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#41
08-21-2010, 05:46 PM
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Correction, I meant tail light harness unplugged.
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#42
08-21-2010, 06:52 PM
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Unplug the headlight switch. Hook your test light to battery and probe the wires that go to parking lights. The one with a short to ground will make the test light come on.
If you use a multi meter: check resistance to ground on these wires. A dead short will give the lowest reading on your meter. Lowest reading being what ever the meter shows when you touch the probes together. Remember dash lights are powered by the tail light fuse. Power comes from the headlight switch back to the fuse box before going to the dash lights. So pulling the dash light fuse will take dash lights out of the equation, BUT not the wire from headlight switch to fuse box. Hope that made some sense.
__________________
All the federales say,they could've had him any day They only let him slip away, out of kindness...I suppose Poncho & Lefty |
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#43
08-21-2010, 07:08 PM
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By pulling the dash light fuse you mean park light fuse? This is the 3rd fuse down on the left side that blows. I see the brake light fuse under that one, and the brake lights are working fine.
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#44
08-21-2010, 08:02 PM
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Dash light fuse is the little short fuse. Dark green wire from headlight switch carries power to it when lights are turned on. So dash lights are actually fused twice. just unplugging the headlight switch will rule out dash lights since it has a seperate wire.
Dark brown wire is power out to parking lights. The diagram I have shows one wire (dk brown) out of headlight switch to parking lights. Then a splice/split at the rear body ribbon connector. If it is two wires in one terminal (like diagram shows) , that'll make testing a problem unless you cut one of the wires to seperate front lights from rear lights. Just have to look and see what you've got. First just unplug the body ribbon up front so you can check it seperate. Last edited by "QUICK-SILVER"; 08-21-2010 at 08:14 PM. Reason: Doing first things last |
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#45
08-21-2010, 08:52 PM
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OK, thanks and I assume by body ribbon up front you mean the front light harness that plugs into the fuse block in the engine bay. I did unplug that last week and the rear tail light harness and the fuse was still blowing.
Ive printed your last post and will hopefully have another look this week. Electrical prblem are difficult to deal with. Thank you Quick Silver and everyone else. |
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#46
08-21-2010, 09:27 PM
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Body ribbon
Was talking about the connector somewhere around fuse box, left kick panel area, under carpet, etc.. The front plugin for the body ribbon (flat wire) harness that goes to rear/trunk.
The diagram I have shows the dk brown wire from headlight switch and the wire that goes out front in one terminal at the body ribbon connector. That would be on the dash harness side of the connector.  better or worse
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#47
08-24-2010, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
I've got just a little time Wednesday morning to look at this thing, so I plan on unplugging the intermediate harness from the dash harness. I assume there is no need to unplug the front light harness again ( which is out on the firewall side of fuse block)? I unplugged it recently and no difference. QUICK SILVER, I thought if there is still a shorting wire minus the intermediate, then when I have more time I'll test individual wires from the switch as noted above. So no need to unplug front harness again? |
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#48
08-25-2010, 12:57 AM
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Quote:
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#49
08-25-2010, 01:10 PM
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Quote:
As I was getting prepared to post this, I re read this post of yours and did not get it the first time, but now it jumped out at me. Im looking at my `70 owners manual and 3rd fuse down from left is the "Tail lamps, front park lamps, front and rear side marker lamps, license lamp". As you said and the owners manual says, 5th fuse on left or short bottem fuse is for the "Instrument panellamps, ash tray, clock lamp". So if i remove this 5th fuse and replace the 3rd thats been blowing what will that tell me? |
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#50
08-25-2010, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
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#51
08-25-2010, 02:09 PM
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Thank you, and I just ran by the garage for a minute do try that. With the 5th small fuse out and a new 3rd replaced, the 3rd fuse still blowed. So looks like a short in the instrument light wire somewhere between the headlight switch and fuse block.
