[69Goat1]

I am really interested in trying this on one of my 69 GTO's... Will the manifolds allow enough exhaust to support a low 9, high 8 second pass or will I have to do something else? Also what SCR should I shoot for if I want to run 91 octane pump gas and do a mid 9 around 145 MPH?

[6D6GOAT]

Originally Posted by 69Goat1

I am really interested in trying this on one of my 69 GTO's... Will the manifolds allow enough exhaust to support a low 9, high 8 second pass or will I have to do something else? Also what SCR should I shoot for if I want to run 91 octane pump gas and do a mid 9 around 145 MPH?

PAGING TOM V.....PAGING TOM V.....

[Tom Vaught]

Here is the deal about cast iron exhaust manifolds on a turbo car.

I knew a guy in the late 70s named DOUG HESS that had a twin turbo small block Chebby deal. It was a Draw-thru set-up. In a Camaro body with minimal weight reduction the car ran 9.46 in the quarter mile. He later put the engine in a lighter Monza body with a different chassis and the car went 8.65 at 165 in the quarter. THIS WAS WITH CAST IRON FACTORY MANIFOLDS. So to answer your question, with the right turbos, the right weight car, and the right driveline, I see no issue with running at least mid 9s with cast tron parts.

A second story, Marty Palbykin went to the dyno with his efi Pontiac engine and with a lot of work made 735 HP naturally Aspirated. The same weekend a guy with a SB Chebby with cast iron heads, a smaller engine, and a single turbo made 1000 hp and 1000 lb/ft of torque on the same dyno with cast iron manifolds.

Marty believed in Turbos after that deal.

Tom Vaught

[b-man]

Bump to the top, for one of the most inspiring threads I've seen here in a while.....

[krisr]

Hey Vic, how about some videos of you cruising around in your beasty before it gets too cold over there to drive it!! I want to hear what it sounds like and see how well it picks up / accelerates!

[6D6GOAT]

Originally Posted by krisr

Hey Vic, how about some videos of you cruising around in your beasty before it gets too cold over there to drive it!! I want to hear what it sounds like and see how well it picks up / accelerates!

thank you B man !


Kris...i have been wanting to get some vids together but i have been running into some accessory belt alignment issues since i pulled the supercharger and reinstalled the stock 3 piece balancer.

the other day i decided to "hear" the turbo...(or as my daughters say "MAKE IT WHISTLE, MAKE IT WHISTLE !! anyways, kind of got on it through 2nd gear pushed in the clutch to cruise a bit and immediately started hearing some clanging coming from the engine compartment. i thought Oh boy, i finally did it, i finally broke that bad cylinder. i pulled off and popped the hood only to find my power steering belt a slipped off and was clanging around in my radiator fan.

i shimmed the PS pump but i didnt do a good job so now i get belt slippage riiight about when the turbo starts to spool and on top of that...the bad cylinder (#7 has 50 pounds less PSI than the rest) is still making some noise.

i would rather post a vid AFTER i get the "real" motor built and installed.


PS..what does a broken ring sound like anyways in a running car? is it noticeable?

[6D6GOAT]

I forgot, i do have one update.. i decided to move my water/alcohol injection nozzle from under the throttle body to front of the cold side tube just in front of the turbo outlet. im thinking that would give the air that much more time to "mingle" with the cooling water/alc mixture to help create a cooler intake charge. in addition to that i thought it would be cool to have my ECU turn the injection on and off. ( i originnaly had to manually turn it on and off with a toggle switch) so i wired it in so that when the throttle position sensor reads half throttle or higher it will turn/prime the injection pump. then there is a separate solenoid that is triggered by an adjustable boost switch. i have it set to come on and start injecting at like 2 pounds of boost and higher.

THEEEENNNN, i thought it would be cool to have little shift lights that would come on to let me know that the pump is on and primed and another light to let me know that its actually spraying. so i went to the hardware store and got some thin brass tubing...went to radio shack and got some lights....a little cutting...a little JB weld... a little paint and whaa laa.

so now when i floor it i get a quick green light...then when the boost comes in i get a blue light...then hold on and wait for the shift light..because it will come pretty fast.

[Tom Vaught]

Hope you have your deal wired so that the switches are "'cold" when the engine is off. I knew a Ford guy with a Mustang who broke the starter nose off his engine when a switch failed with a Hot Wire deal and pumped the water bottles contents into the intake. HYDROLOCK! Water before the turbo will over time cause wear on the turbo compressor blades. Course you can use a really cheap windshield washer pump that way though.

