[vamman1]

Just replaced Master Relay. Have replaced the resistor and regulator.
Still not getting power to switch.
This was an AC car until a previous owner stripped it out. It will go back soon but in the meantime, can't get it working. It stopped working at some point last year. Because the AC is missing, I am using the non AC Master Relay with Brown, Black, and Red with White Stripe wires. Only power on red.

What am I doing wrong? If I connect blower direct, it works.

Again because the AC is missing, I'm using a 3 prong resistor. Red wire not used. Is this wrong?

Thanks

[BVR421]

Just a few things to think about.
power to what switch? the one on the dash?
if so does it activate the relay?
if so does the relay have 12v out to the resister pack?
Dont forget the separate fused wire direct from alternater to high speed relay on blower motor. The fuse holder is usually toast on those.
Also try moving the AC and temp levers back and forth with switch on in 1,2,3,hispd. As Im sure you know GM long ago decided its customers are not capable of deciding what to do with a heater so to 'help' us the heater should not work unless certain criteria are first met involving the positioning of the AC/heat vent controls and temp lever.
Good luck those can be a pain to get going.

[vamman1]

Thanks for the reply.
By switch I mean the 4 speed switch on the heater.

One question I have is about the separate fused line direct to high speed relay.
What colour is this wire "normally"?

I do not remember seeing such a wire, even last year when I worked on it and got it going somehow. Electrical ain't my thing!

[boltbuster]

The fused (30 amp) wire coming off of the alternator is black with a red stripe. I have a 67 with factory A/C. FYI--the wire carrying power to the switch in the dash is dark brown, at least on my A/C setup. Good luck.

[vamman1]

Thanks, will have a go at it this weekend.

[vamman1]

Still no power getting to heater switch.

Anyone have a picture of the wire from alternator to high speed relay on motor???

The fun went out of fixing this a long time ago.

Power coming into the switch is the two browns? No power on those.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

On most of these cars low speed fan power comes from the fuse box. It is switched power, meaning key/igniton switch has to be on. Fuse box power runs the lower speeds. Then when fan switch is flipped to high it trips the high speed blower relay. The high speed blower relay then powers the fan with the wire coming from the alternator instead of fuse box power.
If there's no power at all to heater controls, check for power going in and coming out of ac/heat/fan fuse in fuse box.
Got to get power to the heater controls then the ac/heat/defrost selector lever moves power to the fan switch.
Get the fan working on low speeds, then worry about alternator wire and high speed fan relay. The fan has to work on low speeds before it can turn on/work the high speed relay.

If worse comes to worse. Make up a jumper wire with a fuse in it. Run it from a power terminal in the fuse box sraight to the heater controls and see if anything works.

[Old Goat 67]

Vamman,

Here is a page from the 67 manual showing the AC wiring only.

Notice that the brown lead on the right from the fuse box was only used to operate the master relay when the system was not in the Off position only.

Once the relay was energized, all power to the fan and compressor was derived from it when the relay was closed. A little confusing on first glance, but that is how it operates. If the fan switch is in Low when the master relay is closed, power gets to the fan by coming from the relay, then through all the resisters to impede current flow. Fan speed 2, 3 and Hi reduce the resisters one at a time till it's a straight feed.

How much of the original wiring is still there? Please disregard crappy Edelbrock sticker, LONG gone! Temporary insanity!

If you need help, PM me with your phone #, I have a MagicJack. I can call you for free.

Charles

[vamman1]

I HATE ELECTRICAL!

Thanks guys, great info!

Will get back at it later this week.

[wytnyt]

does anyone have a wiring diagram of the wiper circuit?
thx

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by wytnyt

does anyone have a wiring diagram of the wiper circuit?
thx

Might have been best to start a new thread for this.
I don't have a 67 diagram myself. As far as I know there's not been one posted here at PY either. Hadn't found one searching anyhow.
Also need to post what problem you're having.
They're usually not hard to figure out without a diagram. The most complicated was two speed with wash, and it only has four wires. Hot from ignition switch goes through fuse box and straight out to the wiper motor with a jumper to wash if so equipped. Then you had the ground wires that completed the circuit coming from the wiper motor back inside to the wiper switch. Three wires at most on them: low, high, and wash.
The wiper switch grounding to the dash is the final connection in the circuit.

So start another thread if you have to.
I know George has 67 diagrams and I suspect Charles does too

[Old Goat 67]

I agree with QuickSilver.

[wytnyt]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

I agree with QuickSilver.

your right,,just figured id ask while the diagram folder was open

[vamman1]

Back at it last night.
All original wiring seems to be there around the fuse block.

So I checked for power at the heater controls... nope.

Checked for power at the fuse block..... NO!

Everything else has power.

When checking, is it sufficient to have the ignition on accessory only? Afraid to burn up my points.

[johnta1]

I'm not sure the blower will work on accessory.

[Old Goat 67]

Yes it does. I thought sure it did.

I couldn't check mine because it's all apart, But I got Gary (GT182) up in Delaware to go check his.

Gary said to tell you all

Tell you got a dumb Yankee to run out in the snow to check it out. LOL

Now, that's what you call teamwork.

I didn't say that, he did!

Charles

[vamman1]

Hey Charles,
yawl take it easy tonight now with dem dere Saints winning the Superbowl!

Congrats!

[vamman1]

Gary, you got snow?

Well raise my rent.

["QUICK-SILVER"]

Originally Posted by vamman1

When checking, is it sufficient to have the ignition on accessory only? Afraid to burn up my points.

Get your test light hooked up and ready to do some checking. Then turn the switch to run position. It wont take but a second to check both fuse ends and retainer clips.
Not enough time to hurt the points.
You could take the point lead wire off the coil, or stick something between the point contacts if you need a bunch of testing time with switch in run position.

Diagrams for some of the newer models show a dedicated wire from the ignition switch to the heater fuse. IDK on the 67. I bet somebody here knows though.

[vamman1]

Originally Posted by "QUICK-SILVER"

Get your test light hooked up and ready to do some checking. Then turn the switch to run position. It wont take but a second to check both fuse ends and retainer clips.
Not enough time to hurt the points.
You could take the point lead wire off the coil, or stick something between the point contacts if you need a bunch of testing time with switch in run position.

Diagrams for some of the newer models show a dedicated wire from the ignition switch to the heater fuse. IDK on the 67. I bet somebody here knows though.

Thanks!

Just a note, this was working last fall. Then I had alternator trouble and it was putting out 20-25V. This is when the blower stopped working. Then I decided to take the car off the frame and did not address the blower but had the alternator rebuilt. So now the car is back together and no heater blower. I did connect direct to the blower for a second and it did turn over so the blower is working. You mentioned an inline fuse somewhere for the heater circuit? I can not find anything resembling a fuse anywhere. It would almost seem that a fuse should have burnt out somewhere. Fuse is OK in the block but couldn't pick up any voltage with the meter.

We had this car completely disassembled and replaced the heater core, etc etc so is it possible a ground is missing under the dash or something like that???

Did I mention I hate electrical?