Intermediate harness now eliminated with the 5th small fuse removed? This is possibly beginning to make a little sense, because when I replaced the headlight switch several months ago, everything seemed fine. Now recently after 2 MORE switches, still not resolved, so possibly problem originating in the wires near the headlight switch? I just messaged a friend about borrowing a test light to individually go through at the unplugged switch end like you suggested. thank you a lot! |
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#52
08-25-2010, 02:53 PM
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Quote:
With the headlight switch unplugged you can narrow it down to the dash light wire or parking light feed wire. Definitely give the wires a good look at around the headlight switch. |
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#53
08-26-2010, 08:31 AM
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Im back on this thing this morning since there is a delay in my contract at work.
I just came in from the garage this morning, and used the test light loaned to me and the only wire from the headlight plug in that makes the test light go on is the red one. Any idea what this tells me QuickSilver? |
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#54
08-26-2010, 08:34 AM
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When testing I left out the fuse thats been blowing, probably makes no difference, but thought I better mention that?
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#55
08-26-2010, 10:14 AM
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Red wire is headlight power wire. Brown wire with white stripe is tail/park light power wire. It would check hot if you put the fuse back in.
Looking for a short on your car, you use the test light kind of backwards. Hook the light to power then when you touch a wire that's grounded out the light will come on. The brown wire is the one you'll be checking. This is where connectors need unpluged so you can narrow down/pinpoint what section of wire has a short in it. Park lights & marker lights will have to be removed when checking front and rear harnesses. Intermediate harness needs unplugged (front and rear) to isolate it. Same with front light harness. You should end up with a single section of wire that makes the light come on. That's when you start looking for bare, burnt, pinched, shorted for what ever reason. Something with my PC is on the blink. We may have to take this up by phone. |
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#56
08-26-2010, 10:44 AM
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thanks, when I checked the switch harness end I had the test light connected to the postive side on the cars battery post.
So now, remove all lights from front and rear, and markers too. Unplug the front od intermediate harness. I looked at that yesterday and could not see where it unplugs. I did pull the carpet back and saw where the harness runs up the side of the fuse block, but could not see the end and plug in. I assume the fuse block will have to be loosened or removed to get to it? Since the front light harness has already been unplugged and the tail section too at the trunk location, those are already ruled out? If so, getting that intermediate harness unplugged at BOTH ends is now critical? Then test the brown wire with or without the fuse back in place? |
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#57
08-26-2010, 11:33 AM
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Doesn't matter about the fuse. It and the brown/white wire from fuse box to headlight switch are done ruled out. Because the fuse doesn't blow untill you turn the lights on.
Not sure what to say about the front intermediate plug. Might ask in the 70~72 tech section about that. |
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#58
08-26-2010, 03:14 PM
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OK and I believe I follow you.
I am waiting on some info from the 70 - 72 GTO / Lemans tech to understand how to unplug the intermediate harness at the front. Is there any reason I cannot just test into the rear of the intermediate, in the trunk area, while just keeping the front plugged in, since those brown, brown/ white wires are ruled out from F box to switch? |
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#59
08-26-2010, 03:31 PM
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Brown with white stripe power feed wire, from fuse box, is the only one that's ruled out.
Brown 'out' of switch is all tied together untill you unplug the different harnesses. I think i posted earlier that the diagram I have shows two wires in one terminal at the dash to intermediate harness connector/plugin. The wire from the headlight switch and the wire going forward to the firewall, for the front lights, are in the same terminal. Of course the other side of the connector is the wire going to the rear. This is where you may have to cut one of the wires to find a short. That is if the short ends up being in the front. You'll have to see if the short is from the connector to the headlight switch or connector to firewall. Have you got a wiring diagram for the car? There is one posted here at PY if you'll do a search for 70 GTO wiring diagram. |
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#60
08-26-2010, 03:40 PM
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Wait a minute
Quote:
From one of your later post. "when I checked the switch harness end I had the test light connected to the postive side on the cars battery post". Test light hooked to battery (+) post and touch a hot wire....nothing should happen. It should only light up when you touch something with continuity to ground. Like a shorted out wire or even resistance through a light bulb. |
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