[mario65]

Going to swap out my brakes to finish the pro-tour on the car. Its all I have left. I thought I d add the info I learned hear since there is such little info here. Got a great price from http://www.smittyscustomauto.com. I really liked being able to text and call questions along the way.

Took off a perfectly good factory system. Disc/Drum and power/master setup.

Going with front 140-12271, rear 140-12211 sets and originally was going pure manual with a Wilwood 1" master. I was told to expect the front wheels to push out .30" but after the install I can see its a wash. The .30" is between front drums and their discs.

Got cold feet and decided to go back with a booster. I looked at the Detroit speed master/booster kit but couldnt see the 390.00 being worth it especially with a GM master. Anyway I ordered the booster they use from tuffstuff 2224NC or 2229NC. I'll still run the Wilwood master. Wilwood said a 1" master and a 9" booster is perfect for the brakes I chose. I will also say wilwood uses 1/2x20 threads on their front hub so I sent my rear axles off to get 1/2x20/2" studs put in to match the fronts. Bought all new lugs.

Waiting for the booster, axles and a few pieces to come in the mail.

[mario65]

Got the tuff stuff booster that DSE uses today and started fitting it

[mario65]

Heres some pics. This job is taking me more time because I keep adding work to it. I have finished the fuel system I redid but I pulled the exhaust and ordered a new one, pulled the super comp headers and sent them to be rejetcoated(crappy job before I got the car), axles and rear studs, rearend cover, decided to use a booster, brackets, rod and clevis, all new stainless flexible lines, touch up and detail the bottom, fixed speedo leak, changed the oil, fixed leaking heater core(did it setting fuel lines), etc.

Hope to be on the tires and driving in 2 weeks.

[mario65]

Got really ticked off at my inability to get a good flare on a the rear stainless quarter inch line. Decided to get a new 3/16 line for the rear just to get me off the ceiling. Its all done waiting for the new line.

[mario65]

Finished yesterday. Stainless lines cant be flared unless you have a tool worth more than a new stainless line from inline tube. Moral of this story get all new lines unless you are sure you can use your existing lines without cutting or flaring. I ended up going with 3/16 line front and back and thats what Wilwood recommended. I had to buy (2) 90 degree fittings and 2 new fittings at the master. I put on and took off the line so much trying to get the flare to work it killed the aluminum fitting and wouldnt seal.

I also bench bled twice because of having to replace the fittings. Glad I did, it did get air back in the master to change the fittings. The tuff stuff master is a great fit for the wilwood master just make sure you use the pin in the master since the booster is a short pin.

I spent 3 times as long fighting the leaks than installing the brakes. Again get new lines and mount it all once.

Bleeding was very easy. I did run alot of fluid through to get out the air in the new line and then later when I replaced the fittings. WIth a fresh dry brake line plugged up to the master I wouldnt pump it. It seemed to me to defeat the purpose of bench bleeding if I got air back in the master. So I went to the back brake and unplugged the line and sucked on it until I tasted brake fluid. It will gravity flow once you get the line mostly full. Once I did that front and back I felt ok to pump the master and bleed at the calipers. Of course a nice power bleeder or pump will keep you from tasting brake fluid.

Make sure you adjust the Ebrake when you are putting the rear rotors on. Adjust it out until it just make s contact and youll have an brake. Youll need it when you test it for insurance purposes.

Now that I drove it I have to say I think I could use my one toe to stop the car. Seriously need no real pressure to stop it. It will put your face in the front glass if you dont remember to press lightly. So could I have not used a booster? Yes, probably dont need it at all. Its there I aint pulling it out.

Lastly I pulled the fronts off and repacked and retightened the bearings per the sellers suggestion.

Very happy, best brakes I have had on any car.

