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| The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
03-15-2004, 10:47 AM
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going to try & bring up a pic.....this was under vynal top.....can I weld this area if need be with glass in?
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 70 GTO 400/4SPD-13.97@102.31
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#2
03-15-2004, 10:47 AM
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going to try & bring up a pic.....this was under vynal top.....can I weld this area if need be with glass in?
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70 GTO 400/4SPD-13.97@102.31
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#3
03-15-2004, 11:50 AM
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Wow, thats nasty looking
 I think it might be time to let a pro take a look at that. It can prolly be fixed with MIG/TIG, but thats a structural piece so Id yield to a more experienced welder.
__________________
"If you can’t fly then run, if you can’t run then walk, if you can’t walk then crawl, but whatever you do you have to keep moving forward." |
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#4
03-15-2004, 12:21 PM
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hi judas!! aws certified with plenty -o -experience...have to determine what I am working with here...could be mud,..could be lead(like where 1/4 meets sail panal)maybe both! looks bad I agree, looks as if previous owner tried to fix this before installing new top....I plan to keep car as a hardtop....better go get my magnet
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70 GTO 400/4SPD-13.97@102.31
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#5
03-15-2004, 12:31 PM
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Normally I'd say the leaded joint is higher up on the pillar. Either way, anything is fixable. You'd be better off removing the glass. If it's this bad you better look in all areas and fix them while you have it apart. Just take lots of measurements just in case things start to crumble as you remove them.
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Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same. -RONALD REAGAN 462 cid/ 6x-4/ TH400/ 3.36:1/ 28x10.5/ 3880#/ 12.35 @ 109.36/ 1.69 60 ft/ 4 wheel disc brakes/ 15 mpg  |
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#6
03-15-2004, 10:41 PM
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From the looks of things.
Too low for the factory lead seam. More then likely a failed previous leak repair. Corner of the roof/ pillar rail was probably rusted out. The W/S definitely needs to come out first
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"Bye" "Bye" Rice Boy!!! |
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#7
03-16-2004, 02:48 AM
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dang,dangit,dang!!
 did not want to yank that puppy....dont think this one will practically fall out like rear window did....maybe I should wait for hot day & let it bake in sun first??  hmmmm ,that will be in about 3 months from now  thanks for info men ,will keep you posted 
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70 GTO 400/4SPD-13.97@102.31
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#8
03-16-2004, 10:03 AM
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Sorry, didnt know you were a real welder! Btw, be super careful removing that windshield. Ive read its far more fragile then the rear. I have a 20+ inch crack in mine now, so id agree
__________________
"If you can’t fly then run, if you can’t run then walk, if you can’t walk then crawl, but whatever you do you have to keep moving forward." |
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#9
03-16-2004, 06:00 PM
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yank that puppy?
probably won't be long........ but you have yet to determine if it's really cracked. you can protect the glass and clean it up with a wire wheel/abrasive disc. if you're unlucky and it's cracked you might as well plan on a new windshield. no way to do a structural repair with it in and not worth saving |
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#10
03-16-2004, 08:15 PM
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Like stated above, glass must come out to weld that area. That IS the joint between the top and post, but it may not be leaded. Take a knife and see if you can dig some of the material out. It may be a flexible filler material that the factories used (instead of lead) on vinyl top equipped cars. They would also use it at the rear C post. Regardless, it needs to be removed and reworked with filler, but you may find that it does not need to be welded.
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#11
03-17-2004, 10:22 AM
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appears structually sound & water tight....pin hole bothers me though
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70 GTO 400/4SPD-13.97@102.31
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#12
03-17-2004, 04:58 PM
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So what was covering the joint, lead or plastic filler?
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#13
03-18-2004, 03:24 AM
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hey 400, yeah itis leaded, with what appears to be tan seam sealer built on top... like what is running along side drip moulding...guess they were not to fussy about the finish when they knew a vynal top was going on.
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70 GTO 400/4SPD-13.97@102.31
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#14
03-18-2004, 11:53 AM
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That's more than what I'd call a pin hole. That needs addressing once and for all. Might be the worst of it, but gravity works on water too, so it may be worse down lower.
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#15
03-20-2004, 04:46 PM
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I ended up tapping area down around hole, por,prime,filler...yeah I prolly just exceeded the 1/4 inch thickness for filler, have to agree with marty, if you end up with more than 1/4 or so thickness with plastic body filler(bondo) there is a good chance it will crack down the road..oh well...the real bad news is all the weld slag that I spotted on the inside windshield from cutting & welding new floor in
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70 GTO 400/4SPD-13.97@102.31
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