[PontGuy]

I think your pics are just fine, getting good ones especially in a garage is hard. Look back to the two pics that I posted in the splatter paint thread not long ago. Neither is very good for showing what the paint actually looks like to the naked eye. And yes, I've found unpainted metal can come out looking very rusted in a digital photo.

Waiting to see how the new pan drops in.

[Greg Reid]

Got gray epoxy painted on all the areas where the perimeter of the pan will be plug welded and also on the repaired areas pictured above. Just need to do some filler/finish work to clean up the appearance in those spots..
I may fit it in place over the next couple of days...depends on wheter my son is around to help me slide in into the gap between the frame and the body.
After that, if all fits well, I'll start plug welding.

[Greg Reid]

Finally caught my son at home long enough for him to help me set the pan in place so...It's in there! Fits pretty nicely although it could use some minor tweaking to be 'jam up and jelly tight'...Aw heck... I'm just being picky. I could weld it in right now and it would look fantastic (with some liberal use of seam sealer in a couple of gaps).... All body-mount bolts lined up with very little, to no, 'outside persuasion'.
I'm pleased with it.
Pics to come.

[Greg Reid]

[Old Goat 67]

Looking GOOD Greg.

[russosborne]

Looking TOO good.

Now I want one of those too. I hadn't realized how much the full pan actually covered. I need one. Santa, are you reading this?

Russ

[Pontiac_Defender]

I love threads like this! It all looks great and is inspiring!

[Judas]

Looking great! I didn't know the full panel went all the way out back to the tail panel like that. I definitely would have gotten the full because my trunk pan was trashed on the driver's side all the way up through the tail panel.

[poncho447]

Lookin good Greg!

The full trunk pans make for a much nicer job.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks fellas....
The guys that told me to go with the full pan in this thread told me absolutely right. It costs more but it is identical in virtually every respect to the original...at least for the '68...and from what I've read, it's only slightly different than the '69.
Taking the old pan out is a REAL job but it's worth the effort.

I had to get kind of creative and use the winch in the photos to pull it forward about a half inch. I just didn't have the leverage to push it and I didn't want to beat he!! out of a brand new (and rather expensive) piece of sheetmetal.
The right side just behind the wheelwell needed a little flexing downward, so I used a heavy flat piece of steel and a c-clamp to persuade it...also seen in the photos. Other than that, fit is perfect.

I've just got a few hours of welding to do now and I'm good to go.

[6869GTO]

Looking awesome Greg. Great work!

[Greg Reid]

Thanks Leo! I hope to get a little welding done today....we'll see what I feel like this evening. Saturday is always my first 3am to 3pm day of the week.
I usually go home and sleep a couple of hours and at this time of year, it's about dark and kinda cold by the time I get up and feel like doing anything outside.

[BB70]

Nice job Greg, that's allot of work, but worth it. Had the same issue with the right wheelwell, sure wish mine went in like that. John

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by BB70

Nice job Greg, that's allot of work, but worth it. Had the same issue with the right wheelwell, sure wish mine went in like that. John

You mean the edge of the floor rode up a little too high on the wheelwell?
Definitely a lot of work. I think the worst thing I've done to the car since day one. I was seeing seam sealer and spot welds in my sleep.

[BB70]

On mine , the trunk pan would hit the wheelwell before it would be in all the way.I was short about 1/2 inch or more at the rear floor-seat divider.I think most people are replacing the wheelhouses at the same time and don't have this issue, I don't know. Anyway good job

[Greg Reid]

It would actually be good if mine could move forward another half inch to one inch as well. It fits good around the perimeter...and that's the important part...but I have just about one inch too much material at the rear edge.
It wouldn't be an issue at all except it's going to be tricky to clamp the rear lip to the trunk opening lip with those stamped raised ribs at the rear. If it were about one inch forward, I wouldn't have that...In other words, the raised ribs extend to the underside of my original rear trunk opening lip. When I press them together, there is a gap because of the raised ribs.

I think I'm going to add some material to the rear of the trunk opening lip to make it about one inch longer...then that'll extend past the raised ribs and give me two flat surfaces to sandwich together.

[6869GTO]

[QUOTE=I think I'm going to add some material to the rear of the trunk opening lip to make it about one inch longer...then that'll extend past the raised ribs and give me two flat surfaces to sandwich together.[/QUOTE]

Be sure the added metal dosent interfere with your bumper fittment.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by 6869GTO

Be sure the added metal dosent interfere with your bumper fittment.

If it does, that means the trunk pan will interfere with it too.
Just from eyeballing it, I don't think it will... but you are correct that I will need to check it.

[Greg Reid]

Finally am at the point where I need to spray the splatter paint. I'm thinking it'll take about three cans at $15 a pop.
I hate spraying large areas with rattle cans. Is there any alternative?

[poncho447]

OPG used to have trunk paint @ $99.00 a quart ...i dunno if they still do.