[TempestFugit]

I've done this PITA job several times in the past and never remember exactly how I did it so its trial and error all over again. This time I took notes and I'm posting it here because I couldn't find much in the archives and there is some mis-information out there.

The '63 turn signal switch and cancel cam are a one-year-only design and are unique to the Tempest/Lemans. They frequently break and replacements are increasingly hard to find and getting very expensive. There is also an upper ball-bearing/horn-contact piece with horn wire that works with the horn contact in the steering wheel also located in the turn signal housing. This bearing/horn-contact may be the same one used in Corvettes around '63 and possibly Corvairs. The ball-bearing part usually does not break but sometimes gets messed up trying to fix the turn switch.

The steering wheel is bolted to the top of the steering shaft. You will need a steering wheel puller to get it off. The turn signal switch is mounted in the bell-shaped housing just below the steering wheel. That housing is locked on to the steering column which is a steel tube that passes thru the cowl and hangs from the bottom of the dash. If you are only replacing the turn signal switch and/or upper bearing you will NOT need to loosen the lower end of the steering column where it passes thru the firewall. You only need to loosen the lower end if you are removing or replacing the entire column, or steering shaft, or if the distance between the bottom edge of the steering wheel and the upper edge of the switch housing has been disturbed and needs to be adjusted.

Near the top of the steering column tube there are several cut-out slots that match up with tabs in the switch housing and also the switch plate. One of the slots has an L shape and another is a straight cut slot. When the housing is in the correct position and the switch plate is attached to the housing by 3 screws you cannot remove the housing or turn it more than a fraction of an inch. (if it can be moved around, something is wrong)

Step One. Disconnect the battery, apply parking brake and/or chock wheels.

Step Two. Remove the steering wheel.
a) Pull up the horn button (standard wheel), or the center section of the horn ring (deluxe wheel), or rotate the center shot-glass section counter-clockwise and lift up (custom wheel).
b) Remove the 3 horn screws (special screw driver recommended) and remove the horn contact hardware. (careful of that plastic thing it breaks easily.)
c) Remove the large steering wheel nut and steering wheel with a steering wheel puller.

Step Three. Unlock the switch housing from the steering column.
Remove 3 screws holding the switch plate in position. Raise switch plate slightly to separate the plate from the housing. Observe how this plate has tabs that fit into slots in the steering column. Now that the plate is loose the housing can be moved slightly downward and counter clockwise releasing it from it's locked position. Now the housing is free to move up and down on the steering column. Observe how the housing tab fits into the 'L' shaped slot and locks it into position. This will be step one of putting it back together, you move the housing into it's locked position then you slide the switch plate down and put the 3 screws back in the plate... this locks the housing in the correct position.

Step four. Loosen lower dash plastic bezel.
a) Remove headlight pull handle. (press release button underside of headlight switch and pull/jiggle handle till it comes out. do not force it, push-pull-jiggle should release it.)
b) Unscrew the chrome flanges on the Headlight, wiper and ignition switches and push the switches back into the dash.
c) Move the shift selector lever to 'L' (Low) and unscrew/remove the shift selector chrome handle (parking brake is on right!?)
d) Unplug turn signal switch wires underneath column and unplug white wire from brake pedal switch. Remove the green wire brass connector from the multi wire plug. (I slid a thin flat plastic wire-tie in behind the tab that holds the contact in its slot in the plug.) This is because the green wire follows a different path up the column and needs to be separated from the other wires in the plug.
e) Unscrew the 3/8" speed nut behind the dash bezel directly behind and slightly right of the 'N' in 'PRNDL' window.(Picture 1)
f) Pull the bottom of the plastic dash bezel towards you exposing 2 screws in the bottom of the steering column. Those screws hold the upper steering column jacket bezel in place. This covers the horn wires at the bottom of the steering column. The column jacket bezel is a two-piece jacket surrounding the column (Picture 2) it has cloth electrical tape wrapped around it holding the two sides in position. Cut the tape with a razor blade and remove the jacket. (This jacket may be incomplete or missing part if not replaced after a prior repair.)
g) Remove the two screws in the steering column U-clamp and remove the clamp.
h) The steering column can now be moved down slightly and away from the bottom of the dash enough to slide the plastic dash bezel up the column when removing the housing in the next step.

