[HWYSTR455]

Been a little slow for me lately, have been dealing with that flu they've been spraying us with.

Need to get some electrical done, have the AAW Classic Update kit, and working on the rear light, intermediate, and dome sections.

The AAW kit it good in a lot of ways, but does have some short-falls. One thing the kind of bothers me is that the intermediate harness and the rear light harness is all one long length that's about 24 feet long. That makes it harder to layout, and harder to manage, so I broke it into 2.

Another thing that bothers me is that the all the harnesses are just one big batch of individual unterminated wires, and no loom. I understand why, but it's still kind of a pain. It takes some effort to organize, layout, and adapt to one's specific build/taste, but there again, understand.

Big thanks to FormulaBruce and a few others that provided images of how the original harnesses run, I wanted to follow the OE to some degree.

Using the OE intermediate harness and the pics shared with me, I laid it out, did e-tape about every 2 feet apart to hold it together, mocked it up along the OE path, and marked where the end of the intermediate should be then cut it.

Then laid out the dome wires, determined length, covered with expandable nylon loom, and using repop clips mounted in the @ OE location.

I covered the intermediate with self-closing nylon mesh loom, and terminated the end with a 6-way metri-pack connector. Metri-pack 150 series connectors have a 30a max capacity, and since I'm using LEDs, will no way exceed that.

I added a 2-wire run to the intermediate that will be used for the stereo amp-on and the fuel pump relay trigger wire, and used a 2-way metri-pack there as well.

for the dome connector I used the Packard 56 connectors, and added a power pigtail for the trunk light I plan on using, which will be a LED light strip, motion sensor, and the LED light for license plate.

Another shout-out to FormulaBruce on the motion sensor idea. The OE trunk light setup uses a failure-prone and annoying mercury switch, and the light it provides barely lights the opening of the trunk. The motion sensor I found has a wide trigger range, and adjustable timer of 1-10 min.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mini...ini-pir-switch

I will use micro connectors for the trunk light strip and motion sensor.

I was able to find the OE type dome light harness retaining clips, but the last 2 or 3 clips would need to be in an area where the roof subframe is too close to the outer roof sheet metal, and don't fully seat. Since I'm going with a 1-piece headliner, I am worried it might prevent it from laying properly, so will prob just use a couple short strips of gorilla duct tape.

Found an assortment of harness clips which appear to be they type used for the hard plastic accordion type loom, but will work well with the loom I'm using. There is an existing hole in a brace in the trunk where the OE harness appears to mount, and will use that for the mount where the intermediate connector is.

I have 2 LED license plate lights, one is cool white, the other is green (car is a green theme), and will put a switch on them so I can use one or the other. In my state, last year, a new law went into effect for colored lights on vehicles and HID, blue and other lights, restricting them. No colored halos, no colored interior lights, nothing. I suspect many will complain since many new cars came with similar lights, and people are going to push back. But we shall see.

So next on the list is to complete the rear light harness, and need to add a wire for power to the fuel sending unit I will be using.



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[Gator67]

Cool to see your progress. I had some of the same reactions about the AAW classic update kit when I did my '70. I'm finishing up a '79 now, and much easier/fewer surprises the second time!

One thing to be aware of is that for a while the dash harness in the 70-73 kit was way to short...and no way to stretch/cheat enough to make it work. I bought mine in '21 and it had this problem. AAWs fix was to send me a 74-81 dash harness and instructions to re-pin the front light harness where it plugs in to the back of the fuse box...there were a couple other small changes needed to make it all work, but relatively simple. They were aware of this ongoing issue and were working to fix it, but not sure if/when changes were made. So you may want to check to make sure the dash harness is long enough.

Another thing you mentioned is that Metripack 150 connectors are rated for 30amps. From my understanding 150s are rated for only 15amps...the 280s are 30amp (and 480 are like 40). Shouldn't matter with LEDs, but thought I'd mention it.

For the '79 I'm doing now, I switched from Metripack 150 and 280 connectors to Deutsch DT and DTP. Deutsch connectors are more compact and solid feeling, and a lot easier to make and disassemble than Metripack.The newer JR Ready Deutsch crimpers they sell on Amazon work for DT, DTP as well as the smaller DTM connectors...they're expensive but they make the process of making connectors almost foolproof and a real time saver. For anything over 30amps I still used Metripack (480 or 630), but there isn't much need for those other than power connections to amplifiers, fans, fuel pump, etc.

[HWYSTR455]

I forgot to post a completed pic, did that now! I decided to move up a little higher than the OE mount hole, and will run the rear light harness on the trunk opening lip with the OE retainers.

Good catch on the 150s, true, 14-15 amp rating, not sure what I was thinking! I was running in and out of the garage, and wanted to post before I forgot.

Yes, the DT and DTP are more compact, I too am starting to switch. I have a crimp tool, but it's an off-brand and a little flimsy. I plan on getting a better one. JReady is a great source.

I still have a bunch of 150 stuff, and some GT 150 stuff, once gone will completely switch over.

