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PaulatFast · 01-31-2011, 01:11 PM

I have SPI epoxy, DP90LF, Nason 2k and SPI 2K on hand. I have contacted my local paint and body sources about getting a sample of thier primers/flex additives.

Although late for some... sorry, it will still be good information to have.
What do you guys want tested? It would be great to do a comprehensive test...

Cammer-6 · 01-31-2011, 03:17 PM

This maybe a dumb question but has anyone contacted a major paint manufacturer such as PPG,DuPont,RM to see what they say?
Im not convinced that the DuPont rep I spoke to really knew what was going on.
Paul,I could use some guidance on how to purchase SPI.

webfoot · 01-31-2011, 04:15 PM

Here is their contact info. If there is no jobber in your area, they ship it to you for free.

http://southernpolyurethanes.com/contact%20us.htm

Formula8 · 01-31-2011, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Formula8

Buffing and sanding seems like a lot of work for Paul. I think we can assume that a higher film thickness would increase the likelyhood of cracking. For my purposes and to keep it simple, I'm primarily interested in 4 rubber strips:

1) SPI epoxy/BC/CC
2) SPI epoxy/single stage
3) DP/BC/CC
4) Rubber seal 2K/BC/CC

Paul, see post # 25

PaulatFast · 02-01-2011, 12:09 AM

We have enough material to test more than that...
Any requests?

Cammer-6 · 02-01-2011, 08:42 AM

maybe a skim coat of the various repair compounds followed by the above

paint guy · 02-01-2011, 09:22 PM

Paul: I just noticed your info in the other active Endura thread and it makes alot of sense (heat cycles, sunlight exposure,etc.) If you are getting close to spraying the test panels, could you spray at least two of each system you want to test? I will run impact and gravel-o-meter on one panel, and QUV on another. QUV cabinet testing will expose each system to U.V. light, humidity (rain simulation) and temp. fluctuations (although not as sever as a freeze/thaw test.) If you have enough panels to spray 3 panels of each, I will also run a freeze/thaw test per G.M.s current spec. If you want to evaluate filler, you can incorporate this on the same metal panel by skimming only half of the panel, then paint the whole panel as you normally would. Just skim them lengthwise, not width-wise, and I can run side-by-side tests with and without filler. Any questions, just ask.

Cammer-6 · 02-01-2011, 10:22 PM

I hate to p!ss in the punch bowl but wouldnt using slices of real endura from a scrap bumper be more in tune with what results need to be?
And thanks to Paul for stepping up and trying this,no matter what the testing is.

6869GTO · 02-01-2011, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cammer-6

I hate to p!ss in the punch bowl but wouldnt using slices of real endura from a scrap bumper be more in tune with what results need to be?
And thanks to Paul for stepping up and trying this,no matter what the testing is.

I think that's a great idea !!! I'll donate the slices from a 69 ,and ship them to Paul if this really happens.

PaulatFast · 02-02-2011, 01:21 AM

Paint guy, what size samples do you need exactly to perform the tests? is there a minimum size and thickness?

paint guy · 02-02-2011, 01:30 AM

Paul, 3" x 5" panels will work for U.V. testing and gravel-o-meter. Slightly larger or smaller I can make work. If you still have those metal panels I sent you, that size will work as a guideline as they are std. paint test panels. If you can paint some of them up, I'll test impact on those, too.

PaulatFast · 02-02-2011, 01:36 AM

So sections out of the top of a 70 GTO bumper would work? Sounds like 68-69 bumpers would have limited sections that would qualify...

paint guy · 02-02-2011, 11:01 AM

If you can cut pieces close to that size, sure. I can also test parts with a little bend to them, but the flatter the better.

Cammer-6 · 02-07-2011, 07:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaulatFast

So sections out of the top of a 70 GTO bumper would work? Sounds like 68-69 bumpers would have limited sections that would qualify...

70-3 Firebird would work too. And Im sure theres more of them around.
If someone wants to send me a couple pieces Ill put some of the bumper adhesive/repair product I use on the new bumpers and plastics.
I can then send it to paint guy for product testing.

Cammer-6 · 02-08-2011, 04:57 PM

Got my answer from the tech depts engineer/scientist @ Lord adhesives.
I would like to apply some to a sample and have it evaluated.
If anyone has a piece of scrap endura send it my way.

dlcable · 02-22-2011, 08:07 PM

Gentlemen,
Great thread.
I’m very much looking forward to your results.
Keep up the good work!!

P.S. My car is two weeks out from paint, hurry… PLEASE.
Thanks!

PaulatFast · 02-23-2011, 06:55 AM

I have paint/additive samples coming from a couple different company's. Also will be sending out a few of the panels for additional samples...

Cammer-6 · 02-23-2011, 09:16 AM

anyone have any scrap endura you can send me to test the product I have?
I ll send it to paintguy for testing as Paul is doing

OrbitOrange · 02-28-2011, 12:20 PM

Cant wait to see the outcome here. Thanks for the guys that are doing these for us. I just started sanding my 70 gto endura last night with 80 grit on the DA. Looks better underneath that paint than I thought it would.

Has everyone determined the best product to repair the cracks and any broken pieces?

LemmyThe1972Wagon · 05-26-2011, 06:20 AM

so i've got my '72 firebird's nose stripped down to its original primer, and even after years of baking in the sun, it's still very flexible in most places. in some places it has started to chip off, but those places are near where the small chunks are taken out, so that's probably how it began to begin with. now, my car will be driveable long before any of the bodywork gets done other than replacing the floors and tail panel, but i'm still going to paint the nose to protect it from the elements. i was just thinking using spray paint cause it's cheap and quick and i don't have a spray gun.

so i think i'm going to take this opportunity to try out a primer with chlorinated rubber or a vinyl base, so does anybody know of any primer with one of those in them? and any idea on what to use for the single stage basecoat that will NOT receive a clear coat? like i said, this will be a temporary paint job to protect it while i get the money for the bodyshop, so it will be just a primer, then a BC, no CC. i would prefer it if the BC had a flex additive, but i know that may not be available in a spray can. actually, i just thought of this while typing--what about using aircraft flexible paint meant for the cloth material on some planes? i can't remember where i heard about that, but i wonder if that'll work.

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