[Greg Reid]

Ok. The hose I just bought is shorter than my old one and made from rubber for more flexibility and because it'll lay down better. Bought it just for painting. It's also why I bought the higher flow couplings.
The only restriction in this hose is at the threaded end. Still larger than my old one but I may ream the brass fitting out just a bit if it seems necessary.

[65Mark]

I have never used an enlarged fitting set up and never had a problem. Set the pressure at the gun and have the wall regulator set at 80 and you're good to go as long as the compressor has enough cfm capacity.

[Bob Scott]

Milton v-style couplers are rated at 74scfm and were designed for use with hvlp. Their m-style is rated at 40 scfm. I switched to the v-style but can't tell any difference. the v-style coupler will accept m or a style plugs so you shouldn't have to switch the fittings on your other tools. northerntool.com and autobodytoolmart.com sell them.

[Greg Reid]

Alright, thanks guys. I had never had any problem using my tools or my old paint gun but this one cautioned to use the high flow only so I just wanted to give myself the best chance for positive results.

[gto406]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Alright, thanks guys. I had never had any problem using my tools or my old paint gun but this one cautioned to use the high flow only so I just wanted to give myself the best chance for positive results.

True, never hurts to follow their instructions. That way, if you end up having issues with the gun, the manufacturer can't point to that as a possible 'reason for problems'.

Very informative thread Greg, thanks!

BR/Brian.

[Cammer-6]

heres some pics of the fittings on my gun

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by Greg Reid

Sounds like a nightmare...I really feel for you. Mine may wind up just as bad. If it does, I'll just have to do it all over again. At least I give myself excellent rates on labor.

I should have trusted myself looks like a reshoot just do all you prep work that's what make a paint job..

[1966geeto]

Originally Posted by paint guy

How would you describe what is wrong with your paint job? Runs/sags in the clear can usually be fixed easily enough, whereas discrepancies in the color coat may require a re-shoot. "Dead spots" may just be areas of dry spray/ poor flowout and may be fixable.Is it possible for you to post pictures?

Been really sick going to try to get some pics up tomorrow maybe you could give me some advice..

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Cammer-6

heres some pics of the fittings on my gun

The one on your gun and the one on the right in photo 3 are the ones I bought. They look like they'll eliminate any potential bottleneck to airflow. Unless I learn differently, I'll go with them.
Brian, you are welcome!

[Cammer-6]

yes the one on the right and the one on my gun are one in the same.
These fittings are available at Lowes.

My gun has a regulator and isnt as fussy on air pressure as alot of guns
It has a gauge on the aircap pressure as well as cup pressure and I can vary either.
Its a unique gun in that the body can be used for several different cups/aircaps/nozzles.
So you can switch from base to clear without cleaning the gun,just twist the release and change the nozzle/aircap/cup assembly.
The pressurized cup makes the suction style cup act more like a gravity feed without the bulk or awkwardness.
With heavier paints it actually works better than a gravity feed.Awesome gun but not cheap.
I still have my Binks Model 7&18 as well as several cheap gravity and suction feeds for those less than perfect jobs and primers.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks for the info Cammer. I'm close now I think. I feel that I can spray it to my satisfaction with this gun..with a little practice....Mostly just want to make sure the body itself is ready and clean before I do this..

[GT182]

Originally Posted by paint guy

Observe the minimum "flash-off" times between coats of clear (won't hurt to wait longer) to minimize chances of solvent popping.

Yeah, you do not want solvent popping Greg.... looks like bunches little pin holes in the paint. I have that problem with the paint on my car. Only one way to get rid of it..... . And I don't think you want to have to do that all over again. I have been lucky on a couple of spots tho. I did buff them out but came so very close to ruining the paint. It was on one of the most noticeable places on the car... rear top of the left front fender by the cowl panel. But at least I saved it.

[Greg Reid]

I'll be sure to read and obey all data sheets.

[Cammer-6]

one thing you can do to practice is to put some prekleano in the gun and spray the car.
you can then get a feel for the pattern of spray and how it lays down.
It will evaporate quickly so pay attention to what its doing right after you spray that area.
make sure you clean the gun out before using paint.

[Greg Reid]

I was planning to do just that in a couple of days Cammer. I have some extra paint around here too. Might paint something else before I paint the car.

[Cammer-6]

If youre going to use the same gun for clear and base it might bite you.
best to have 3 guns
primer,base,clear
otherwise you need to be 100% on your cleaning

[Greg Reid]

I'm using the same gun. I've done some research on it and with this gun and so far, no one has had a problem using it for both. I've actually got 5 or 6 guns but I bought this one specifically for this job.

[webfoot]

Can't wait to see how it turns out, you will be a source of great inspiration for this noob.

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by webfoot

Can't wait to see how it turns out, you will be a source of great inspiration for this noob.

Well, at the very least, I may show the world how NOT to do it.
I'm really trying to time it late enough for consistently mild temps and early enough to beat the pollen. It's going to be tough as the pollen in this part of the country is absolutely hellish.

[webfoot]

Just make sure you do a good job on the hood, that is all you can see while driving anyway. I plan on never slowing down long enough for people to notice the paint.