[goatman65]

Smoking while priming,reminds me of myself.

[jimib]

We removed the trim from around the rear window and found lots of rust. My auto body guy cut it out and welded in new metal (before/after pic’s). Being that it’s shaped like the letter V, this area collects water. He told me that the Jaguar’s have the same shape but incorporate a drainage system to prevent rust. My guy is going to weld in brake tubing on each end of the window and channel it to drain out the rear wheel wells.

[jimib]

My dining room table is now a “refurbish parts table”, I can do this, no wife, and I live alone. I thought the stainless steel was all chromed. I didn’t realize (I was taught) it could polish up so nicely; although, a small piece can take a few hours. This will save me much hard-earned money. The wire mesh grills are original, the plastic surrounds I had to buy new. The red piece on the table is from a wrecked Mazda; it’s called True Red. I think this is the color I want to go with.

[jimib]

Hello All,

We are inching closer towards paint. The welding is basically done and most of this car has been primed (2K primer). Putting the front end back together was a challenge and a small amount of mud will be needed behind the left front fender and rocker panel to make nice lines.

I want to point out a simple but intuitive modification my auto body guy did at the rear window. He welded in about 3 inches of brake line on the left and right of the rear window to allow for drainage of water. The pipe goes into the trunk where he will attach rubber tubing that drains water out the rear wheel wells.

[george kujanski]

Yep smart thing to do...did that to my Lemans in 1980 after repairing both of those corners. I haven't checked there on the current GTO yet........

George

[jimib]

I’m 7 months in to this ground-up resto and I estimate I have another 5 months to go. We have completed the welding phase. We used Rage Extreme filler and glazing putty where it was needed and primed the vehicle with 2K primer inside and out. We have to sand the primer (whole car) with 320 grit paper then it should be ready for PPG paint. Yes, this will be expensive. The car is up in the air so that we have easy access to seal the seams and under coat it with Body Schultz. I hope to begin pain within 3 weeks.

I thought it would be done in 6 months but my friend (auto body guy) has made clear the sub-standard workmanship down 20 years ago hence the rust in certain areas. My guess is that about 95 % of this vehicle has been cleaned, refurbished, or replaced.

[GeeTeeOhh]

Looks really good so far! I'm currently in a similar process myself, sandblasting and repairing front fenders and hood. I like the idea of the drain holes at the rear window. I have the same issue, as im sure many others do. I had my front inner fenders sandblasted and powdercoated. Did you end up putting undercoating on yours? If I remember right, that is how they came.

[zephyrracer]

Lookin good Jim.

Gregg

[gtome]

Yeah its an unbelieveable amount of work, however I would double whatever time you think it will take you to finish it. Maybe even triple it. The last 5% is what seems to take the most time. Restoring all the little brackets and window crap. I just spent a full week, 8-9 hour days, doing small parts for a 68 RS/SS. The car is done and ready for assembly. I should take a picture and post it up here of it all in one little room. HUGE pile of stuff!!

[jimib]

It’s been over a year from when I began this thread and finally we got it painted. It’s unlikely though I will have this car complete before the year is out. The paint is PPG. The color that I like and chose is the Mazda “Tru Red”, paint code A4A. The paint, hardener and reducer came to $1200 and I have an ample amount left over for future repairs.

We did this work in my garage and paint the doors, hood, trunk lid and car in pieces. We hosed down the ceiling, walls and floor prior to each step and that’s it. I know some folks here would gasp at this but my auto body guy was not concerned about this since we sanded (1500 grit) and buffed afterwards.

Currently I’m installing all new wiring and will soon to install the trim. May be awhile before I get the interior (big money).

[irgoatmike]

Nice job Jim! I am doing the same to my 67, in a very similar sized garage. The pictures brought back memories of all the rust repair I have done. Time to head out to the garage! Irgoatmike

[danpaul]

Looks great.
Nice score on finding your body guy also.

[bkmont]

Fantastic looking job Jim. I'm just starting my resto in my workshop. Hope it turns out as nice as yours.
Bryan

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by jimib

We did this work in my garage and paint the doors, hood, trunk lid and car in pieces. We hosed down the ceiling, walls and floor prior to each step and that’s it. I know some folks here would gasp at this but my auto body guy was not concerned about this since we sanded (1500 grit) and buffed afterwards.

It really looks good. I wanted to try this but just don't have a good place to do it. No room in the garage and I just couldn't bring myself to try it out in the open under a big oak tree that drops stuff 365 days a year.
What do you mean by 'hosed down the ceiling, walls and floor'? With water? If so, how'd you keep it from dripping down onto the car?

[jimib]

Danpaul: I could not have done this on my own, I’m lucky to have this master auto body guy. Even in a low income state like FLA, I’m fortunate to have his skills at $25.00 an hour.

Greg: A 2-car garage is the minimum amount of space to do this work at home. I live alone; so I have the privilege to temporarily convert my dining room into a new and refurbished parts depot (see pic’s). I don’t think a wife would allow this. Basically all small objects (that can hold dust) was removed from the garage. With the air compressor, we blew the dust out from around the ceiling lamps then I wiped them down with a wet rag. The garage walls and floor (cement) were vigorously hosed down with a garden hose and ceiling (drywall) carefully hosed down. I then used a squiggy to remove excess water. I put a box fan in the garage window to draw air out and opened the garage door about 6 inches to allow air in. I hosed down the driveway in front of the garage door to hold down dust. A damp garage floor is actually a good thing. There was no continuous drip. However; with the intense summer humidity down here in South FLA, moisture from the air compressor was a constant challenge. We used a toilet paper style wall mounted air dryer (see pic), about $100, and another and smaller dryer just before the gravity feed spray gun. Speaking of spray guns, nothing elaborate is needed for one-time use; the gun we used cost $60 from the local hardware stores. This info comes from my auto body guy.

[Greg Reid]

Thanks for the info. One of these days, I may try it with my '66....IF I ever get around to doing anything with it.

[webfoot]

I wish I would have thought of dusting the rafters. That really bit me in the buns. Car looks great, reassembly is fun!

[Old Goat 67]

Those fender extensions on a 67 should be black to join up with the grill housings.

[Greg Reid]

You talking about the pieces below the headlight Charles?

[400 4spd.]

Originally Posted by Old Goat 67

Those fender extensions on a 67 should be black to join up with the grill housings.

I agree. Seen too many painted body color like a '66.