[GTOGEORGE]

Any one looking an upgrade from the 8740 ARP stud, its possible to get a set that will work for a KRE HP head. There are 2 lengths 6 5/8" & 5 1/8" both can be cut at the block side of the threads up to 1 1/2". Just to throw it out there.


GTO George

[GTOGEORGE]

I’m kinda surprised the PA racers ain’t jumping all over this!



GTO George

[Brian Baker]

If you want the upgrade, but ARP doesn't already make a specific "package set" for your application, you can call them and have them piece together a "package set" from individual studs they have on hand for other applications. All you need to know is the length of each stud required and they can do the rest. It's cheaper than having them custom build you a "package set" from scratch. This is what I did for the funny car engine when I decided to keep it at 4 fasteners per cylinder with a dry deck and go with an upgrade to 1/2" studs.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

If you want the upgrade, but ARP doesn't already make a specific "package set" for your application, you can call them and have them piece together a "package set" from individual studs they have on hand for other applications. All you need to know is the length of each stud required and they can do the rest. It's cheaper than having them custom build you a "package set" from scratch. This is what I did for the funny car engine when I decided to keep it at 4 fasteners per cylinder with a dry deck and go with an upgrade to 1/2" studs.

When Eric designed the heads for our Ram Air V engine, he designed the heads around existing ARP 9/16" studs that were on the shelf so to speak. The cost of having special fasteners engineered from scratch and produced is staggering. Similar to why most manufacturers design components with bearings around existing part numbers.

[Skip Fix]

So a question for you metallurgists-does the heat of cutting studs/bolt reduce the heat treating of them?

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by mgarblik

When Eric designed the heads for our Ram Air V engine, he designed the heads around existing ARP 9/16" studs that were on the shelf so to speak. The cost of having special fasteners engineered from scratch and produced is staggering. Similar to why most manufacturers design components with bearings around existing part numbers.

A lot of people don’t/or can’t drill and retap their blocks or enlarge the holes in their heads. On my heads fitting a larger nut for a 9/16” stud is impossible in some areas.


GTO George

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

If you want the upgrade, but ARP doesn't already make a specific "package set" for your application, you can call them and have them piece together a "package set" from individual studs they have on hand for other applications. All you need to know is the length of each stud required and they can do the rest. It's cheaper than having them custom build you a "package set" from scratch. This is what I did for the funny car engine when I decided to keep it at 4 fasteners per cylinder with a dry deck and go with an upgrade to 1/2" studs.

Been tring to get a step up arp2000 or better head stud in 1/2”....... AINT going to happen from arp, not unless you want to remortgage your house! I can get piece together a set for under $550.


GTO George

[GTOGEORGE]

Old stud, new stud cut down and new stud.


GTO George

[Stan Weiss]

GTO George,
Maybe it is just the picture. But can you mic the shaft (where there are no threads) of both old and new studs and tell use what the diameters are?

Stan

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

GTO George,
Maybe it is just the picture. But can you mic the shaft (where there are no threads) of both old and new studs and tell use what the diameters are?

Stan

Why you can’t tell it’s thinner. Gosh serious!
It thicker then the thin part of the threads.


GTO George

[Stan Weiss]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Why you can’t tell it’s thinner. Gosh serious!
It thicker then the thin part of the threads.


GTO George

GTO George,
Yes I could, be just wanted to double check that it was not the picture. The new studs are not for me. Glad you are happy with them.

Stan

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

GTO George,
Yes I could, be just wanted to double check that it was not the picture. The new studs are not for me. Glad you are happy with them.

Stan

I’ll let you know at the end of racing season......or sooner.


GTO George

[Brian Baker]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Been tring to get a step up arp2000 or better head stud in 1/2”....... AINT going to happen from arp, not unless you want to remortgage your house! I can get piece together a set for under $550.


GTO George

I said 1/2" in my original post but I meant the next diameter up from OEM. Late night post while working 12a-8a shift LOL.

Anyhow, this is about what I paid ARP for my custom set for the funny car engine. It was about double what a standard set would run, but less than half for a "package set" had I got them to make it from scratch. They wanted more than $1100 for a set of studs if I had gone that route, so we pieced together a set from off the shelf studs intended for other applications.

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Brian Baker

I said 1/2" in my original post but I meant the next diameter up from OEM. Late night post while working 12a-8a shift LOL.

Anyhow, this is about what I paid ARP for my custom set for the funny car engine. It was about double what a standard set would run, but less than half for a "package set" had I got them to make it from scratch. They wanted more than $1100 for a set of studs if I had gone that route, so we pieced together a set from off the shelf studs intended for other applications.

Like I said in post no.6 everyone can’t drill and tap their block or drill out the hole in the head. I can’t fit a larger nut then 9/16” (socket size) on some spots in my head, a 9/16” stude would need a 11/16” nut. I’m not sure what other heads take (length of head stud) but my KRE HP heads take only 2 sizes of stud. A ARP 1/2” 8740 stud is 190,000 psi a ARP2000 is 220,000 psi.


GTO George

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

So a question for you metallurgists-does the heat of cutting studs/bolt reduce the heat treating of them?

I actually didn't get the studs that hot cutting, I suppose the bottom row get hotter during engine operation.


GTO George

[Elarson]

Originally Posted by Skip Fix

So a question for you metallurgists-does the heat of cutting studs/bolt reduce the heat treating of them?

450 degrees is roughly where you start any sort of altering of properties. If the cutting process causes any blue coloring, you're in the zone that you don't want to be in.

Eric

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by Elarson

450 degrees is roughly where you start any sort of altering of properties. If the cutting process causes any blue coloring, you're in the zone that you don't want to be in.

Eric

Ill have to put my temperature gun on the stud end after i cut another one for sh_ts & giggles!
Im positive it won't get close to 450 degrees.


GTO George

[Stan Weiss]

GTO George,
Are you cutting they dry or using a lubricant / coolant?

Stan

[GTOGEORGE]

Originally Posted by GTOGEORGE

Any one looking an upgrade from the 8740 ARP stud, its possible to get a set that will work for a KRE HP head. There are 2 lengths 6 5/8" & 5 1/8" both can be cut at the block side of the threads up to 1 1/2". Just to throw it out there.


GTO George

Obviously this studs will work on other heads......im not sure the sizes other heads would need BUT I'm sure you guys can do the math!


GTO George

[Elarson]

Originally Posted by Stan Weiss

GTO George,
Maybe it is just the picture. But can you mic the shaft (where there are no threads) of both old and new studs and tell use what the diameters are?

Stan

The new studs have a reduced shank diameter. That's actually stronger in tension than the full size shank. The cross sectional area of the reduced shank matches the area in the threads and significantly reduces the stress concentration caused by the sudden step from big shank to the smaller threads.

Eric