Step Five. Remove switch housing from steering column.
a) Make sure all wires are free to move up with the housing.
b) Pull out the split-ring horn contact bearing spring clamp from around the steering shaft (Picture 3) I use two very small screw drivers to pry it up and out... be very careful, you don't want to break this.
c) First observe where the green wire is routed behind & thru the column separate from the other wires, you will want to put it back that way later. (Picture 4)
Pull horn-bearing and long green wire off the steering shaft being careful not to bend it or loose the ball-bearings.
d) Now pull housing, wires and plastic dash bezel all together up and off the top of the steering shaft.

Step Six. Replace turn-signal switch plate and put it all back together.
a) Loosely position the switch and horn/bearing in the housing.
b) Feed the new switch wires, plug and the green horn wire thru the housing and the plastic dash bezel.
c) Feed the green wire back thru the column where it was.
d) Slide the housing onto the steering column move into position with tab in 'L' slot, turn housing clockwise to seat it. hold it in position, slide the switch plate into it's slot and replace the 3 screws in the switch base.
e) check position of housing, switch plate and make sure it is locked in position.
f) Put everything else back the way it was.

[fasteddy]

This is a great help. I did it myself without knowing how--what a pain in the arse. Thank you for posting this.

[TempestFugit]

Your welcome. It's bad enough twisting into a pretzel shape and crawling around under the dash, but when you're not really clear on how it all fits together it's even more annoying if that's possible.

I've been thinking about this for the last couple of days to see if there are other ways to do it and what are the pros & cons. and I think I came up with an alternative that may have some merit. (I also discovered that there MAY be some significant variations in some of the pieces but more on that later.

Some people have loosened the clamp at the bottom of the steering column (at the firewall) and pulled the entire tube up and out of the car. The problem with doing that is that you still have to take out the HL, IGN, and WW switches and loosen/take off the plastic dash bezel to be able to pull the wires and that big plug thru the hole in the dash bezel. So you gain a bit of convenience in being able to take it to a nicer place to work on it, (like under a shady tree) but now you have more work getting at the clamp in the engine compartment and you have one more adjustment to get the clearance right for the horn contact to work properly... (either 3/64" or 7/64" depending on which service bulletin you believe)

Here's an alternative that I believe may have some merit;
You already have to pick around inside the big wiring plug to release the contact on the green horn wire, right!? well, if you did the same thing on the other four wires in the NEW REPLACEMENT SWITCH you could just cut off the old plug and pull the wires out (maybe tie a string before you pull through so you can pull the new wires back down the column), you could then skip disconnecting the switches on the dash panel, unscrewing the speed-nut, removing the steering column to dash clamp the wire shield and removing the dash panel. (Or If you would rather not cut the old wire, remove the plug from the old wires the same way.)

The rest of the job would be the same... BUT, you would not have to do Step Four (a thru h) which is most of the upside-down pretzel stuff. A big plus if you ask me

[TempestFugit]

While it's still fresh in my mind I re-wrote step six a little clearer(?)
so ignore that step six at the top of this post and use this one.



