[RASK]

I've been on this site for a number of years now and I don't recall anyone having started a thread about what's really important and not important when restoring a vehicle, specifically T/As. What will really matter when it comes time to show the vehicle? Everyone is/was restoring and wondering does this have to be correct? Are they going to dock me for that? We all want to restore as close as possible to original but to what length and what cost? I think I'll start us off based on what I have experienced at significant, but non-pontiac specific local auto shows as well as National Pontiac events like the T/A Nat.s and Pontiac Tri-Power Nat.s.

General - Quality of restoration is most important anywhere, anytime. This includes attention to detail.

Correctness- I believe "Correct appearing" should be your main focus. All I can say is that there is no serial number or date stamp or foundry stamping inspections being done on any part at any show I've been to.

Fasteners - New is better that old as long as they appear correct. Color, Finish and plating is important, brands and stamps are not.

Paint - No one is going to fault you for having too good of a paint job, no one. The opposite certaintly applies to paint and bodywork. Attention to all door jambs, trunk jams, etc. are important. Correct overspray should be considered but keep in mind you will be going to local shows and this could be perceived as being sloppy. Everyone knows that early Vettes have engine enamel overspray on the exhaust manifolds but no one knows squat about T/As.

Fit and finish - I'm not talking about adding weld beads to door edges to get a 1/8" uniform gap. However, when reassembling it is important to get what the factory gave you as good or better than original. Especially spoilers on T/As.

Attention to Detail - door jambs, glass, trim work, chrome, plastic and wheel condition are all important. No goop, dirt, wax or buffing compound in any crevices. No dust, finger prints or oil anywhere.

Interior – The big stuff has to be spotless and in perfect condition (dash, doors, seats, carpet, etc). Pay attention to little things like fasteners, knobs, seat belts, steering wheel, pedals and other small parts as they are also as important. They may also need replacing, painting, polishing etc. No dust or dirt anywhere.

Bracketry and underhood parts - Important to get correct color finish, sheen and/or plating if applicable. All parts must be present (Ex. emissions stuff).

Repro parts – Some are just plain junk and unusable. Some examples are pretty good but, may lack a serial number, or are just slightly off. One example is the 73 radiator overflow jar. It’s exact but has no GM part no. It looks way better than a crusty, dingy original and no one is going to check the part no. We could go on and on with this subject, perhaps it needs a thread of it own. Some other examples are non date coded windows, plastic washer containers, shaker air duct, seat covers, door panels, valances, steering wheels, wheel well spoilers, brakes, A/C, suspension components, etc.

To give you some perspective, and I quote, these are the rules that were going to be stretched for the Stock class at last years and this years T/A Nationals and reasons (understandably) why my car had to be put in the lite modified class last year :

Stock Changes allowed in stock classes are limited to the following:
Any stock appearing floor mats, or door handle inserts
Any stock appearing aftermarket shifter
The stock hood scoop made functional (opened up)
Any firebird/trans am wheels from the same model year, or valve stems
Any aftermarket exhaust system with stock appearing tips
Any firebird/trans am factory option from the same model year
Most aftermarket stereos that fit without dash modifications, cb's, telephones, or radar detectors.
Any stock type body side moldings
Any factory type aftermarket replacement parts
Any stock appearing window tints
Parking stickers, permits, and club stickers
No other visible changes will be allowed in any of the stock classes!

The few items they caught me on were:
Exhaust - They took exception to my RamAir IV repro manifolds. However, no one checked or cared that I have 6X heads instead of 4X.
Shaker - Since I have a special engine turned treatment decal on the flapper that matches my dash (quite well I might add), they felt this was too over the top.
Trunk - I'm using one of those mini, universal, inflated spares instead of the collapsed, inflatable.
Distributor - I have a black Pertronix aftermarket.

Yes, I did win the modified class in '07 as some already know.

Anyone else care to chime in?

[2manyT/A'S]

GOOD POST!

Just one thing caught MY attention.

Are saying that OEM emission equipment is NOT required in the stock classes?

I would think that it should be,in appearance, but NOT functioning.

(this opens a whole NEW can of worms for the 75 & newer with factory equipped catalytic converters)

[fodder69]

I think he is saying example and not excluding emission equipment.

[weranc55]

Rask was your car the red 73 at the nats last year with black interior? I disagree on the bolts. I like to get my original replated.

[superdutybob]

Great post!

I will chime in a few of my pet peeves.

Painted fasteners in the wheel wells. A clear sign of a short cut paint job.
Hardware store fasteners under the hood. There should be no bright zinc or zinc dichromate fasteners holding your fenders or fan shroud on. Correct style fasteners are important as well as finish. There is NOBODY that can tell you with 100% certainty which markings or forging marks were on what fasteners. As discussed in another post, they were all over the place.

Attention to detail is very important.

Being called to dinner! More later!

[OhMyGoat]

What a great post! Much of the information applies to any model being restored, not just the T/A's. Well done RASK.

[wwilder9]

Rask,
First of all I would like to say your car is awsome. Also, I did notice your 6X heads I got a picture of them. I would post it but lately all pics I try to post error out. I loved seeing your red carpet also. Hope to see you a Nats this year also.
Wayne

[RASK]

I was trying to state that all parts should be on the vehicle which would include emissions equipment in the stock class. No one is going to check if it is functioning. Case in point, my engine is pretty well modified internally and we have all heard that heavily modified cars may have issues with lack of vacuum. I didn't want to take any chances so I decided to reduce unnecessary vacuum draws to ensure that, mainly my brakes, had enough vacuum. Therefore even though my emmissions is present (and functional) I blocked some of the vacuum lines with ball bearings; the air cleaner Thermac, EGR, and charcoal canister I believe. The TCS I left functional for vacuum advance.
Having parts present also applies to A/C equipment and especially belts.
As you can see by the T/A nat.s rules, the exhaust does not have to be stock as both ends are there (manifolds and exhaust tips).
I agree that having the stock fasteners sure does help and I did restore as much of the originals as I was able to but, many cars have been basterdized and attention should be paid to finding the "correct appearing" replacements with the correct finish. Here is one case in point, the nuts with the free spinning washers that can be found in the trunk used on the spoilers. These are extremely hard to find so I had the originals sent out to get replated with Gold Dichromate. If you want a good source for most all metal refinishing (except chrome) talk to Ed Manual at Elyria Plating 440-365-8309. He's a car guy and knows what you want/need.

[weranc55]

I actually have a source for those spoiler and tail panel nuts that are correct and exact to originals, even the smaller corner ones for the middle spoiler. I was going to try to sell a few sets on ebay to see if there is a demand for them.