The DT now comes in black, hoping they will offer black in the rest of the series. I have a 2 and a 4-way kit, not sure how much I have left but will start buying as much of the black ones as possible.

I like the fact that the pins are solid, and it's way easier to crimp (with a quality crimper). The seal doesn't require crimping either, takes a step and potential error out of the assembly process. Also the amp rating has a higher base rating, but it obviously still is dependent on the gauge wire.

I still have a bunch of Metri-pack 280, 480, and 630, those will take time to burn thru.

I remember now you mentioning before about the dash harness being too short, I honestly can't recall when I purchased, but dang, I hope I got the later one. It has the 70-73 instructions tho. Uhg.

Will know shortly, getting close to getting back to the dash stuff. Just need to find and unpack it! I've already double-bought stuff I couldn't find and then looking for other stuff end up finding! Uhg!


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[HWYSTR455]

More progress, almost done with the back half of the car, trunk, electrical, etc.

Got the rear light harness done, just need to add a couple loom clips. Going to use some coated adel clamps on the studs of the tail light bezels to hold them in place.

I plan on using a gas sender that requires key-on power, so I highjacked the 3rd brake light wire included in the AAW kit for it.

I wanted to break out the tail lamp sockets on their' own with connectors, so in the future if one needs to be replaced it will be pretty much plug & play. It does bulk up the harness some though, it's a trade off.

Also, I ran the rear light harness along the opening of the trunk using the same clips used along the trailing edge, I felt it was cleaner and more out of the way than running it in the trunk drop-off gutter. This allows me to run the trunk light strip and motion sensor wires in the same path.

Have some small detail work to do, mostly cosmetic, after most of the assembly is complete will go back and do that stuff.

I've been struggling with the fitment of the trunk mat, and in the process of numerous in & out with it, I pulled a retainer off a couple of amp wires, will have to fix that too.

Next on the list is to build out the doors. Am struggling with the repop drip rails' fitment, if I can't get them to fit reasonably well I will step back and clean/polish the ones that were on it. They are stainless as well and in restorable shape, but will take some effort. Uhg.

Will try to get the Vintage Air evap case mocked up too, so I can find a spot for the manifold. Unfortunately, the VA kit is missing the main rear bracket from the kit, and considering I bought it years ago, will probably have to buy one.

[HWYSTR455]

On the light sockets included with the AAW kit, those dang things are difficult to insert and turn to lock. I don't know if it's the light housing (repop), the sockets, or a combo of both, but crap they didn't want to screw in there.

I even took the housing back out and sat there for like 30+ min trying to lock those things in and the one side was a no-go. Had to trim the socket a little to get them to work.

I even tried the new sockets on the original housings, same thing, no-go no matter how hard I tried. So pretty sure it's the sockets.

I compared them to the originals and really couldn't see a difference, maybe I didn't look hard enough, or just lost patience.

Only the one side required the sockets to be trimmed, go figure. The AAW sockets are left & right by color of wires, and didn't want to mix them up, but the right set would fit in either housing.


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[HWYSTR455]

Called Vintage Air, purchased the kit like 8 years ago, mentioned the missing bracket, and they said no problem, shipping it to me for free. Nice.

Since I have a smoothie plate, and wanted the OE center vent stuff, I ordered the 'with AC' kit. I mentioned that to VA, and he commented that the center vent & passenger side adapter pieces that came in that kit had a revisions, so he sent that stuff free too! Woohoo!

I noticed the body guy didn't properly install the smoothie plate in the process of initial mock up, and that I need to fix. Uhg. So hard to find good body shops, it's terrible.

Went to start building out the doors and realized some of the hardware is missing, not sure what I did with it, but spent a solid day digging to try to find that stuff. Could have sworn I had that stuff but after the move I'm having troubles finding anything. Anyway, I just ordered the stuff I can't find, should have it by Friday.

Got everything in the trunk done except for the one marker light that I need to fit, there's paint build up on the bezel and quarter, will have to knock that down.


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[HWYSTR455]

Someone mentioned that the AAW Classic Update Kit had issues where they where the dash harness was short. I went out today and mocked it up and mine appears to be fine.

Pic may be a little hard to see it, but the fuse box is in the proper location, I draped the wire bundle thru the one OE retainer on the kick panel area, and over where the column would be, and it looks good to me.

Any area that might be short for the gauges is kind of moot since I have aftermarket gauges and am making a sub-harness to allow slack for the gauge panel to be removed when the dash is in the car. So I'm good there.

Maybe I'm missing something?


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[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Someone mentioned that the AAW Classic Update Kit had issues where they where the dash harness was short. I went out today and mocked it up and mine appears to be fine.

Pic may be a little hard to see it, but the fuse box is in the proper location, I draped the wire bundle thru the one OE retainer on the kick panel area, and over where the column would be, and it looks good to me.

Any area that might be short for the gauges is kind of moot since I have aftermarket gauges and am making a sub-harness to allow slack for the gauge panel to be removed when the dash is in the car. So I'm good there.

