[Judas]

Alright, time for an update. My knee is healed up enough that I can get some things done.
Due to the bloodthinners, I still cannot do metal-work because the risk of cut is, IMHO, simply too high. I still can't stand for long periods or do things that involve getting down on the ground, but something is better than nothing.

My father-in-law helped setup a work area in my basement, so I spent lots of time methodically constructing a new wiring harness using a kit from Kwik-Wire. Overall, I was very happy with the Kwik-Wire package for the price. It does require more work, but I obviously have plenty of time to do so.

Using the OEM harness and diagram, I've redone every circuit in the car. I harvested the orginal terminals from the old harness and soldered/shrink wrapped them to the new harness. Any new terminals were soldered as well.

After a mockup of the harness, I installed a new jute firewall pad and ran the wires through. I also installed the core support and routed the headlight wires through that as well. By chance, I found the alternator brackets that have been missing for years (misplaced when I took the car apart). I stripped and painted them with high-heat black. I cleaned the PS bracket, but in reality it should be sand-blasted. However, considering that my engine paint is now flaking off due to age and I just want to drive this thing after 10 years of waiting, I am not stopping for that. After cleaning the original power steering pump as best I could (It was a greasy mess), I reinstalled it and the bracket. It immediately became clear that something wasnt right as I was tightening the bolts, so I removed the pump and placed a thick washer between the pump-stud and the pot-metal bracket. I don't know if this was originally installed, but it sure makes the pump a lot straighter with regards to the pulleys.

Finally, I installed the new, internally regulated alternator. I got a beautiful chrome alternator on sale for the price of a standard finish one at Carlisle.

I don't usually post pics here because I have over 600 pics over at facebook and I can't link via URL in their "attachments" window, but here is a look at where it's at. I don't know why pic 3 came out so dark. The link to the current album is:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3500440&type=3

Newest pics are at the bottom. I might start another album since this one is pretty large.

[Judas]

Has it really been January since the last update? Wow. Anyhow, much has gone on in that timeframe.

Most importantly we welcomed our 3rd daughter to the world! Wife and baby did awesome and baby is great...except she sleeps all day and parties all night. Also, I got my leg brace off and the blood filter out, but I still have ton of rehab and improvement to make.

With so much going on and still being disabled, I haven't gotten a ton done, but here are a few things. I've been thinking that the resto is veering away from pure body work so if the mods want to move the thread to the 68-69 GTO forum, I'd be fine with that.

I cleaned and re-installed the hood latch with some painted bolts. I wont be painting all the bolts, just the really visible ones. I installed some new, "Pontiac specific" plug wires (an xmas gift) which required a re-clock of the distributor to make fit. Installed the original AC condenser, core support strut, and one of the horns. Also painted and installed the hood release rod, and the bumper + frame extensions. Since the bumper is on, I decided to install the grills (even if temporary) to free up shelf space and hopefully protect them. I cleaned, painted and partially installed both front wheel wells.

Next up is the radiator and shroud. Boy, does the one-piece 'cheaper' shroud suck. I couldnt get the oem bolts to start in the clips up top. I guess the repro is thicker than the original. I installed the rad. hoses and loose fit the belts. Thats when I realized there seems to be virtually no way to install the fan/pulley/extension combo with the 1 piece shroud in place. I wasted 2 hours trying to get everything aligned, but the position is just too awkward. I guess I'll have to pull the radiator and try to go at through the gap between the shroud and core support.

I cleaned both quarter glass and installed new vertical seals. Using tips from here, it was easy. I disassembled the lower portion of the steering column to install a new rubber boot since the previous one disintegrated. I am having trouble pressing out the shaft-pin though. I have a 12 ton press, and got it flush to the shaft, but dont have anything to safely drive it through.

Given the choices between a new blower box for 280$ (AC car) and 16$ for the fiberglass repair, I opted for the repair kit since this is a driver. I 'glassed' the box, but will need another pass to build up the missing corner (nearest the engine).

here is the newest FB album: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3500440&type=3

enjoy!

