[Greg Reid]

Having a hard time pinning anyone nearby down on painting my car. I'm seriously considering the ins and outs of doing it myself. Anyone here done that?
I know they have but I can't come up with the proper search terms apparently.
It is metallic paint and I know it's not the best to learn on but I figure the worst I can do is have to sand it all off when I finish.
Feasible?

[squidtone]

Greg,
I did this this past June.
I sheet plastic'd my garage and did the job.
Are you talking about base / clear? Because that is the easiest in my opinion.
I did a single stage about 13 years ago, metallic paint, and it was kinda really hard, and it came out kinda lousy.
I did this last job on my GTO with basecoat/clearcoat and it was much easier. In addition, when you put on 4 layers of clear, you can "cut and buff" it to a super shine. This effectively gets rid of most of all the dust and flaws also.
Turns out the cheapest supply for paint was a local supplier for me. I spent 800 bucks on materials, not including a couple extra gallons of epoxy primer. that was for RM paints.
A cheaper way would be to get all your materials EXCEPT the basecoat from SPI, Southern Polyurethanes. I got some stuff from them, they're great to deal with. SPI only makes a few colors of base. They don't mix base colors to spec. so you have to get it locally unless you're okay with the limited color chart SPI offers.

I'd say go for it. I'm pretty happy with my first base/clear job, except I wish I had just done one thing different....dusted on one last thin layer of base (a 4th coat)....it would have eliminated some slight tiger striping I have. but overall I am happy with it.

[Greg Reid]

That's exactly the kind of information I'm looking for Dave. Yes, I plan to do a BCCC. I did the jambs in single stage. I did it without too much tiger striping and just a couple of runs...but not good enough for an entire paint job. I have sanded all of the overspray from that away, right up to the edge of the doors, hood, etc. . I have since determined that BCCC might be more forgiving....if I can avoid tiger striping.... due to the reasons you just mentioned: I can cut and buff the clearcoat.
I was a little concerned about the tiger striping as well. I know that white, yellow, red or something of that nature might be easier than the Meridian Turquoise Poly but that's the color of my car...so, that's that.
I buy all of my body supplies at a local house so that's not a problem. I've got the car ready to paint...to my satisfaction anyway, so I just need to paint.
I figure I'll need a better quality gun and I'll need a good buffer and some good instructions on how to proceed once the paint is on but I know I can get that here.
I have a friend that I can call also for instructions on that. I was going to get him to paint it for me but I don't think I have the patience to sit and wait while he gets it done. Could be months I think.
I'd rather be doing something, and after all...he was the one who told me years ago.."If the body work is good and you know how to cut and buff, you can do a good paint job yourself."

By the way...I followed the link in your signature and I agree...Came out great!

[GOAT WHORE]

Greg, if your having troubles with "striping" in the jambs you might want to reconsider or at least practice untill you figure it out.
What kind of gun do you have, cheap or quality? Do you have a friend or club member that can be on hand to help out, mixing/thinning, air pressure, distance etc..etc... Even just a quick lesson on moving the gun and trigger operation can make a lot of difference. I have seen friends try to work a spray gun and it has been very entertaining. I have taken the gun and showed them a little how too's and they could operate quite a bit better. FWIW.

[2cdavis3]

About time you get some paint on that car Greg Good luck & let me know when you get it painted so I can come see that color But hope it warms up I was up there this weekend had thick frost on car & ground all 3 days I was there

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by GOAT WHORE

Greg, if your having troubles with "striping" in the jambs you might want to reconsider or at least practice untill you figure it out.
What kind of gun do you have, cheap or quality? Do you have a friend or club member that can be on hand to help out, mixing/thinning, air pressure, distance etc..etc... Even just a quick lesson on moving the gun and trigger operation can make a lot of difference. I have seen friends try to work a spray gun and it has been very entertaining. I have taken the gun and showed them a little how too's and they could operate quite a bit better. FWIW.

Actually, the only place I have any striping is on the underside of the trunk lid which I painted on the car. That may have had something to do with it...spraying up from an awkward position. The door jambs came out fine except a run here and there...but even the factory left runs in there. Also, again, I painted them while on the car so it's a little awkward getting into the hinge area.
The gun is a cheap 'Startline' model. Fine for primer but not optimal for topcoats I know. Generally, I feel ok about my spraying technique as far as my mechanics go at least..... If I have any issues, and I do, it's with setting the air/product mixture ratio consistently. I'll definitely get some practice in first on some scrap panels I have around here. Right now, I'm leaning towards trying it though.

