[supersport#69]

Here are some engine part numbers but not sure that’s going to help on what cam Pontiac installed.

[Kenth]

1968 WS got the 068 cam from factory.

[Greg Reid]

If you trust the shop, let him do what he does for a living. I had a set done at a place called Dover Cylinder head a few years ago. Heads are all they do. Not sure they have any in Cali but as I recall, it was less than $300 to drop off and pick up when ready.
At any rate, if he knows what he's doing, he'll know what to do!

[1968GTO421]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

If you trust the shop, let him do what he does for a living. I had a set done at a place called Dover Cylinder head a few years ago. Heads are all they do. Not sure they have any in Cali but as I recall, it was less than $300 to drop off and pick up when ready.
At any rate, if he knows what he's doing, he'll know what to do!

That's the key, if he knows what he is doing. Check here and with guys you know for a head/machine shop that has a good rep. Being in CA you should be able to find a really good one.

[mgarblik]

Can the OP's heads be "fixed up" and a burned valve, (if that's the issue), ground and put back in and put back on the road for a couple hundred dollars or even less? Absolutely! Will it run better than it does now? Most likely. Fixing a burned valve, installing a set of new seals and running a scotchbrite over the deck and jamming it back together can be done and is done hundreds of times a day all over the country on all kinds of engines. Is it a proper repair? Absolutely not. It all depends on budget, expected outcome, and owners wishes. Here is a ball park breakdown of what a quality shop in the Midwest would do and charge for a proper set of heads. Thermal clean and check a pair of heads for cracks, magnaflux or pressure test. $200.00 Surface heads for flatness $150.00 Install guide liners and cut OE guides for PC seals $200.00 Cut seats for basic 3 angle $150.00 check and set-up new springs, shims included and assemble $150.00. So that's the labor side $850.00 labor. And nobody is getting rich doing it. It would take an experienced machinist a full day to do a set of these heads. Parts from Butler or Summit/Jegs. Low end cheapie valves $200.00 a set decent set of springs $70.00 retainers/keepers $50.00 PC seals $30.00 So minimum $350.00 for parts . So that's where the $1200.00 comes from for a decent set of refurbished heads with low/medium quality parts. It's not 1965 anymore. This is all assuming the heads check out good as far as casting condition. Any major defect and the head is scrap unless an SD, HO or Ram air head. That's why an iron replacement head is so desperately needed. I hope you can get back on the road for a whole lot less but this is typical. Best of luck.

[supersport#69]

The shop doing them only does heads. He seemed pretty knowledgeable on the phone. I’m not about to cheap out on the heads for a car I’m excited about owning. I hope it’s not over 800-900 but whatever is right I’m doing.

[geeteeohguy]

IMO, having seen this car, keeping the original heads is the way to go. The entire rest of the drivetrain is numbers matching, and it's a fairly rare car, being an HO, 4 speed, and black with a red interior. That said, I personally would NOT have hardened seats installed, as Pontiac seats are fairly hard to begin with (compared with some other makes of the era) and will work just fine on a street driven car. I WOULD upgrade to hardened seats if I were pulling a boat or a trailer for extended periods of time with the engine under a lot of load. In the OP's case, I think the car will be a weekend cruiser/street car, so a stock spec valve job should be fine. I've driven probably 300,000+ miles on Pontiacs without hardened valve seats with no issue.....but I never pulled a boat or trailer.

[mgarblik]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

IMO, having seen this car, keeping the original heads is the way to go. The entire rest of the drivetrain is numbers matching, and it's a fairly rare car, being an HO, 4 speed, and black with a red interior. That said, I personally would NOT have hardened seats installed, as Pontiac seats are fairly hard to begin with (compared with some other makes of the era) and will work just fine on a street driven car. I WOULD upgrade to hardened seats if I were pulling a boat or a trailer for extended periods of time with the engine under a lot of load. In the OP's case, I think the car will be a weekend cruiser/street car, so a stock spec valve job should be fine. I've driven probably 300,000+ miles on Pontiacs without hardened valve seats with no issue.....but I never pulled a boat or trailer.

I would tend to agree with you IF the existing seat area is not already badly recessed. His machinist will know that at a glance.

[supersport#69]

Originally Posted by geeteeohguy

IMO, having seen this car, keeping the original heads is the way to go. The entire rest of the drivetrain is numbers matching, and it's a fairly rare car, being an HO, 4 speed, and black with a red interior. That said, I personally would NOT have hardened seats installed, as Pontiac seats are fairly hard to begin with (compared with some other makes of the era) and will work just fine on a street driven car. I WOULD upgrade to hardened seats if I were pulling a boat or a trailer for extended periods of time with the engine under a lot of load. In the OP's case, I think the car will be a weekend cruiser/street car, so a stock spec valve job should be fine. I've driven probably 300,000+ miles on Pontiacs without hardened valve seats with no issue.....but I never pulled a boat or trailer.

I hope to hear good news when they’re inspected. I’d prefer just rebuild them as is with no modifying or drastically shaving of the surface. I should know in about 7-10 days.
I’ll post some pictures of the heads after they come off.

[STEELCITYFIREBIRD]

Your going down a rabbit hole
Diagnose WHY
you have low pressure in that cylinder.

[supersport#69]

He claims he already did and believes it’s a burnt valve. He’s been doing this stuff since the 60s/70s. He’s always got these old cars in his shop so I figure he knows well enough. He’s got mostly 30s-50s hot rods in there all the time so I’m not the only one gambling.
If it is a piston ring then I will just put paint on hold and get it done-i hope not though.

[mkpontiac]

I live in the Central Valley and at some point will needs some work done. What is the name of the shop.

[supersport#69]

He’s retired but has his own place. With very limited hours. I think it’s mostly buddies of his but message me and I’ll pass his info along to you.

[supersport#69]

How are the fel pro 8518pt head gaskets?

[steve25]

There fine if your not looking to make over 525 hp for sustained amounts of time.

I even used them on my blower motor when I popped a head gasket over a weekend and and had to wait out a order of the 1016 gasket since the 8518 was all I could get.

I had them boosted up to 4 psi on my 455 that weekend.

One thing that needs to be done for any Head gaskets survival is that atleast the deck surface of the head needs to be near mirror like in its finish.

So should the deck of the block, but for a street only motor I would say it's not mandatory.

[supersport#69]

Just stock H.O. whatever that makes.

I need to order intake gaskets too but do I just get basic gaskets with 16 heads?

[geeteeohguy]

Originally Posted by supersport#69

Just stock H.O. whatever that makes.

I need to order intake gaskets too but do I just get basic gaskets with 16 heads?

Go to NAPA and get either Felpro or VIctor Reinz (OEM) gaskets and you will be just fine.

[supersport#69]

Do you know what the correct Muncie gasket kit would be for the side cover and shifter seals? I think it’s leaking from the two levers the linkage attaches too.

[TedRamAirII]

I saw a post using a Scotchbrite to clean with. They EAT Engines. All OE have Service Bulletins about their use!https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...37601-9999.pdf

[TedRamAirII]

Originally Posted by supersport#69

Do you know what the correct Muncie gasket kit would be for the side cover and shifter seals? I think it’s leaking from the two levers the linkage attaches too.

Usually the bores in the side cover are worn. I buy all Muncie Parts from Paul. https://www.5speeds.com/