Maybe I'm missing something? .

You must have the updated version then. The fuse box for the one I received for my 70 wouldn’t reach where it needed to go. I could move it over and get it in place but everything else was in the wrong spot. Was not a one off issue (a friend here had the exact same issue and AAW was aware of it).

[HWYSTR455]

Project updates:

Installed the drip rails, weatherstrip channels, weatherstrips, and the window fuzzies.

I purchased new repop drip rails and channels, and on the passenger side, the drip rail wasn't formed right and no way would work. The channel fit great though.

So I had to clean and polish the original, which honestly was in great shape.

I test fitted the driver's side repop drip rail and it fit great, but the channel had the same issue the drip rail on the other side had, formed incorrectly in the same manor. I was able to bend/mod it enough to get it to work, so no real loss there.

I dunno, I bought that stuff like 5+ years ago, maybe I laid something on the box or whatever, but kinda doubt it.

Built out the doors, regulators, tracks, door handles & locks, etc.

I had a NOS regulator for the driver's side, only thing with that was there were no nuts welded on them, guess they were riveted ones. I just used serrated flanged nuts and bolts, done.

Went to do the passenger side regulator and the rollers were a hair too large to fit in the original tracks. Posted a separate thread on that, but ordered a different brand one, should be here any day.

I will post on the regulator thread with updates once I get the new one.

Pulled the PUI one piece ABS headliner out of the box and started working to flatten it, once I get it install I will post a thread on that, some were asking I do so since I'm converting from the bow type to the one piece.

I'm going to unbox the dash and start finishing the gauge install and do the dash harness next.

So moving right along, even though I had the flu, holidays, and parts woes.


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[HWYSTR455]

Originally Posted by Gator67

You must have the updated version then. The fuse box for the one I received for my 70 wouldn’t reach where it needed to go. I could move it over and get it in place but everything else was in the wrong spot. Was not a one off issue (a friend here had the exact same issue and AAW was aware of it).

I didn't think it was a one off issue, and should have looked back and checked who mentioned it.

So what was off, the ignition switch stuff? Mine 'appears' to all reach, but I may not reach once I have everything in place. If there's a metric I can use before I get everything installed that would be great.

Can you think of something I can use to check? Maybe the headlight or wiper switch or something?



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[Gator67]

As a general guide, the three instrument cluster connectors should land just to the outside of the steering column hump (between the hump and where the large green wire channel clip goes). Then if you measure the cluster of wires from the edge of the dash pad to the fuse block (extending the wires in line with the dash pad), you should have about 14" give or take. If you then place the wires in the channels in the dash pad and secure them with the clips, you should have just enough length to reach the passenger side courtesy light with that courtesy light harness installed (running those wires in the channels/path above the glove box door). If they don't quite reach you can adjust the harness in the channel, in which case the instrument cluster connectors will be closer to the steering column hump. But if the courtesy light is really close to where it needs to be, and you don't want to move everything, you can cheat a little with the routing of the courtesy light harness...just skip the inside or outside corner). The first photo below is my '70 dash with the updated harness AAW sent me. The other photos are of the '79 I'm working on now. Note that I'm running DD instruments, Vintage Air, and Raingear wipers, so most of the dash connectors will be unused.

With the harness that didn't fit, the three instrument cluster connectors needed to be near the edge of the dash in order for the fuse block to fit, and even then the courtesy light connector was no where close to where it needed to be.

[HWYSTR455]

Outstanding info, thank you VERY much!

I just pulled my dash out of hibernation, and will mock up the harness.

Ok, just so I have this correct, you're saying that with the harness in the dash channel, the instrument connectors should be just at the edge of the hump for the column? And there should be @ 14" of wire from the edge of dash to the fuse box?

I'm running NVU gauges, and will create an adapter harness with slack so I can remove the gauge bezel with the gauges attached. I can make that as long as I want, and figure if need be can move the AAW harness over some to the edge of dash.

Will be doing vintage air too. (Wish I could pull of the Raingear stuff but no tin the cards right now).

I'm using LED light strips for footwell lighting, so that too I'm prepared to mod.

I hope I can find the harness clips for the dash, know I have them, just not sure where I put them before my move.

I have a bunch of leftover wire from another install, I could use that stuff if I wanted to extend some stuff, but uhg.


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[Gator67]

Originally Posted by HWYSTR455

Outstanding info, thank you VERY much!

Ok, just so I have this correct, you're saying that with the harness in the dash channel, the instrument connectors should be just at the edge of the hump for the column? And there should be @ 14" of wire from the edge of dash to the fuse box.

yep, that's how we did our's here.

[HWYSTR455]

Getting the pedal assemblies cleaned up and assembled, using Billet Specialties pedal pads, shift lever, boot, and window cranks. Should look pretty good.

Weather delayed shipments of minor stuff I am waiting on, but did get the door seals installed. Wasn't real happy with the way the SoffSeal door weather strips fit on the molded ends, but since I had them, used them. If they don't work out I can replace them later.



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