[squidtone]

I think you can do this with no problem.
I am cheap, because I have to be (lo budget). But I try to do the best I can with what I've got.
I used an Astro EVO LVLP 1.4 tip gun, and I think it was a pretty good gun for a cheapie. Key thing is with these is to make sure you have at LEAST 22 PSI at the gun. Any less and poor atomization is just going to be miserable.
My 60 gallon compressor kept up with painting with no problem, but I think I could have been better off with hi flo fittings. I just never got to it before I sprayed. The plumbing of the hose with traditional fittings limits good air flow.

I am saving for a buffer right now. I haven't cut and buffed yet after 7 months! (just taking my time assembling everything else) As for the cut and buff, I am going to use 1500, 2000, 2500, and then the Maguiars route with the 205 and 105 compounds.
I only "hung" a few small runs down low on a fender, and I have already sanded those down with some 600 grit VERY carefully.
I watched the James Freddys guy on youtube on how to "cut" the clear, and I think he did a great job explaining it. It's on the Bronze firebird he did. A good resource to check out.

Anyway, GOOD LUCK!

Dave

[65Mark]

If you were closer I'd come over and shoot it for you. A good gun is important, don't try putting paint with a cheap gun and expect good results. Especially if you don't paint all the time. A good painter can do a decent job with a cheaper gun, and a new painter can do a decent job with a good gun but... a new painter and a cheap gun and all bets are off. There are lots of sites on the net that can give you some tips on how to shoot bc/cc, you should at least read some of them.

Here is a forum you can read, some good info there.
http://www.asetusa.com/phpBB3/

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by 2cdavis3

About time you get some paint on that car Greg Good luck & let me know when you get it painted so I can come see that color But hope it warms up I was up there this weekend had thick frost on car & ground all 3 days I was there

We'll do...but I can assure you, it probably won't be before mid-March, maybe early April. Temps should be nice and the humidity should still be low.
I haven't seen any frost this year here and the coldest temperatures of the year so far are forecast for tonight...27 degrees. Not bad for mid January.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by 65Mark

If you were closer I'd come over and shoot it for you. A good gun is important, don't try putting paint with a cheap gun and expect good results. Especially if you don't paint all the time. A good painter can do a decent job with a cheaper gun, and a new painter can do a decent job with a good gun but... a new painter and a cheap gun and all bets are off. There are lots of sites on the net that can give you some tips on how to shoot bc/cc, you should at least read some of them.

Here is a forum you can read, some good info there.
http://www.asetusa.com/phpBB3/

Mark, I wish you were closer too...I can assure you that I will be looking at that and almost everything I can get my eyes on. I do plan to get a better gun for this as well. Already have some good advice just from this thread.

Dave, I appreciate the vote of confidence. I'll try not to let you down!

[paint guy]

A couple of more tips: Spray in the A.M. if possible, usually less wind and less bugs. Keep the gun perpendicular to the surface, In other words, move your arm and body when spraying, not your wrist. Pull the gun back slightly on your last coat of base if its a metallic, you'll get a more pronounced look. If your neighbors are close, spray on a workday to minimize potential overspray complaints. Observe the minimum "flash-off" times between coats of clear (won't hurt to wait longer) to minimize chances of solvent popping. finally, wear a respirator, especially when you spray the clear, and don't worry about a run or two in the clear, they can be fixed. Good luck.

[Greg Reid]

No neighbors within a thousand feet or so and nothing but woods in between. What kind of respirator is recommended? Not looking to go into business mind you...just what will work for a hobby type car nut like me...

[paint guy]

You can get an adequate respirator at Menards or Home depot (3M) for about $30-40. Just change the filters on it after spraying your clearcoat. I would not recommend this if you were spraying every day, but you're only spraying one car and its outside.

