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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#21
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I would still just cut it with the 40 and finish with the 80. I never took strictly 40 to completely strip to total bare metal and don't recommend doing so. I used 40 to, as I stated, cut it down to where you see metal but some final layer primer is present. Then finish stripping with 80.
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#22
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But I am so far leaning towards your method. Thanks for the advice! Appreciate it!
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Mike |
#23
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Yup ...poly putty....meant to say that .
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#24
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Do you know if the clean strip discs are any good or as abrasive as the 40 grit? Roughly with a DA, how much hours and discs/paper would I be looking at for doing the full size 66?
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Mike |
#25
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Never tried discs. Might clog up easy, might create too much heat, might do both. You would have to give it a try and see what happens.
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#26
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The clean strip disks are the bomb, but they are expensive and don't last as long as I would like. I wouldn't linger too long on areas of bare metal after they take the paint off. They don't produce much heat at all, but they are pretty course. I love using them, hate buying them.
But ... I've never had the opportunity to use them on outside sheet metal, I've only used them on firewalls, floors etc. |
#27
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Clean strip discs work excellent. I have them for my Angle grinder and a box of small ones for my Angle die grinder. They dont clog easily at all and dont build heat unless you stick to a small spot for a long time, they also leave the surface clean with no grinding Mark's
Use long sweeping motions and you get almost zero heat buildup. I stripped my entire car with them and it was way faster then my D/A could have done. I used 3m brand I think first then switched to some cheaper ones I found on Amazon for half the price, I think the cheaper ones lasted longer!
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1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
#28
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I'll be getting familiar with them again shortly, have to strip a bunch of 15 year old POR 15 off a firewall.
Another nice thing about them is they will tear through bondo very quickly. |
#29
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Around how many did you need to strip the entire car?
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Mike |
#30
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That will not be fun. Sure to be worse than when I had to remove trunk spatter paint from an engine compartment and that was a bitch.
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#31
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For the large flat surfaces I would use paint stripper. D super remover from CTC has worked good for me. The contours and edges basting works well without the fear of distorting the metal. There is a blaster in your area call Finish Line Nia. that will just blast, or continue to epoxy prime and will do a complete paint . Not cheap but reliable nice work.
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#32
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I will check tonight on the brand. They were purple colored.
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1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
#33
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Brand was Duropeak. I bought a 6 pack I think for the angle grinder, used them all. The Dow grinder ones I think I used 5 or 6 for under hood, door jambs ect.
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1969 GTO street strip project 11.1 forged 461, highport heads 1995 Trans-am 420 ci sb 14:1 compression 9"ford 9.89@132 1.34 60ft SOLD! |
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