Tom V.

[6D6GOAT]

Tom. its wired up right. even if the motor was left on it wouldnt discharge until the boost switch sees boost. basically my ECU gives a NEG ground when the TPS is over half throttle. that NEG ground goes to a relay that turns the motor on. i then have a wire piggy backed coming from the the relay POS output to the light then the other wire on the light goes to ground. same setup for the boost switch and blue light.

as for the spray nozzle. i guess i didnt type it right. its not injecting into the turbo impeller. the nozzle is in the cold side tube inbetween the turbo and throttle body. its located right where the turbo dumps into the cold side. actually its right inbetween the turbo and the blow off valve...so i get a quick breath of alcohol in between shifts when the blow off valve opens up.

[GOAT8U2]

6D6Goat, do you think you had the room to put V band clamps on the outlets of the stock headers to change the angles and make it easier to run the piping?

If your pump is up to it, straight Methanol is the way to go and is your setup progressive?
A full blast 150psi turn on at 2psi of boost is a lot of fluid if the nozzle and pressure are big/high. A progressive kit will allow you to run bigger nozzles and cool down those higher psi runs.

[6D6GOAT]

i thought about the v bands. do you mean actually have the stock cast iron machined with the V band outlet? that was a thought but i didnt want to mess with having now custom machined manifolds. i liked the idea that if one cracked or went bad i could simply bolt on another stock one.

as for the alky injection. its not a real big pump or nozzle. the motor shows now signs of bogging at low boost...and if it did i would simply readjust it so it came on a little bit later.

where do you get straight methanol? as for windshield washer fluid i read that you need the stuff that is rated to like 30 below....and thats hard to find out here in Redondo Beach damn this sunny and 72 degrees weather everyday!!!

on a safety note...should i be concerned about a small cloud of a 50/50 mix of water and alcohol in between shifts?

[health services]

Isn't alcohol a fuel and is it something that should be compensated for if injected?






And Don't know how it is safety wise but can you use reference pressure from the intake to injection tank? That way the pump will not have a hard time to overcome intake pressure and when there is no boost the tank will not have pressure. That is if your injection is on the pressure side.

[69Goat1]

Keep this thread going as a Turbo fell into my lap yesterday

[lemans411]

Originally Posted by 69Goat1

Keep this thread going as a Turbo fell into my lap yesterday

ouch that had to hurt ! lol

[6D6GOAT]

Originally Posted by 69Goat1

Keep this thread going as a Turbo fell into my lap yesterday

cool, how big??

[69Goat1]

Factory style Garrett for a 7.0 litre Diesel - Tom V said it would be great for a 550 HP 400 drive anywhere on pump gas deal

[6D6GOAT]

Just a little update.... so im walking out to my car one day and i notice the sway bar bracket kind of hanging lower that the other side. after a closer look i see that it is broken. ive never broken one of those before so i ordered a new one and some spark plugs. as i was installing the spark plug wires i noticed that my upper control arm is really close to my down pipe. it was basically rubbing and limiting the travel of the front suspension to about an inch of travel. im thinking that maybe going around the corner or pulling into a parking lot maybe put too much stress on the sway bar bracket causing it to break.

to make a long story short..... if you plan to install a turbo on your own be sure that you have the car on the ground at ride height when you fab up the down pipe

i had both front tires in the air but it was an easy fix...just pulled the down pipe, grabbed a BFH and with in minutes i had it fixed.

[Johnny406]

Can you fix the economy that way too?

[6D6GOAT]

Originally Posted by Johnny406

Can you fix the economy that way too?

Im afraid it going to take a lot more than a BFH

[6D6GOAT]

Originally Posted by 6D6GOAT

.........and on top of that...the bad cylinder (#7 has 50 pounds less PSI than the rest) is still making some noise.

i would rather post a vid AFTER i get the "real" motor built and installed.


PS..what does a broken ring sound like anyways in a running car? is it noticeable?

Soooo, THERES YER PROBLUM RIGHT THEERREEEE.... here is a pic of the number 7. fortunately the cylinder is still good. it WAS a stock cast piston. when i puleld the piston there was just a couple cracks. then when i removed the rings the pieces fell out.