#1  
Old 05-24-2020, 08:48 PM
MXTex MXTex is offline
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Default Fender options: what would you recommend

Included herein are pictures of the front fenders on my 1965 gto. The further I dig into them, the more rust rot I find. Previous body man simply filled the holes with bondo. Anyway, they need quite a bit of sheet metal work. And I'm an amateur at this stuff at best. What would you recommend?

1) Take the fenders (they are the originals) to a professional and have them properly repaired?
2) Buy new aftermarket fenders.

This is really discouraging to me. During this project, I took the body off the frame and took it to a professional to have all the rust fixed properly. Now as things are going back together I come across this. I guess it's part of the process. Anyhow, I sure would appreciate some recommendations on how I should handle this particular situation. I can have these fenders of in 15 minutes. And the entire car will be getting painted once it's back together. Thanks in advance.

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  #2  
Old 05-24-2020, 08:58 PM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
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Any rust/rot down the bottom of the fendah ...rear of wheel ? How do those fenders fit ?....you know ...fendah to door gap and hood gap ? If they fit well....and all you have to repair is what’s in the pics...I would have a pro...weld it up and finish those areas.

  #3  
Old 05-24-2020, 09:09 PM
PontiacJim1959 PontiacJim1959 is offline
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Personally, that is not bad and is an easy repair. I would try to stick with the originals as they will be a better fit than perhaps a repop. If you try to locate another original set in better shape, that may cost you more. Just give them a good once over and check underneath, the lower fender areas, wheel well openings, and the fender brace. If they seem ok, then fix those.

So I can fix/weld them up and butt weld the patches in versus overlap, so that is where my opinion is coming from. Now an auto shop might try and rape you on the price to repair because it is a "muscle car," so you may want to look around. I would even consider a welding/fab shop which may be a better bargain than an auto repair shop.

If you feel you have the skills to do this yourself, or want to try it, I found a really good video on You Tube that I think is great tutorial on welding up a patch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_u31t13QO6A

  #4  
Old 05-24-2020, 09:19 PM
gtolarry gtolarry is offline
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x2 on sticking with the originals. The repos don't fit as well. At least on my 67 they don't.

  #5  
Old 05-25-2020, 02:21 PM
MXTex MXTex is offline
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Took the drivers fender off and got to removing paint. It would appear the rust is pretty much everywhere between the fender and inner fender brace. I some areas, it has eaten through the fender. And in others the rust is just between the two pieces. Ideally, the two pieces (inner fender brace and fender) would be completely separated. I'm not sure I want to take this on. Would there be any recommendations on where I could take these for repair in or around Houston, TX? Attached are current pics.Click image for larger version

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  #6  
Old 05-25-2020, 06:19 PM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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The inner jamb/brace is just spot-welded to the fender.
It can be removed with a spot weld cutter.

Have the entire inner brace assembly sand blasted clean, same for backside of fender jamb.
Then start making weld repairs.

Some 3/16" - 1/8" drill holes in solid areas going through both panels as index/reference points first - to make re-install alignments quick and easy.

Bad part is it sounds quick and easy, but could actually eat up 3-5 hours per fender by the time they are in finish primer.
It would usually be a shame not to do the same operation to the rear fender braces during the same time. Another hour or two each - depending whats hiding - could be more.

So maybe estimate 8-10 hours minimum to treat both the upper and rear braces on both fenders, plus some refinishing labor/materials on backside areas both fenders.
Then exterior refinishing

Makes a pair of NOS fenders almost sound like a bargain from original first starting point to true finished point - in hindsight.

  #7  
Old 05-26-2020, 08:19 AM
MXTex MXTex is offline
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ID:	541086Thanks for the additional feedback. I went ahead and broke out the spot weld remover and cutting disc. Pics of the results included herein. Using the cut outs as templates, I'll try my hand at forming up some replacement piecess from sheet metal. The 90 degree bend should be easy enough. But getting the slight curve in the ninty'd piece is something I need to research. And I can spot weld sheet metal ok. So maybe this is doable? I'll give it a go for sure. Thanks again for the feedback and any suggestions on how to bend up the sheet metal would be appreciated.

  #8  
Old 05-26-2020, 09:19 AM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
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That’s a lot of welding ..on that seam. And grinding and fitting to the hood gap. Prayers sent

  #9  
Old 05-26-2020, 10:32 AM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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x2

hmm..
x47

  #10  
Old 05-26-2020, 10:53 AM
Baron Von Zeppelin Baron Von Zeppelin is offline
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Its do-able, but very tedious
and probably best to at least try it yourself - with shop costs in mind on top of what you probably already paid the other guy for his "work".

Before getting into all that forming and fitting -
maybe try finding a donor fender to take that section from.
66 and 67 are probably also eligible since they use the same hood.

Most fenders don't get rotted like that in that area.
So very possible someone has a fender that is wrecked or beyond use in other areas that would still be nice in your needed section.

thinking out loud
Thats not really the way i would have went at it, initially.
doesn't make me right or you wrong though

  #11  
Old 05-26-2020, 06:25 PM
PontiacJim1959 PontiacJim1959 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MXTex View Post
Attachment 541085

Attachment 541086Thanks for the additional feedback. I went ahead and broke out the spot weld remover and cutting disc. Pics of the results included herein. Using the cut outs as templates, I'll try my hand at forming up some replacement piecess from sheet metal. The 90 degree bend should be easy enough. But getting the slight curve in the ninty'd piece is something I need to research. And I can spot weld sheet metal ok. So maybe this is doable? I'll give it a go for sure. Thanks again for the feedback and any suggestions on how to bend up the sheet metal would be appreciated.
Make the curved section in 2 pieces. Use the wider section as your template to cut a strip of sheet metal the contour needed. The cut a thinner strip to match, and weld it on, tacking it all along the edge spacing out your tacks to minimize heat/warpage. Let cool, then fill in with additional tacks, again well spaced so as not to warp, let cool. Just do not be in a rush and use patience. Then grind to finish.

Don't know how long you plan to keep the car or are looking to flip it, but I might consider as an alternative sandblasting the rusty metal to get it clean, and then use a layer of fiberglass matting to fill it in. Fill with a quality fiberglass "bondo" like Everglass with the fiberglass strands, and sand/smooth, prime, light coat of body putty, sand/smooth, coat of primer, and then ready for paint. More on body work technique than welding and no one will be the wiser.

http://www.evercoat.com/product-deta...art/100622/us/

  #12  
Old 05-26-2020, 08:02 PM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Buying a used Pontiac...is like a box of Chocolates....you nevah know what your going to get..

  #13  
Old 05-26-2020, 08:04 PM
MUSLCAH MUSLCAH is offline
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[ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Fender in a can ..right here...lol
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2020, 11:56 PM
ANDYA ANDYA is offline
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A repair filler like USG All Metal would also be good in that area. Dries hard and covers welds but very difficult to sand.

  #15  
Old 05-29-2020, 09:15 PM
MXTex MXTex is offline
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Thank you very much for all the suggestions and feedback. I'm currently in a holding pattern exploring my options.

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