[65Mark]

The paint store should have a good 3M respirator for about $25-30, I would also get a pair of overspray goggles (about $13), unless you buy a full face respirator but those are spendy at about $160. The isocyanates have easy access to your system through your eyes, so protect them one way or another.

edit: Paint guy posted while I was typing... He's quick

[Greg Reid]

I've once again proven the old adage. I had an old but never used full face respirator that I'd had for years and never used. I had no instructions for it and didn't know what cartridges it used. In a fit of housecleaning, I threw it out.
Anyway, keep the suggestions coming. I'll be using this thread as a reference when the time comes.

[rexs73gto]

Greg I painted my car in my own garage in 1996 & did it all by myself ,,, well with a bunch of ideas & help from my paint shop mgr. I asked I think about every question I could think of & he told me all the things he does in the body shop at the dealer i worked at at that time. So ask as many questions you need to feel comfortable. I did & it helped. I've done a few more since then & each one gets easier. If I was closer to I'd come & spray it for you to. Just a few hints, again get the best gun you can get. See if you can barrow one from someone , rnt a GOOD ONE, or buy a good one. Binks & devillibus make good guns, there a little expensive but well worh it if your going to want a good job. A couple of hints. Whereever your painting make sure you have good ventalation. If your painting inside it's good to blow the space out good before you paint a day before. I painted in my 3 stall garage, I put up plastic on the walls to keep my parts & everything else from turning red when I painted. Also I went in a few hours before & sprayed the floor with water to hold down the dust. I didn't have a vent fan so I put 2 fans in the door way (garage door) & covered the middle & sides with plastic & that gave me a good draw out of the garage because I had a small window open in my compressor room so I could get fresh air in. I sprayed the walls a little just to help keep the dust down. Make sure you have everything you need close so you don't have to go in & out any more then you absoulity have to. Set up a table with all your paint & clears so you don't have to go in & out. Make sure you have a step so you can get up above your work , your hood , trunk & roof without falling into or on the car. Now your close to spraying. Have something in the area your at to test your gun spray on, not your car first. Make sure you get your gun set before you start spraying. That way when you spray the car whats coming out of the gun is a good pattern. It's best to if you have a springy belt on so you can put the hose over your sholder & hook it in that belt so it doesn't swing out & hit the car on accident. Make sure it's over your sholder going behinde you. Have a couple of the filter for you mask handy to, you don't want to have to stop spraying a full coat because you can't breath. Keep a rag handy so you can clean off your fase mask if for some reason it gets paint on it. The best & next thing to remember LOCK THE DOOR so no one can come in & get a blast of bad air in your spraying area. LOCK THE DOOR>!!!!!! Last remember anything can be fixed so relax & spray easy. Overlap at 50% when spraying & keep the same distance while spraying. Follow these simple thing & I think you'll do just fine. Remember relax & go easy , have a good time & think about how nice it will turn out.

[1969GTO]

just to give you some idea,mine was painted this past summer 2012 in my friends big garage.
He used several fans to push-pull air out,plactic covered every thing,all the lighting you can get.
The car came out great,base coat clear coat,Matador Red.
We still plan on having the car wet sanded and buffed. I'd like a little more shine
Have fun and take your time.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks rex. Good advice. It's going to be a stretch doing it inside unless I wait until my wife is out of town...or I send her out of town. My garage is large enough (maybe...barely) but the only way for me to ventilate it would be to use the door going into the house for return air.
I really think it's going to be outside. I may have to use a lawn sprinkler to soak the nearby ground for a few hours before I spray.

1969 GTO, that looks very nice. That's how I'm planning to do mine. It's completely assembled, the jambs are sprayed and I just want to tape it off and spray. I thought it would be easy to find someone to do it in a couple of weeks or so but no luck.

[2002Z4CSS]

Some of my best and great looking paint jobs came from a driveway. I even painted a Camaro in my gravel driveway in 2010 that did not even have any dirt in the paint.

[Greg Reid]

I've been looking at some of the link posted by 65Mark and also at autobodystore.com
There seems to be a concensus that I need a dedicated gun just for clear and another for base and other uses. I gather that it's to keep the clear product from becoming contaminated by a gun that has had color in it.
What are your thoughts on this?
I've already got like 4 or 5 guns around here for primer with variously sized tips. Some have barely been used. Can I use the best one of those (Start Line) for base and buy a nice quality one for clear?