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#1
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Pulling the oil pan on my 67' GTO. Is this do-able in the car?
Is pulling the oil pan in my 67' GTO while its in the car do able? I know its not ideal but I really don't want to yank the engine right now.
I thought I remember doing it years ago while it was in the car but it was kind of a MF'er. Should I plan on pulling the tranny, bellhousing and all the other fun stuff out that goes with, to get at it? I'm just trying to get a plan and a realistic amount of time laid out before I start....
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-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#2
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I don't remember how much room you have at the firewall, but you might be able to raise the engine high enough if you remove distributor, fan shroud,maybe fan too, loosen/remove the motor mount bolts, exhaust flange bolts, tranny crossmember bolts, and tranny linkage if needed. It is kind of like a partial engine pull but without draining radiator, moving ac compressor, etc. I did it with either a 68 lemans or 69 GTO 40 yrs ago to change the oil pump, There was enough flex in my radiator hoses to leave them.
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#3
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By the time you get it high enough..... you might as well pull it.....
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Troy Rockaway NJ 67 GTO 400HO / TKX 3.27 1ST GEAR-.72OD / 3.36 POSI HOTCHKIS/UMI/BILSTEIN |
#4
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Quote:
More trouble than its worth in my opinion. If lying on your back trying to scrape gaskets and then trying to get it all to seal up is okay for you, give it a go. |
#5
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MAJOR PIA and much safer on a lift with the Kent-Moore lifting tool but as was said, it will still be good of a job vs just pulling the engine.
I have pulled the engine on a GTO in 3 hours, by myself, not busting my butt. Then it will be done right. If your car is an Auto Trans, will be even faster. Tom V.
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"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#6
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When I tried taking the pan off of mine I had to remove the flywheel. By the time you do all of that you would be better off removing the engine.
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#7
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The only reason I ever pulled the pan without pulling the motor was because I didn't have the $$$$$ to rent the hoist. It was either rent the hoist, or pay for the oil pump and gasket- so I know what a tight budget means. Plus I was young and didn't mind laying on my back working under the car in the driveway, with the motor lifted by a screw jack
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#8
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Ahhh dammit I guess ill pull it.....
__________________
-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#9
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Karl |
#10
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I remember on my 65 I had a number of engines in it. I could remove the engine (without tranny)without taking off the hood. Snugging up the hyd. hoist chain and carefully upandback.I removed the carb and dist.Usually by myself.
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#11
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Last time I r&r'd the engine in my '67 (2011) a friend showed me the sdbob trick. We left the hood on, and lifted the engine up, pivoted it sideways, and it came right out. And went back in the same way. No trans or dizzy in place, but the carb and intake were on, as well as the log manifolds. Went head to head on a diagonal bias with a tight chain. Will do it this way again, as I hate lining up body panels.
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Jeff |
#12
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Quote:
Ive pulled and installed the engine without pulling body panels before. I typically use a chain hoist and it comes right out.
__________________
-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#13
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Quote:
He is saying that when the Poster removes the engine from the car, the Poster has found a way to not have to remove the hood to get the engine out of the car. I would remove the hood as this is your first Rodeo on this stuff. Also make sure you have every wire disconnected from the engine, Ground straps, etc. The engine STILL SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM THE CAR and then the engine put on a engine stand (safest way) before removing the oil pan for the work required on that deal. Tom V.
__________________
"Engineers do stuff for reasons" Tom Vaught Despite small distractions, there are those who will go Forward, Learning, Sharing Knowledge, Doing what they can to help others move forward. |
#14
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I've done it two ways, removing the pan in the car, with a grease pit, and lying on my back with jack stands. Having it over a pit is much easier than lying on your back. That being said, getting all the seals to stay in their correct places while you finesse the pan back into place upside down is no picnic plus the oil just keeps dripping on you all the while your under there.
You have to remove everything but the exhaust pipes in chassis so if you just remove the pipes you can have it out in less than a half an hour and not have oil dripping on you all during the process It's so much easier to seal the pan properly looking down on it with the engine on a stand, rather than looking up at it in chassis. I have no problem taking the hood off myself, but if you have a strong aversion to doing that it can be left in place as long as your using an engine crane and short couple the chain. I always use a chain fall to pull engines so there is no option about leaving the hood on when you use that type of lifting equipment. Doing it in chassis won't save you much work, if any at all. The chances to have an oil leak afterwards doing it in chassis are probably doubled and the job is much more trying in chassis. My vote is to pull it and only have to do the job once. |
#15
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If it were an F-body do it in the car is ok, but on the A-bodies just pull it. It's only about 1 hour of difference & will be so much easier to work on out of the car. All you'll be doing is cussing about getting stuff in the way if you do it in the car. Everything will seem to be right where you need to be. Pull it & save your self a lot of headaches in the process . It won't save any time by doing it in the car but will be so much of a better job if you pull it out. Much cleaner & a lot less PIA of a job out of the car. @ years ago I TRIED to replace an oil pump in my 73 GTO in the car, after 2 hours of fighting to try to get things out of the way to get the pan off , I pulled the engine out of the car. It would have saved me the 2 hours of fighting with it if it would have just pulled it out in the first place. So my vote is & will always be PULL IT OUT, also much safer.
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#16
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Easy way to get the hood out of the way without removing the hood.
Remove the front hood hinge bolt that attaches the hood hinge to the fender. Slightly loosen the rear hinge bolt. Lift the hood and rotate it back to the windshield.
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GOOD IDEAS ARE OFTEN FOUND ABANDONED IN THE DUST OF PROCRASTINATION |
#17
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If you leave 2 bolts in the hinges. How can you rotate it?
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#18
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Yeah if I do it im just going to pull it. Pulling and reinstalling the hood is a 20 minute job for me and my Dad and with my **** bag chineese hinges the alingment sucks anyhow....
__________________
-1967 GTO HO Restomod. PKMM 433ci, SilverSport T56 Magnum 6spd, Moser 9", SC&C and a bunch of other pro touring goodies - Build Thread http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...615847&page=23 |
#19
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Good decision to pull the motor. Remember, the real job is getting the pan back on without leaks. Removing the pan is the easy part.
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#20
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What Tom and Sirrotica said. Yes, pull the motor. What I meant is that when I pulled the motor, I lifted it up and then pivoted it sideways so the passenger side head was parallel to the firewall. Then up and out. This was on my '67 GTO with the hood left on and not loosened. But you need to know what you're doing and go slow and easy. There is nothing to be gained by trying to do an in-car pan replacement, and a lot to risk. Pulling the engine is less work and the job will turn out much better.
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Jeff |
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