[rohrt]

Originally Posted by mario65

Finished yesterday. Stainless lines cant be flared unless you have a tool worth more than a new stainless line from inline tube. Moral of this story get all new lines unless you are sure you can use your existing lines without cutting or flaring. I ended up going with 3/16 line front and back and thats what Wilwood recommended. I had to buy (2) 90 degree fittings and 2 new fittings at the master. I put on and took off the line so much trying to get the flare to work it killed the aluminum fitting and wouldnt seal.

I also bench bled twice because of having to replace the fittings. Glad I did, it did get air back in the master to change the fittings. The tuff stuff master is a great fit for the wilwood master just make sure you use the pin in the master since the booster is a short pin.

I spent 3 times as long fighting the leaks than installing the brakes. Again get new lines and mount it all once.

Bleeding was very easy. I did run alot of fluid through to get out the air in the new line and then later when I replaced the fittings. WIth a fresh dry brake line plugged up to the master I wouldnt pump it. It seemed to me to defeat the purpose of bench bleeding if I got air back in the master. So I went to the back brake and unplugged the line and sucked on it until I tasted brake fluid. It will gravity flow once you get the line mostly full. Once I did that front and back I felt ok to pump the master and bleed at the calipers. Of course a nice power bleeder or pump will keep you from tasting brake fluid.

Make sure you adjust the Ebrake when you are putting the rear rotors on. Adjust it out until it just make s contact and youll have an brake. Youll need it when you test it for insurance purposes.

Now that I drove it I have to say I think I could use my one toe to stop the car. Seriously need no real pressure to stop it. It will put your face in the front glass if you dont remember to press lightly. So could I have not used a booster? Yes, probably dont need it at all. Its there I aint pulling it out.

Lastly I pulled the fronts off and repacked and retightened the bearings per the sellers suggestion.

Very happy, best brakes I have had on any car.

I went through the exact same issue working with SS lines. All I have to show for it is $200 or so of bent up lines and fittings still sitting on a shelf. Three different flaring tools only to end up buying a pre-bent kit in mild steel.

[mbwicz1]

I've done 2 cars with stainless line that I bought from Classic Tube, had no major problems flaring it. They advertise their tubing as double annealed, so that probably makes a difference. A few things I learned:

1. It is critical to cut the tube square, deburr it inside and out
2. I actually prefer a standard double flare kit, but have used a hydraulic flare as well.
3. If I was just restoring the car, I would have bought a pre-bent kit in SS. I did some custom stuff, so had to make my own lines.

I had good luck with 3/8 and 1/2" fuel lines in SS from these guys as well, but I didn't double flare the 1/2", just put a bump on it to help retain hose.

Nice work with the big wilwood brakes.

Mike

[mario65]

Originally Posted by mbwicz1

I've done 2 cars with stainless line that I bought from Classic Tube, had no major problems flaring it. They advertise their tubing as double annealed, so that probably makes a difference. A few things I learned:

1. It is critical to cut the tube square, deburr it inside and out
2. I actually prefer a standard double flare kit, but have used a hydraulic flare as well.
3. If I was just restoring the car, I would have bought a pre-bent kit in SS. I did some custom stuff, so had to make my own lines.

I had good luck with 3/8 and 1/2" fuel lines in SS from these guys as well, but I didn't double flare the 1/2", just put a bump on it to help retain hose.

Nice work with the big wilwood brakes.

Mike

Thanks for the compliment.

I tried a double flare tool on a 1/4 SS line. It couldnt bend the line with the tool. I bought another tool. Same thing. I read you could single flare SS with 37 degree flare. I didn't have one but tried the 45. Well I cut it straight, deburred it and single flared it. It leaked. I determined that the 110.00 for a new 3/16 line was going to be cheaper than getting a serious hydraulic tool and a few trips to a psychiatrist. I was like a kid at Christmas when that new line showed up. About 2 hours later I was done.

[mario65]

Heres an unexpected update. The power booster from Tuffstuff is flaking all over. What a Pita thats gonna be to deal with and swap out.