[79 Phoenix]

I am trying to replace my fuel line from tank to fuel pump with a one-piece line from In Line Tube. The problem I have encountered is routing it through the frame brace and top spring seat so it can get the line to the tank. I have loosened up the driver side body mounts and raised body about 3/4" but still can't maneuver it through...

Has anyone done this with the body on the car?

Is this even possible?

I've seen where some have used stainless braided fuel line hose to run from just in front of lower control arm and snake it back in front of gas tank. Is this a good option?

[Formulajones]

On a bodies I have to get the body up and out of the way as it's one piece and not very maneuverable.

On the f-bodies it's a 2 piece design and easy to replace with the body in place.

Which are you working on?

[JSchmitz]

I did it on my '64 by jacking the left rear of the body up. Ran the lines in through the rear wheel well. I installed two lines. One 1/2" and one 3/8". They are both stainless steel. The 3/8" line went in pretty well. It was easy to bend. The 1/2" was bad! B-Man has a good thread about this.

[61-63]

I've done it on a '63 Catalina and did not undo the body. The gas tank may have been out of the car I don't remember. The drive shaft and rear springs may have been out and the rear end hanging down on the control arms but don't remember that either. You have to thread it in.

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by Formulajones

On a bodies I have to get the body up and out of the way as it's one piece and not very maneuverable.

On the f-bodies it's a 2 piece design and easy to replace with the body in place.

Which are you working on?

I'm working on an A Body--71 GT-37.

Unfortunately, I have already replaced the body mounts and did the rears by cutting holes in the trunk and using regular nuts (cage nuts were shot) ...then re-sealed up the trunk.

When I had all the body mounts out would have been the best time to do this but I didn't realize this would be an issue. Now that they are all back in, I would have to cut open the trunk again which I would rather not do. I've been thinking of cutting it into a two-piece line to make it more maneuverable. Then either re-connect both metal lines at an accessible spot or maybe use stainless braided rubber gas line hose to get through the frame brace and around upper spring brace and back to the tank.

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by JSchmitz

I did it on my '64 by jacking the left rear of the body up. Ran the lines in through the rear wheel well. I installed two lines. One 1/2" and one 3/8". They are both stainless steel. The 3/8" line went in pretty well. It was easy to bend. The 1/2" was bad! B-Man has a good thread about this.

Thanks--I will try to find B Man's thread. As I state above, when I replaced body mounts the cages were rusted out and I cut holes in the trunk again to gain access--which would make a big mess. I would like to avoid if I can.. Then re-assembled using just nuts and lock washers. I would have to cut open trunk access to get to rear body mount nuts loosened...

I wonder if I cut trunk open again I could lift body enough to get this done? At this point with the rear body mount still tight (the rest loose) I can get body up about 3/4" which is not enough.

[b-man]

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...&postcount=229

[indymanjoe]

if you have to open it up again is it an option to weld the nuts in? rather than opening up that area again?

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by 61-63

I've done it on a '63 Catalina and did not undo the body. The gas tank may have been out of the car I don't remember. The drive shaft and rear springs may have been out and the rear end hanging down on the control arms but don't remember that either. You have to thread it in.

Thanks-- Fortunately, my springs, shocks and exhaust are out and rear is hanging low on lower control arms resting on jack stands... All that helps but still not enough maneuverability.

[NeighborsComplaint]

With the body on my '71 GTO, I had to chisel the mounting tab screw off to remove the old line and was able to push the new line back in close to where it was. Of course had to skip the clip and fastener on top of the frame and install one on the side of the frame.

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by NeighborsComplaint

With the body on my '71 GTO, I had to chisel the mounting tab screw off to remove the old line and was able to push the new line back in close to where it was. Of course had to skip the clip and fastener on top of the frame and install one on the side of the frame.

Which mounting tab screw?

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by indymanjoe

if you have to open it up again is it an option to weld the nuts in? rather than opening up that area again?

Unfortunately I don't have a welder... But maybe leave it open until I get the car on the road... Not sure what I will do but good thought. Thanks

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by b-man

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...&postcount=229

WOW, excellent pictures and info! Not sure I can get the body up that high... We'll see. Fortunately the front end is off my car too so I only need to concern myself with firewall back. I'll mull all these suggestions over. Thanks so much!

['ol Pinion head]

Measured the rise of the fuel line where it kicks up in the frame area/ starting of the rearend crossmember on one of my projects, a '71. The rise is near 10 inches. In order to get the front of the fuel line through the frame, the body is going to have to come up at least a foot. That's with the gas tank out, & you will have fun twisting/wrangling the back of the new fuel line without kinking it. With the fenders off, no engine or transmission installed, I have used the same process many times, which takes about 3 hours to get the body up that high.

['ol Pinion head]

Alternative...

If cutting the fuel line into two sections, it would be best if a bubble flair was put on the end of each section of steel line so the line seals better with the rubber hose connection. By marking the original fuel line where it exits the frame front crossmember,mas well as the area of the transmission crossmember, you can better discern an area to make the rubber hose connection. FWIW, Firebirds used such a rubber hose connection on their main fuel line towards the rear of the subframe.

[79 Phoenix]

Originally Posted by 'ol Pinion head

Alternative...

If cutting the fuel line into two sections, it would be best if a bubble flair was put on the end of each section of steel line so the line seals better with the rubber hose connection. By marking the original fuel line where it exits the frame front crossmember,mas well as the area of the transmission crossmember, you can better discern an area to make the rubber hose connection. FWIW, Firebirds used such a rubber hose connection on their main fuel line towards the rear of the subframe.

Roger--Thanks for this info! With my setup there is no way I can get my body 1 ft off frame. I'm thinking that cutting and splicing will be the way I do it. If I do, I'm thinking that the shorter the piece is in the back the easier it would be to maneuver into position. Does that make sense?

I'm thinking an easily accessible place to do the cut would be as indicated in this picture I got from another thread... --Kim

[J.C.you]

I have done aluminum 1/2” line with a fuel filter splice along the inner frame rail several times with the body attached to the frame. If your combo is other than stock your butt meter will thank you with the extra fuel supply on banzai bursts.

[tjs72lemans]

I'll say you'll be fighting yourself and get nowhere with one piece. Even with the frame separated, the line is tricky twisting and turning to route it as the factory did.

[64speed]

Unless this is a concourse resto get a roll of aluminum fuel line, hook a coat hanger to it with duct tape to pull it thru the front frame horn and line up with the fuel pump inlet. Unroll the rest of the fuel line and bend and shape as needed to fit in the factory clips. Bubble flare each end, hooked up whatever attaching hose you’re gonna use front and rear and take off. I did this in my car in less than an hour

[79 Phoenix]

Well, I cut my one-piece line back in front of lower control arm. The shorter rear piece was still tough to wrestle through but I got it in w/o kinking it. I did need to temporarily remove 2 of the floating body bushings but had just enough room to get them out and back in.

I still need to bubble out the line where the rubber splice will go. Also need to install front of the line, install splice and then clamp the fuel and new brake lines in.

Thanks to everyone who helped me work through this. Much appreciated! I will post pictures here when done in case it helps anyone else.