[Jeffs64Cat]

Hello everyone,

After a 6 months of work on my Catalina I was ready to spray it. I read up on everything and talked to members here to make sure I was doing things correct. Build a filter system on one side of my garage. Another in my doorway where I place a fan to create the airflow. I washed the car down three times, wiped down with spray glass cleaner and finally the wax and grease remover from the paint manufacturer. Sprayed a color sealer, Bc, and the clear coat.

It shined and had a great reflection!! Waited a week to make sure everything when right.

With all the filtering I still had a lot of trash in the paint. But everyone said the can be wet sanded out.

Here’s where things went bad. Waited 5 days then started wet sanding with 3m 1200 grit. Knew about the edges and style lines not to sand too much around theses. But I burned through three time while just barely going over them. Here’s where it confused me. It went down the the gray highbuild primer. I sprayed three coats of red color sealer, three coats of base coat, and four coats of cleat coat. Why did it burn through so fast? Could I been spraying to dry to cause this problem? Now I’m afraid I’m going to have too redo the whole car because of matching the color.

Please help!

Picture of car with dull look was last coat of red sealer flashing off.

[dhutton]

Never sand over an edge. Sand up to the edge. Use green or blue masking tape on your edges to prevent sanding through. Dry sand your first cut because you can see when the trash is gone which will prevent removing too much material.

You should be able to make repairs without reshooting the whole car.

Don

[eric65]

just some suggestions other than the going thru the edges.. Looks like you laid the color down really good..
With your paint set up. I know you have filters on the air inlet, but look right outside the door and there's the ground and it looks real dry even like loose dirt. That's a bad inlet area for dirt to come in even though you have a nice filter setup. Somehow cover that outside dirt with plastic sheeting if that's all you have, or a real large tarp. I just think once you have air flow coming in that way that dirt will find a way in.. As well cover your shelves behind your car with plastic sheeting, actually when painting in a garage you should cover everything that's not a flat wall (and wash that wall with soap and water a lot).. Your work bench or tool chest, anything there can have dust dirt on it. You will find that once air is moving and your spraying, dirt from anywhere will screw you and move.. even from way under work benches... Just some ideas to prevent your problem in 1st place. Go to Home Creepo and get one of those giant rolls of 3 mil plastic, use it to seal off all those areas... Another thing .. how many times did you wash the floor?

[Tempest]

When I wet sanded mine, I started with 1500 paper, maybe 1200 is too aggressive for your paint thickness. (I know you said that you applied 4 coats of clear)

I am NO professional, but here is my suggestion.

Wet sand the entire car with 1500 grit, then spray color on each of the areas that have burned through. Spray a few coats on each spot, and each coat should spread wider and wider, so the color will "blend" into the old paint. Then, spray several coats of clear over those areas.

Once cured, wet sand those areas with 1500, and hopefully the respray will not be seen. Then wet sand the entire car with 2000 and finally 3000. Then polish.


The car looks really good, keep it going.....

[critter]

Whenever repairing BC/CC you will have to re-clear the entire panel where the repair is made. Some claim the clear can be "melted in" using a blending agent. I wouldn't chance it on a show car. Fix your base and then re-clear the whole panel.

[dhutton]

https://docs.wixstatic.com/ugd/8ced3...73d4f1f1b5.pdf

SPI blending solvent

Don

[Jeffs64Cat]

Thanks for all the replies. Reason I said re-shoot the whole thing is I don’t have anymore paint and will have to buy more.. I tried to repair but it it shows a ghost line where it meets the old clear. I’ve tried to wet sand it out,dry sand@1500 polish nothing works

[Jeffs64Cat]

Ordered more paint. Decided it’s best. Me being a new painter And can’t blend. So I’ve learned a lot.
I always thought the edges were sanded. And now after reading more in to it. You stay away from edges.
Going to put plastic up and on the floor. Filter system is changed. And air flow reduced. I can’t repaint it for a month so it’ll give the paint a chance to de-gas. I’ve already wet sanded to 800.

[firejunkie]

Wet the floor and out side area right before you paint, It will reduce your dust getting kicked up during painting.

[MUSLCAH]

Red is not cheap either....as you found out. Is that a solid red color,or metallic ? If it was solid...I would have gone with 4 coats of single stage.....cut and buff...looks way bettah than clear coat...but that’s just me.