[webfoot]

Congrats on the newest addition! You can always remove the metal clip and pull the steering shaft out of the top end of the coupler. Good time to repack those special square bearings with grease.

[Judas]

Hey web! I just got caught up on your thread!

I did pull the shaft out and the square bearing things. Its the pin that the bearings sit on that is giving me the trouble. Unless I've got it wrong (quite possible), it looks like the seal went on first, then the pin + bearings. After that, the whole deal is slipped into the coupler and the big seal retaining ring-clip is installed into the coupler to hold it in place. I have to get the pin out to slip the seal past it.

[webfoot]

I did mine so long ago that I can't remember how it came apart. I believe I stretched the boot over the pin and left it in place.

[Judas]

I thought about that too. You know, I do have the pin pressed flush on one side of the shaft. If I slip the boot over the pin first, I might be able to stretch it up over the top of the shaft, then down. I'll have to give that a look before going crazy with the press.

[webfoot]

Sounds like you have a winner there.

[Judas]

Ok, lots of minor stuff.

First off; knee is coming along. No more brace, cane, or crutches; just rehab. I can get around the shop pretty decently. Baby is awesome.

Using a bolt as a driver, I pressed out the pin and got the boot on the steering shaft. In the process of dismantling the lower part of the shaft I might have destroyed (or at least seriously screwed up) the column. That thread is here: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=729603

Putting that on hold for now, I've completed the modifications and install of the radiator, shroud, bushings, hoses, fan and belts. Also, I've installed the front sway bar with new hardware and poly busings (end links as well). I fully installed the driver's headlight assembly and trim, and most of the passenger's. This took much longer than expected due to confusion from a hodge-podge of OEM and replacement hardware that was not interchangeable. I lost the screws to one of the headlight trim rings so the pass. side is currently on hold till I hit the hardware store.

I attempted to install the insulators and bushings to the trans cross-member, but found that it is most likely installed backward since the bolt holes are nowhere near where they should be.

Found 2 cracks in the pass wheel well where one of the bolts goes though to the body. I removed it for welding + repair. Mounted the hood latch 'spring' on the core support.

Onward!

[mike nixon]

Good news on the knee, good deal on the progress, Congrats on the baby, that one looks like a keeper.

Mike

[Judas]

Thanks! she gets cuter by the day.

More stuff to report:

Finished installing the headlight assemblies. Got replacement headlight ring screws from the local True-Value hardware store. They are just basic machine screws.

I decided to finally knuckle down and figure out the wiring system. This car is not destined to be an original show-winner, and the original harness was butchered badly. In fact, one of the reasons I took this car apart originally was that it "ate" regulators on a *daily basis and replacing the alternator did nothing (the other reason was that I sheared the rear wheel off in a burn out, which made me wonder how many other bolts were just as corroded and fatigued. I was right: the control arm bolts were so badly corroded they looked ready to quit at any second)

So, my plan was to upgrade and replace the system with something a bit more modern. While crippled last winter, I built up a Kwik-Wire harness using the old one as a donor for the various plugs and whatnot. I based all my measurements off the original and add a little extra 'just because'. But...a major problem surfaced.

The new spade-fusebox was about 2.5 times larger then the stock one. Regardless of how I tried to arrange it, I could not mount it in the original position due to the proximity of the column, parking brake brace + cable, ect. I looked on the other side of the firewall and with the power-brake booster there, I was looking at mounting it close to the engine...too close due to heat IMO.

I ended up mounting it on the drivers fender after mocking up the power booster and fender. Now I am cringing because this changes the lengths of the wires...how many I need to 'extend' remains to be seen. To do this, I had to remove the whole thing, untangle the spaghetti, and re-install. Time consuming!

[Judas]

This weekend I was largely thwarted by missing lots of little things, like sealant and electical connectors. So, I had to come up with some new things to do.

I attached the front brake hose retainers and a new set of hoses. This took a little time because I didnt mark left-right upon disassembly and had to figure out which was which.

