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THE LOBBY A gathering place. Introductions, sports, showin' off your ride, birthday-anniversary-milestone, achievements, family oriented humor. |
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#1
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Removing spiral nails
Hi all,
I am replacing deck boards and made the mistake of listening to the advice of the guy at Lowes who recommended I use spiral nails to secure the decking. The first one bent while I was hammering it in, only about 1/4 of the way . Not even through to the beam yet. I cannot get that sucker back out. Have now pulled the head off it. Tried vice grips. No luck there either. Thinking I'm going to have to cut it off with a dremmel and then pound the remainder deep enough to put some wood puddy over it. Then get some regular nails for this job. What a PITA. Any insights? (As you might be able to tell, I am not particularly skilled at carpentry tasks). Thanks!
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1969 Judge, 4-speed, CR/Parchment, Quasi-Survivor, #'s match - under restoration |
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#2
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I tend to use square drive deck screws.
george
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"...out to my ol'55, I pulled away slowly, feeling so holy, god knows i was feeling alive"....written by Tom Wait from the Eagles' Live From The Forum |
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#3
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I don't even think about using nails anymore, I wood screw all my wood projects now. With the quality of drill/drivers, it's a no brainer.
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#4
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Try the vice grips again and attempt to "unscrew" the nail as you pull it out. If you think these are hard to remove try removing a ring shank nail !
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#5
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I didn't even think that spiral nails were galvanized or rated for exterior use. The square headed deck screws also have a reverse spin component on the upper shaft next to the head that helps keep the deck board from lifting.
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#6
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I'm with these guys. Ease of use is the primary benefit. But being able to get the screws out if needed is a second. I had a possum die under my deck, and because I could remove a couple of boards, I didn't have to wait until the thing finally quit stinking. BTW, removing that sucker still wasn't any picnic.
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#7
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Ditto what bluebandit said about ring shank nails! And I wonder if the op is actually describing those instead of spiral nails? The only size spiral nails I am familiar with are the #8 siding nails which would be way too small for decking.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads,Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.72 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#8
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I've used ring shake up 20 pdf. They are a bear to get out. I do not like spiral nails. Very hard to remove once bent. Yes vice grips. I've also drilled beside them to remove but leaves a void. I like deck screws for treated wood. We always used 2x6s for decking seemed to last the longest. Also we looked for treated wood that had the highest chemical retention factor. Its printed on the tag at boards end.
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#9
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I have had success removing nails with a claw hammer by tapping the claw with another hammer onto the base of the nail then twisting the hammer over on it's side instead of pulling the nail straight up. If you are concerned about marring the deck wood you can lay a thin piece of wood on the side you are bending the nail towards. Is this clear as mud?
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Remember no one is perfect. Everyone's butt has a crack in it! |
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#10
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Yeah they still make screw nails large enough for decking and framing,their even available in coils and strips for framing guns. I used them on my deck and eventually they started backing out and getting loose. Used screws to replace them. One deck I have is built on ground level and the joists and supports are from some treated lumber that's 40+ years old. Don't know what they treated it with back then but it will flat rust away the "lifetime coating" decking screws. Stuff now days seems to rot as soon as its installed.
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#11
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picked up a couple of beautiful Ash pallets with those $#*&$ things. Got a scar to show for it!
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"At no time did we exceed 175 mph.” Dan Gurney's truthful response to his and Brock Yate's winning of the first ever Cannonball Baker Sea-to-Shining Sea... Still have my 1st Firebird 7th Firebird 57 Starchief |
#12
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Break or cut the nail off and hammer it flush. Drive a 16 penny galvanized nail in right alongside it so the nail head covers the broken off nail. Pre-drill if you’re not confident you can drive the nail straight.
Screws are better but a galvanized nail will hold for 20 years or longer too. |
#13
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Yea, the old formula for treated wood, cca, lasted a long time; I have some dock boards at the lake that are 40 years old and still going strong. I have seen the new stuff, acq, rot in 2 years or less. Another case of the environmental police screwing things up. We are probably using 10 times the lumber to do the same job not to mention the extra chemicals.
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69 Bird w/1970 400 block(409 cubes), #64 heads, hyd. roller, Q-jet by Jeff E., original interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, street driven muscle. 3800 lbs. race weight. Best, 11.39 @118, my son's car. 79 T/A w/463, Scat crank, Eagle rods, Icon pistons, Lunati solid roller, 262/270, KRE 325 heads,Northwind intake, QF950 carb, full interior, ps, pdb, th350, and 3.73 gears. Pump gas, 3650 lbs. race weight. 10.72 @ 126 so far... no tuning yet. |
#14
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Only thing I didn't like about the old formula was ... you did NOT want to get a splinter from that stuff, would get infected in like two hours.
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#15
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I use a pair of end cutting pliers to remove nails even when the heads are cut off. You grab the nail flush with the wood. Then just push or pull using the round shape of the nose of the pliers to leverage it out.
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"Honestly the car will only be there for a few weeks, OK maybe a month at the most" |
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#16
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Had replaced "Masonite" Siding last Summer; Spiral nailed. Here's how to remove.
hammer a strong "putty knife" to cut material under nail head. Grip nailhead with long dikes, lever-pry up the head, even a little bit is good. Gingerly:Then use dikes to pull nail out, and CCW twist helps. Smartly: use claw hammer to get under head and rock the hammer. Must have removed a few hundred Spiral nails. (Reused most of them!) |
#17
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A Dr we were working for wanted a new huge treated deck. I asked him the question,will the chemicals in the treated wood come out when wet? Will the chemicals be absorbed into the skin? Especially children? We did not build the deck. Yes the boards 20-30yrs ago would burn your hands. Splinters were common.
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#18
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I use the deck screws. Treated lumber: old style was with arsnic new style is a copper sulfide.
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If you built it, drive it. red 62 Tempest total stock restoration. white 62 Tempest modified, 61 389 Tri-Power, and a conventional drive train. |
#19
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Not exactly the same thing as a deck but I have built 100's of picnic tables in the past 30 years. 2 x 6 construction. When I started building them I used the spiral nails to hold the top and the seats on. The spiral nails never held that great and the boards would come loose from moving the tables around and the wood warping. For years now I have used the square drive or torx bit screws and have no issues. I highly recommend them.
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Todd Sedlmeier Who ever thought pinewood derby cars would lead to this! October 2004 HPP Shootout participate http://www.highperformancepontiac.co...out/index.html 86 Grand Prix 535 High Port 8.93 @ 153 65 GTO 433 High Port 12.04 @ 113 |
#20
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I am pretty sure the reverse threading at the top of these screws is to pull the material of the deck board (specifically made for composites) back into the board itself, thus there is no 'tear out' material left over at the top of the hole. Makes for a cleaner job.
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