic

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by cnc

Yep that's what I've done using the Inline Tube stainless feed and return on my 73 ...the sections that are not stainless are filled with Russel pro classic

Yep, that's how I do them here. Makes for a very sanitary and trouble free install, and at a glance, the lines you can see, still appears stock.

[vidguy]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

Yep, that's how I do them here. Makes for a very sanitary and trouble free install, and at a glance, the lines you can see, still appears stock.

Similar.
I used TRIDENT "BARRIER LINED" TYPE A1-15 and Push Loc fittings for the first 8 inches or so out of the pump/tank to the stock formed 1/2" S/S line with the spring wrap from Right Stuff, along the Drivers side. Then right at the wheel well, where the line turns upward I installed an Earls ( 5 micron I think), Filter, screwed right into the AN fitting Right Stuff put on the end of the line.
The location makes it easy to get to.

I had the engine in the car so I could not get the remaining 1/2" S/S front piece that is shaped like the original, installed, so I left the original line in place there unused and ran braided PTFE under the headers to the regulator mounted like Chris did, at the fuel pump location.

From there I ran the Barrier Hose to the Carb using a Push Loc and the AN inlet adapter. I didn't use the braided line because I preferred black stock looking over braided in that location.

[Formulajones]

I don't like the shiny braided either. I use the AN black hose here that is lined with PTFE so it's alcohol friendly. Spendy stuff but it works fantastic.

[78w72]

im considering doing an in tank set up with a carb too, the tanks inc units are nice but most their set ups require a big return line & regulator.

aeromotive & i think holley make an in tank module for a stock tank with an internal bypass that does not require a return line & bypass regulator, seems like a easier/cleaner option for some.

[chiphead]

For a system that runs along the passanger's side, does Inline Tube offer any lines, or do I have to form them myself?
Where do you guys get your steel coil from?
Would you guys run pushloc or steel line for a street/strip car?

[Formulajones]

I prefer the return as close to the carb as possible. Yes that requires more line and more money, but it also keeps the fuel moving throughout the line at all times so it isn't sitting stagnant during idle or very low speed conditions and soaking up heat. Internal bypass in the tank doesn't matter so much with fuel injection when you have 60 psi of fuel pressure, but in a carb application with 6-7 psi it becomes an issue and increases vapor lock possibilities when that fuel isn't circulating back to the tank from close to the carb. Most all cars starting in 1971 already incorporate a return line, we are just making it bigger. Usually matches the feed line. Added expense is really the only downfall.

Tanks Inc is really a sweet setup, baffled tank, and in some cases, they offer a larger tank than stock as well, comes powder coated, etc... and most of these old cars could really use a new tank anyway.

[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by chiphead

For a system that runs along the passanger's side, does Inline Tube offer any lines, or do I have to form them myself?
Where do you guys get your steel coil from?
Would you guys run pushloc or steel line for a street/strip car?

Yes both Inline and Right Stuff offer the 1/2" pre bent steel lines to run as per factory with correct bends, they offer the larger clamps to secure it, and it comes with steel coil wrap like factory.

Me personally, I feel it's the better way to go. I use the steel on street and strip cars when ever I can. It costs about identical to buying 50 feet of AN PTFE hose so it's not really cost that's an issue, and the steel line will last a lifetime. The issue becomes whether the steel line can be installed easily with engine in place or without removing the body from the frame.

On F-bodies it's relatively easy because from the factory the fuel lines are 2 sections that split at the sub frame. So install is pretty straight forward.
On an A-body it's a pretty long continuous piece that makes things more difficult.

The AN hose is much easier to install as far as that goes. Just route it where you want and secure it.