I cleaned, oiled, and installed the parking brake cable pedal and brace. Ditto the battery tray (except the oiling part ;P ).

Weeks ago, I decided to try and fiberglass-patch the missing lower corner of the AC/Blower box. It turned out ok, but was rough. Using a worn-sanding disk in the angle grinder, I quickly smoothed out some of the ugliness and then I painted it with high-heat black to make it a little less visible. Turned out pretty good if I say so myself (pics to come).

I tested the blower motor and all was well so I decided to install that onto the box. Unfortunately, the seal appears way too small...yet the bolt holes and shape are correct. (?) I guess I'll seal it with some silicone-rubber like the box.

thats about it. It was a short day for working on the car...

[Judas]

Update:

"Shaped" and painted the fiberglass repair to the AC box. Doesnt look half-bad IMO. I smoothed and shaped it with a worn sanding disc + angle grinder using a light touch. Oh, I had my good filter mask (the one with the 'cans') on too since I prefer to not inhale fine fiberglass dust.

Partially dis-mantled the steering column, greased it, and reassembled. (The saga of the column can be found here: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...40#post5004940 )

Cleaned, painted and installed the power brake booster + reman. master cylinder. Wired up alt, but will need to 'clean up' the wire routing. Included a general 'state of the car' shot below

Next up; AC box installed and fabbing all new brake lines. Onward!

[Cerberus]

Forgive me, but I have to ask - why the red engine paint?

[Judas]

The only thing I dont like about Pontiac; the engine colors. Especially the light blue. I am not a big fan of Chevy orange either. My last 454 was bright yellow.

[Judas]

Updates:
I bought a double flaring tool from Advanced Auto. I dread these things because they tend to be of poor quality. They had 2 on offer, a 15$ one and a 35$. I opted for the 35$ one and after testing it on a 2-in piece, it worked fine.

Before getting to work fabbing new lines, I took care of a few minor items on the to-do list. First I reclocked the distributor because the vac. advance was almost touching the firewall (HEI conversion). I am happy with new setup, but my Pontiac-specific wires simply wont fit for some reason: 1 is just too short no matter how I arrange the wires. At least its the #7 and the yellow wire I swapped in (the rest are blue) is largely tucked behind the motor.

I hooked up the pressure-side power steering pump hose, but found the low-pressure return line was badly decayed and cracked. I'll have to get another.

Now I started on the brake lines. Right out of the gate I had a problem. I've got a 4-wheel disc setup and adjustable proportioning valve, but had to find a place to mount it. Its been so long since I took the car apart, I honestly couldnt recall where the oem distribution block was mounted and the bracket was different anyhow. I modified the distribution block bracket to work with the adj. valve and mounted it atop the frame below the Pwr. brake booster using a self-tapping bolt. There was and an existing hole in the frame that I am pretty sure is un-used.

I've never done this work before, and the new line came in a coil, so there is zero chance that I can make those picture-perfect straight lines. We will have to settle for 'functional'. The drivers side front was terrible to do- very sharp bends on a short length...but I got it. Still got plenty to do; passenger side front and from the adj. valve backward.

Thats it for now.

[Judas]

Been a while, so time for some updates.

Installed new low-pressure power-steering line.

I finished the left-right front brake lines and was pretty happy with the outcome. I did add one union behind the engine cradle to make life easier with creating this section. After that I created the front-rear feed up to the differential but ran into a problem. When I went to attach the hard line to the diff. hose, the hose popped out of the frame. Apparently the clip was not inserted all the way (or barely at all). I can't seem to be able to get it in by reaching up with my hand because the fit is too tight. I've deferred this till later.

Speaking of the axle; I removed the axles and installed the dust shields to the rear rotors. I ran into a delay because the spider gears in the diff. moved off center and I did not know how to correct that. I learned how and had it repaired in a minute. Diff. cover is installed as well as the hose retainer. This work also required remove/reinstall of the rear disk breaks, of course. Except for fluid, the axle is ready to roll now.