Step Six. Replace turn-signal switch plate and put it all back together.
a) Place plastic dash bezel back on the column if it was removed
b) Feed the new switch wires thru the housing and loosely position the switch in the housing.
c) Slide the housing onto the steering column letting the wires hang down outside the column. Move into position with the tab in the 'L' slot, turn housing clockwise to seat it then pull it up into the locked position. hold it in position, slide the switch plate into it's slot and replace the 3 screws in the switch base. Make sure it seats flat on all 3 screw locations. Tighten all 3 screws.
d) Test fit the blinker arm into it's location and screw it in and make sure it has clearance to move up & down properly.(if it's not located properly unscrew the 3 screws and jiggle the switch-plate into position and re-tighten)
c) place the bearing locator ring on the column tube
d) Feed the green horn wire back thru the center hole in the switch plate and thru the opening in the top of column (Picture 4 above).
e) press the bearing holding split-ring back into position (I don't think it goes all the way down tight... leave enough to it pry-off next time.)
d) check position of housing, switch plate and make sure it is locked in position.
e) Put everything else back the way it was.

More pictures: (Note picture 2 & 3 Below show how the bearing goes in and looks in position EXCEPT that the rest of the housing and switch plate is not on the column in these pictures so this is only an example of the bearing... because you can't see it when it's all together you will not be able to see this clearly when it's installed inside the housing & switch-plate. Picture 5 below is all you will see when its all together including the split ring)

[TempestFugit]

Here's a couple of pictures of those 'L' shaped slots in the top of steering colums. There are three groups of slots spaced around the column. each group consists of two slots. The lower slot matches up with the tabs in the housing and the upper slot matches up with the tabs in the switch plate. There are two different types of slots as shown. The one on the left has a hook-nose and the other one just a plane L shape. when you twist the housing, the center tab in the housing has an additional nub that locks into that hook-nose and holds the housing in position. when you slide the switch plate down and screw it to the housing they are locked together.


I noticed that there are two different types of steering columns that I've found in '63 cars. One type has one hook-nose slot in the center and two plain slots. the other type has three hook-nose slots. I have no idea why this is. Maybe there is a difference between the '61-62 and the '63 columns or an early style / later style situation. If they had 3 hook nose tabs on the housings in '62 and then switched to only one hook-nose in '63 they could use up the old stock until gone then save a few pennies on the later style.

OR
There could be a difference in some housings. Sooo if anybody gets a replacement housing that dosen't fit right check to see if there are 3 little nubs on the housing tabs or just one.

[gstoib]

Carl - Please PM me. I would like to ask you something about your post.

[rohrt]

subscribed

[Peter Serio]

I believe that getting this dimension just right has to do with engaging the tangs of the cancel cam (which is attached by 2 screws to the back of the steering wheel). Relative to the flexi-tabs on the switch that click and then shut off the switch after you go around a corner.


[QUOTE=TempestFugit;4599923]Your welcome. It's bad enough twisting into a pretzel shape and crawling around under the dash, but when you're not really clear on how it all fits together it's even more annoying if that's possible.



Some people have loosened the clamp at the bottom of the steering column (at the firewall) and pulled the entire tube up and out of the car. The problem with doing that is that you still have to take out the HL, IGN, and WW switches and loosen/take off the plastic dash bezel to be able to pull the wires and that big plug thru the hole in the dash bezel. So you gain a bit of convenience in being able to take it to a nicer place to work on it, (like under a shady tree) but now you have more work getting at the clamp in the engine compartment and you have one more adjustment to get the clearance right for the horn contact to work properly... (either 3/64" or 7/64" depending on which service bulletin you believe)

[TomMcCrea]

The photos in this thread have been helpful with the proper assembly of the steering column as I have not found a suitable illustration. Not that it is all that difficult, it is just that mine was missing the bearing and parts were just thrown in. My column has a bronze bushing below the switch which I have not seen in photos or mentioned. The hole in the bushing is too big to center the steering shaft so I am wondering what purpose it serves. Also, it partially blocks the opening in the tube where the horn switch is supposed to exit and I am concerned that it will chafe the insulation. Is the bushing supposed to be there?

I know that this car had some collision damage, but to what extent I am not sure. One thing that concerns me some is the fact that the steering shaft is just a little low to be in the proper location for the tube to be installed without putting a bind on it. It might be that this is normal or that the frame has a slight twist where the gear box mounts. Has everyone's experience shown that the shaft should be close to center?

