[Squidward]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

If your cam plate is worn I would look at the freeze plug at the back of the cam. If it has to much distance between the cam & plug the cam will walk more & cause that to. Tighten it up some so it's closer to the cam.

If I read things correctly, this is a top end swap, so block/tranny stays in place. Rear cam journal plug is an impossibility.

The rear cam tunnel plug should not be contacting the cam. The forward thrust is retained by the cam plate, and rearward thrust is contained by the cam gear.

[lust4speed]

Originally Posted by rexs73gto

If your cam plate is worn I would look at the freeze plug at the back of the cam. If it has to much distance between the cam & plug the cam will walk more & cause that to. Tighten it up some so it's closer to the cam.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by Squidward

If I read things correctly, this is a top end swap, so block/tranny stays in place. Rear cam journal plug is an impossibility.

The rear cam tunnel plug should not be contacting the cam. The forward thrust is retained by the cam plate, and rearward thrust is contained by the cam gear.

Originally Posted by lust4speed

This makes more sense. I don't have to feverishly start researching things.

I'll have to get some pictures of the cam and thrust plate. While the plate itself has a definite ridge in it, the cam face that contacts the plate shows no sign of wear. My guess is the thrust plate was reused after something else had happened earlier in the engine's life.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by JLMounce

This makes more sense. I don't have to feverishly start researching things.

I'll have to get some pictures of the cam and thrust plate. While the plate itself has a definite ridge in it, the cam face that contacts the plate shows no sign of wear. My guess is the thrust plate was reused after something else had happened earlier in the engine's life.

The service manual didn't even list a cam thrust specification, but some timing sets require a minimum clearance, like .005", IIRC. I would say minimal clearance without binding is about where you'd want it.

Thrust retainer plates are cheap. If you don't feel comfortable with the wear, BOP and other vendors have them. $20 and done. I've reused 46 year old plates with almost no wear visible, and I seen some that are trashed.
https://www.bopengineering.com/ponti...t_parts3.shtml

[lust4speed]

Squidward tree'd me on my last post, and I was questioning the cam plug post and not his. I should also have included additional info. The cam plate is positioned between the cam and the timing gear. normally there's about .005" to .008" clearance that can be measured with a feeler gauge. As the plate wears this clearance will open up and in really extreme wear cases, could cause some detrimental cam walk.

The only function of the rear cam plug is to keep oil from flowing out the back of the engine, and only thing you could do wrong on its installation would be to drive it in too far where it would be contacted by the rear of the cam.

edit: Good lord, you tree'd me again.

[Squidward]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

edit: Good lord, you tree'd me again.

Well, if I can't do it at the track, I gotta do it somewhere! My RT's are normally pretty sad.

[JLMounce]

Originally Posted by lust4speed

Squidward tree'd me on my last post, and I was questioning the cam plug post and not his. I should also have included additional info. The cam plate is positioned between the cam and the timing gear. normally there's about .005" to .008" clearance that can be measured with a feeler gauge. As the plate wears this clearance will open up and in really extreme wear cases, could cause some detrimental cam walk.

The only function of the rear cam plug is to keep oil from flowing out the back of the engine, and only thing you could do wrong on its installation would be to drive it in too far where it would be contacted by the rear of the cam.

edit: Good lord, you tree'd me again.

Yeah, I knew you were quoting the other post. Thanks for the info.

The gear side didn't really show any type of wear, just some minor scuffing of the surface. The cam side looks like somebody took a hole saw to it, but didn't finish the job.

I ordered a new plate and woodruff key from Butler yesterday. Hopefully it'll get here quick.

[JLMounce]

Does anyone know the torque spec for the cam thrust plate? It's the one specification I can't seem to locate in the digital service manual I have.

For the exhaust, the service manual is stating 30 ft lbs. Is there are a tightening sequence to observe with this?

[nachomax]

I believe Wallace racing shows 20 lbs.

http://www.wallaceracing.com/torque-engine-specs.html

[Squidward]

On my most recent build, I got near 20 and it started hovering there as rotation still occurred. Yup, bolt stretch. I was lucky I stopped before I broke the bolt. SMH... these were used bolts from another engine.

[JLMounce]

Head's showed up today. Based on a side by side comparison, I'd say the factory heads had a bit of work done to them.





Is that a typical port size for a #62 head?

Either way, I'm looking forward to getting these new heads on the car and getting it fired back up!

[JLMounce]

The new cam thrust plate arrived today so I went to installing the new cam and lifters. Went in without a hitch. I did of course have to clearance the stock valley pan. 10 minutes with a hammer and I've got plenty of clearance for the link bars.

I did "craw around" in the engine with a light a bit to see if I could get a peak at the rotating assembly. It has it's 1973 factory N crank and factory rods. of course I have no way of really telling what was done with the rods. I can only hope they were magnafulxed and at least have upgraded bolts. I had the cam spec'd assuming there were factory rods in there, so I shouldn't be missing out on much in that department. I have a limited set at 5700 rpm and a shift point of 5500.

I have the day off tomorrow, so I'll thrash on it a bit more. I think I should be able to get everything primarily wrapped up tomorrow. Depending on how long that takes I might adjust the valves and get it fired up Saturday when I'm a bit more fresh.

[JLMounce]

Fired up the car last night. It didn't explode so I guess I did it right!

Everything is sealed up, no leaks, even from the exhaust which I struggled with. I figured the engine was going to be a bit more tame, which it is. Both quieter and less lope with the current cam. I do miss that, but it'll make more power, on cheaper fuel, in a more streetable manner, so I can't complain too much.

I need a helping hand with the hood and I'll get some video and post it here.

FWIW, I know there has been some debate on hydraulic roller lifters recently. I went with the Lunati lifters which I believe are Morel's. No abnormal noise from these on my engine. They are of course a bit louder than the old flat tappets, but nothing I would call abnormal.