[MUSLCAH]

You Evah run a Rotary buffer before.....there is a learning curve .

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

Red is not cheap either....as you found out. Is that a solid red color,or metallic ? If it was solid...I would have gone with 4 coats of single stage.....cut and buff...looks way bettah than clear coat...but that’s just me.

Hello Mike

Thought you’d chime in after the internet was fixed.
Yes it’s a soild color and Bc/Cc is what everyone said would be easier for a beginner. Yes I’ve buffed cars before.

Had no problems spraying it. It was the trash and wet sanding that gave me fits. Lol.

[68 461 Bird]

A couple of things I would recommend. There are a few good tips mentioned here by others.

First, your prep. I always had the fan pulling the fumes out of my make shift booth. I used a large industrial one on a stand. Made sure the area around the fan was blocked off so bugs and dust would have a hard time getting in.

Wet the floor down real good. I wouldnt use plastic on the floor.

The part about the you burning through too easily, i would only go over the edges with 2500 or 3000 very lightly. I am wondering if you went too fast with the gun and didn't lay down enough paint and clear. On that size car, with 4 coats of clear mixing 4 to 1 I think you would have used up most of the contents of each.

What brand of clear and paint are you using?

I also do not like single stage.urethane, it would dull off after about a year or two. Stick with BC/CC.

If you are going to paint the whole car again, block it out with 800 wet.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by 68 461 Bird

A couple of things I would recommend. There are a few good tips mentioned here by others.

First, your prep. I always had the fan pulling the fumes out of my make shift booth. I used a large industrial one on a stand. Made sure the area around the fan was blocked off so bugs and dust would have a hard time getting in.

Wet the floor down real good. I wouldnt use plastic on the floor.

The part about the you burning through too easily, i would only go over the edges with 2500 or 3000 very lightly. I am wondering if you went too fast with the gun and didn't lay down enough paint and clear. On that size car, with 4 coats of clear mixing 4 to 1 I think you would have used up most of the contents of each.

What brand of clear and paint are you using?

I also do not like single stage.urethane, it would dull off after about a year or two. Stick with BC/CC.

If you are going to paint the whole car again, block it out with 800 wet.

Thanks for the tips. My floor of my garage is wood and I’m afraid of wrapping it with the water. That’s why I was going to spray water on the plastic.

I’m using urekem for the coating store.

Also did wet sand at 800 on everything

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by 68 461 Bird

A couple of things I would recommend. There are a few good tips mentioned here by others.

First, your prep. I always had the fan pulling the fumes out of my make shift booth. I used a large industrial one on a stand. Made sure the area around the fan was blocked off so bugs and dust would have a hard time getting in.

Wet the floor down real good. I wouldnt use plastic on the floor.

The part about the you burning through too easily, i would only go over the edges with 2500 or 3000 very lightly. I am wondering if you went too fast with the gun and didn't lay down enough paint and clear. On that size car, with 4 coats of clear mixing 4 to 1 I think you would have used up most of the contents of each.

What brand of clear and paint are you using?

I also do not like single stage.urethane, it would dull off after about a year or two. Stick with BC/CC.

If you are going to paint the whole car again, block it out with 800 wet.

Today urethanes ( Quality paint like ICI Nexa) .....would not dull....your thinking of the old DuPont Centauri from the 80’s ...trust me.

[MUSLCAH]

Jeff....did you put like 10% - 15% hardner in the BASE Color ?

[MUSLCAH]

Run one of these too.

[MUSLCAH]

Attachment 489772

Run one of these too....on your spray gun.

[Jeffs64Cat]

Originally Posted by MUSLCAH

Jeff....did you put like 10% - 15% hardner in the BASE Color ?

Mike,

It said I could put two ounces of activator per sprayable quart in it to increase the durability. I didn’t last time. But plan on doing it this time..
I got extra activator for that purpose.

[MUSLCAH]

Originally Posted by Jeffs64Cat

Mike,

It said I could put two ounces of activator per sprayable quart in it to increase the durability. I didn’t last time. But plan on doing it this time..
I got extra activator for that purpose.

Without the hardner in the basecoat....That could present a problem ( where you have cut through the Clearcoat )..