[Mr. G]

Had the upper long bolt on passenger side break off at the pump surface after getting one turn on it. Attempting to remove timing cove to replace the broken bolt but the bolt is corroded solid inside the timing cover hole. Put a puller on it and it and the cover won't budge off the broken bolt. Any good tricks to get this loose? Trying not to destroy the timing cover in the process. Been working on these cars for 45 years and have never had this problem before but I do understand the dissimilar metals issue going on here. Bolt turns in the block just not in the timing cover. this is on an 11 bolt cover.

[Goatracer1]

I have had similar problems in the past. Two different ways have worked for me. The first is to heat the cover along the section where the bolt is and at the same time tap it with a small hammer. The second is to drill a series of small holes along the section where the bolt is and spray penetrating oil in for a couple of days and also tap it with a hammer.

[dataway]

Yep, introducing some kind of shock to the area that will break up the deposits often helps. If the bolt is proud of the cover surface you can try tapping that up and down, side to side while occasionally blowing any dust out of the hole. Or drill a small hole in the end of the bolt and use a center punch an hammer to tap the bolt side to side.

Sometimes working dry can help as the deposits don't want to "pack up" as much and can be blown out somewhat.

If that doesn't work, then as Goatracer says, try to get some penetrant in there to try to disolve the deposits.

[Mr. G]

Thanks for the help fellas. I got the timing cover off and the broken bolt out. Used heat and hammer tapping and the puller. Wasn't a lot of corrosion but enough to make the thing not move at all. Now I can get things back together but I figure I may as well put a new timing set in while It's all apart. I will pack those long bolts with grease when it goes back together. Thanks again for great advice. The members here are the best.

[HWYSTR455]

Antiseize would be better. And make sure the block surface is good.

The thin paper gaskets are junk, use the thicker 'professional' ones, like the Fel-Pro.

Re-tighten after a few run times/heat cycles.

If it doesn't leak, it won't corrode.


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[dataway]

If you have a large flat surface it can help to lap the engine side surface of the cover. You'll have to pull out the spring roll locating pins. Lots of surface imperfections form on those timing covers.

['ol Pinion head]

Had an instance near 25 years ago where was in a monster country yard & trying to pull a "138" cast wp core that dated one of my keeper '71's. Had been been looking for near a decade for a "138" core in that date range to rebuild so was very happy. Get nerly all the bolts out & the loop ring TC bolt would not budge. Removed the radiator & fanshroud. With lot of room, whacked the bolt dead square with my BFH. Had the 6 point on the long flex head 1/2" ratchet. Wouldn't budge. Ended up slipping the clutch fan back on the wp studs, put the radiator back in, & carefully walked the hood down.

Month later, am on a long road trip & back in same monster yard w my Cherokee. Brought the alum bottle small cutting torch rig. Also several pump up water sprayers, just in case. It took getting the long bolt hot, let it cool, then finally was able to get the threads to break loose with the break over. Ended up buying the excellent condition original timing cover as well.

Have also had occasions pulling wp cores to rebuild, where I broke off the bolt head of the same position 9/16" headed long bolt. By carefully twisting the core water pump back & forth was able to get the core off w/o damage.

[Mr. G]

Good points. It did have the cheap gaskets on the timing cover, so that would probably explain why it was such a pain. I have already picked up a Fel Pro gasket set for it. Now I will be replacing the repair sleeve on the balancer but haven't quite figured out how to remove the old one without causing harm to the balancer. Any thoughts on that would be welcomed.

[HWYSTR455]

Triangle file, small one, go slow, and can pry with a baby screwdriver.

If you used the red loctite, it will be a challenge. But if you're putting another sleeve on, you won't have to worry too much about any minor marks on the balancer.

If it's not an SFi balancer, just get a new one, and use an SFi one.

Antisieze the crap out of the cover studs, and the water pump sleeves. If you got the timing cover gasket 'kit', or have spares, replace the rubber rings in the sleeves.

Check you divider plate too, and if it's questionable, get a stainless replacement one.

And check the clearance on the divider plate, adjust as required.

Run a thread cleaner tap thru the pan bolt hole in the cover, check threads, Helicoil as required. Might as well check the fuel pump bolt holes too, as well as all the water pump bolt holes.

Clean all the bolt threads. Chase the block threads too.

Dip your finger in assembly lube and coat the balancer sleeve surface and the balancer seal before assembly.

If you have a crank socket, you can check the alignment of the seal-to-balancer seal, if it's off, remove the alignment sleeves and pitch 'em in the trash (or save if you prefer).

Spotts makes a balancer seal alignment tool, if you don't have a crank socket, can check on FB or eGay for them, they work great.

That's my brain-dump on the subject.


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[HWYSTR455]

Spotts alignment tool:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28613932957...90.c101224.m-1

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[HWYSTR455]

Use the cork pan to cover seal.

The alignment tool also will serve as a seal install tool, look at pics on link.


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[HWYSTR455]

I use Gaska-cinch on the gaskets, it is colorless, and easy to work with.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...yABEgJ0WfD_BwE



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[HWYSTR455]

Trim pan to cover gasket at the 3-way mating area on both sides, and run a thin bead of RTV along that area.

[Mr. G]

Thank you HWYSTR455! That will certainly cover any and all issues going forward with this small project, or at least it started out as a small project. It is great to get advice from someone who has been there and done that. Appreciate all the help.