While under the car's rear, I decide to install the rear sway-bar. Unfortunately the tubular control arms I installed are fatter than the originals and the bolts were not long enough. Another trip to the hardware store and this is done.

I decided to take a brake from being on the floor and installed the blower/ac box plus the blower motor and the ventilation box in the passenger compartment. I can see why so many people ditch the OEM AC box. It really is huge and severely limits access on the pass. side of the engine. Anyhow after that, I loose fit the steering column but haven't bolted it down yet. Till later!

[Judas]

Update:

Alright, after some gnashing of teeth, I was able to get the box-column flange snaked past the headers and upper control arm studs. A lot harder than I was expecting. FYI Would be 1000 times easier with a helper. Anyhow, the column is bolted up and ready. I was pleased to find the new harness connectors reached even after relocating the fuse box.

After that, installed the blower + blower box, and the ventialtion distribution box. I ran into an odd problem with the distribution box: One of the horrid, cheap plastic firewall pad retainers (the x-mas tree things) was not seated all the way (the extreme upper right one), and the box flange overlapped it, so I couldnt tighten the box down without risking some damage.

Much to my shock, I had to pound that little plastic retainer with a maul and driver (a motorcycle axle) using my heartiest blacksmith swings. I couldnt believe that it would not go in or simply shatter, but eventually it did seat. Take my advice; pay extra for the rubber ones. I have some and they are infinitely better.

Anyhow, thats about all for now. I didnt have much time this session.

[salem1912]

Judas, I admire your "DIY" attitude. Once finish it will mean so much more to you. Glad to see you health is improving. Thanks for posting pictures,I can't open the facebook group though.

[Judas]

Thanks! It is hardcore DIY to be sure.

Btw, sorry I posted the install of the AC box twice. With so much time in-between posts, I sometimes forget what I posted last time.

On the facebook links..."hmm..." Dunno. They work for me. Can someone else try one and let me know how it goes? There is like 800 photos between the FB groups so I'd hate for them to not be viewable.

Update:
Got a tiny amount of time in over the holiday, so not a lot done. That kinda stings because traditionally, with a 4 day holiday, I try to get a full day in. Oh well.

Anyhow, I tightened down the steering coupler (aka 'rag joint'), then worked on a remaining problem with brake lines. The rear hole on the master cylinder is slightly larger then the front. None of the fittings in my kit or the auto supply fit it. Amazingly, weeks ago, I ran across a 1970 Chevelle in the junk yard while looking for parts for my beater. I plucked the rear fitting off the master cylinder and soaked it in vapo-rust. I tried to tap out the line from the fitting but it was still rusted in place. I then drilled it out using successively larger drill bits. Then I went to install it on the line...only to find out it is made for a larger diameter line.

At that point, I decided to mock install the dash to see if I could do so with the column in place and check wire lengths. I could do it by dropping the column off the two studs. A little bit of a morale boost seeing it installed.

[Judas]

Time for another update in the infinite restoration.

After more work, I finally finished all the brake lines front to back. The only remaining issue is the diff. brake hose retainer clip appears missing and the aftermarket ones I have are too thick to engage. I even tried tapping it in with a mallet, but the clip would prefer to bend vs. going in. Anyhow, the system was complete so I called it a day. I can insert the clip later.

Returning to the shop, I decide to add brake fluid and at least prime the system with my vac. pump. This is when I found out that a full 50% of the flares I created leak. I basically have to start over.

Trying to resist the urge to smash the car with a sledgehammer, I moved on to the fuel line. I played with trying to get the hard-line through the frame with no success. Eventually I just gave up in frustration.

At this point, I just wanted something to say that coming to the shop wasnt a waste of time, and I am pretty good at welding. I never finished the trunk floor because I couldnt reach all areas when the body was on supports. I cleaned out the trunk and set it up for welding.

Thats when I found out the spool in the MIG was down to just 3 'winds' around the spool.

I left the shop fantasizing about a the car on the back of a tow-truck's hook, never to be seen again. "Wouldn't it be nice?", a voice whispered, "...to not have these frustrations in your life?"