[TempestFugit]

That bushing is not right for a '63.

The '61-'62 has different internals that I'm not familiar with, could it be some parts got mixed in? That busing would interfe with the horn wire on a '63 column.

As far as the shaft goes I think when the bracket and column are off the shaft will sag a bit and not be centered. If it's so far off that it's binding maybe something got bent or the steering box is out of place a bit. Can you loosen the box/frame bolts and reposition it?

[TomMcCrea]

I have just come in from the garage after having spent several hours trying to get the column right and I am still satisfied.

When I removed the steering gear I had to remove lots of accumulated oil soaked dirt and in that was a shim. I thought I remembered it going on the lower rear bolt, but that put the shaft too far off center. I tried it in the other two locations and then found that the lower front was where I needed a shim, just not so thick. Finally found something thin enough and the shaft is close, just sagging a little.

What bothers me now is that I have purchased a Grant wood steering wheel to replace the original that is cracked very badly. I have tried both wheels and have the same result with the wheel not being concentric with the bowl on the column. I have tired repositioning the the lower clamp, but that has not helped. Maybe I need to take it apart again and remove that bushing.

I ordered an upper bearing for a 1963 Nova and figured it should be close as I didn't have any luck finding one listed for the Tempest. Turns out the one they sent must be the most common bearing as it fits 1955 & up cars and pickups. This one is encapsulated in rubber and is a little too long to fit the tube so I trimmed the bottom and it fits OK. The bearing inner race is correct for the shaft and the OD on the bearing fits the tube.

A person who worked on this car many years ago told me that it had been stolen and there was some collision damage, maybe I should go ahead and have it put on a frame machine to see if there are some twists or tweaks.

[Peter Serio]

There is a bulletin that talks about shimming the steering box relative to the inner frame rail. In the shop manual there is a line drawing of this as well.

Not all cars are welded together exactly the same, and the box is mounted fairly close to the front of the car. If it has been in an accident before the rail could be pushed in or off center. I ended up shimming my box in 2 locations to get the column "centered" in the tube. The tube is not as critical as the actual center shaft. The shaft is only supported by a bearing at each end. There is a thick felt washer inside the tube just rearward of the firewall. This washer is for noise control only. You DO NOT want your center shaft bowed or tensioned. If it is not in a relaxed state it could bind up on you. I can tell you that it is almost an art form to shimming that box and get the center shaft in a good position. The best way I have found is to disconnect the pitman arm so you can properly evaluate the center shaft and easily tell if it is on a bind or not.

[Peter Serio]

[QUOTE=TomMcCrea;5170139]The photos in this thread have been helpful with the proper assembly of the steering column as I have not found a suitable illustration. Not that it is all that difficult, it is just that mine was missing the bearing and parts were just thrown in. My column has a bronze bushing below the switch which I have not seen in photos or mentioned. The hole in the bushing is too big to center the steering shaft so I am wondering what purpose it serves. Also, it partially blocks the opening in the tube where the horn switch is supposed to exit and I am concerned that it will chafe the insulation. Is the bushing supposed to be there?

I would say no. I have never seen anything like that before. And your are right, the green wire passes right thru that area!

[TempestFugit]

I just realized that there is no clear picture of a good switch in this thread so I'm posting a few now.

[TomMcCrea]

Believe it or not, the shaft alignment is still a problem for me after all this time. The car has been sitting all winter and it is time to get ready for some driving.

Last summer I had the frame alignment checked and was told it is in specs so I should be able to get the shaft aligned correctly, just need to take the time to get it done. I have a gap between the steering wheel and switch bowl at the top and it is enough to prevent the canceling cam from working.

My strut rod bushing were worn out and they have been replaced so I want to get the steering shaft alignment worked out before taking the car for a wheel alignment. It steers straight, but don't know that the castor is correct.

[TempestFugit]

do you still have that bushing in there? adjusting the tube as in response #8 above should correct the gap.