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#1
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Negative Battery Cable Length
Been doing some cleanup of my engine compartment and got some replacement spring ring battery cables. I didn't take a pic before I took it apart, but the negative cable seems a couple inches short from what I remember.
It just barely reaches to the negative post on the battery when routed through the clip on the bottom of the fender well. Before, I thought I had it routed pretty closely with the positive cable over the steering box. Does the pic look right to you all? I should've saved my old cable.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) Last edited by Verdoro 68; 07-05-2018 at 05:23 PM. |
#2
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Here’s a photo of my routing, which looks like neg cable is right length. However, I don’t have the clip at the bottom of fender well, nor is there a hole for a clip.
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Don't rush me - it's only year 20 of the 3 year restoration! 68 GTO convertible YS M40, A/C, PS, PB-disc, Posi-T, PW, P-seat, AM-FM stereo 8-track, P-ant, P-trunk lid, Tilt-S, Rally gauges, Hideaways C1 224 Triple white |
#3
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Thanks. The resto guide shows a diagram where the positive and negative (for R/A applications) go through the clip at the bottom of the fender well but it doesn't show how the negative cable is routed beyond that. For '70 they apparently changed and only routed the positive cable through the clip.
I'll keep poking through my old pics, maybe I have one that shows how it used to be routed.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#4
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I can measure my re-pop cable, but I would imagine its the same as you have have. Bought it from Ames over 10 years ago. I can tell you my original 68 inner fender well does not have a hole in it for a clip like that either.
I had assumed (until now) both positive & negative cables went up to the top of the well, but I haven't got to the point of installing them yet. Interesting Topic.
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
#5
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Yours looks roughly the same length as the one I have. The last cable I bought was over 10 years old so maybe they changed the length over that time. It’s funny how you can get caught up in these little details. The way it’s routed now looks sloppy to me.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#6
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My battery cable is exactly 38-1/8" long overall. including the connectors at each end, & with the lug end for the engine side un-bent. I bought it from Ames probably 14 years ago?
Here is the same or similar diagram from the 69 assembly manual. Looks like the same pict with a few part numbers. Appears to be the same 545249 clip used in other places. Could this be a 69 thing? Wonder why neither KK68 or I have holes in our fender wells. Something added in 69 maybe? It does have some measurements for the hole & says there is a dimple for it. I looked again on my 68 wheelwell & I don't see a dimple. "0" line could be a frame measurement reference point? .
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA Last edited by 68ragtop; 07-09-2018 at 07:08 AM. |
#7
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Maybe it was a plant or an early/late '68 thing? My car was built in May '68 in Arlington.
The diagram you show above is what the resto guide calls for in '70 since the negative is routed outside that clip. Taking the negative cable outside of the clip might give it a little more slack, maybe I'll try that. I'm pretty sure the clips are the same one that holds the harness to the top of the fenderwell, at least that's what I'm using. Part number P101 in the Ames catalog.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
#8
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Kinda looks like the clip was just for the positive cable on the Ram Air engines. Which would explain why my car doesn't have one.
If you look close, the wire going through the loop does line up better on the positive cable & the note mentions "POS L67, L74 engines only". There is another drawing that shows the engine side routing of that cable on the RA engines as well. I can post that if it helps at all.
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
#9
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Here's the engine side. Notes are: "242 series L67, L74 except A/C"
.
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
#10
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Wonder if there is any chance some holes were drilled during assembly? Would explain any coordinates and sizes mentioned for the holes. And perhaps some workers were remiss in drilling said holes if they were a bit behind.
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#11
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I might have drilled the hole in my fender well when I put the RA manifolds on years ago. Usually you'll find dimples where holes would be punched for optional equipment or alternate configurations.
Interesting that they ran the positive cable through the fuel pump lines.
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Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) Last edited by Verdoro 68; 07-10-2018 at 02:04 PM. |
#12
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I thought the same thing. What cold possible go wrong there?
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
#13
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Speaking of Grounds, how imperative do you think it is to have a rag joint with the ground wire? My original had a ground wire & I would assume was to help ground the intermediate shaft & column? I can't see a purpose for it unless it helps for the horn button? The bearings in the column should ground the shaft if that's what its for.
I keep forgetting about that & your picture that shows the rag joint reminded me.
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
#14
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Bearings ... if lubricated, tend to be horrible grounds, and if not lubricated ... horrible bearings
Anyway ... I bet that little ground strap on the rag joint not being there is a source of many a hard to diagnose electrical problem. Although ... when you think about it, it connects to a shaft that travels through seals, bearings and oil ... so it wouldn't be a "hard" ground either. |
#15
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The knuckle in the intermediate shaft is two pivot points full of grease too. I do have a tilt column which should have have more bearing "grounding" points. I guess if my horn is flakey I'll know where to look, but I am thinking there must be a lot of GM cars that don't have a great ground to the steering wheel.
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68 GTO 4-spd Convertible 78 S/E Trans am L78, WS6 Auto 78 S/E Trans am W72, WS6 Auto 79 10th aniv W72 Trans am 80 Indy pace car Trans am 89 Trans am GTA |
#16
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by the way, speaking of iffy grounds be careful to not have any paint on the grounding stud for the negative cable on the cylinder head. Heavy paint here can weaken voltage to the starter.
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My Break Away Squad 1969 Fbird (Base, 350 & Sprint Cvt’s - 400HO & TA Hardtops) 1969 LeMans (2dr & 4dr Hardtop and a Cvt) 1969 LeMans Safari 2 seat Wagon 1969 GTO (2 Cvt, 2 Hardtops & Judge Hardtop) 1969 Catalina (3 Cvt’s & a 2dr hardtop) 1969 Ventura 2 Seat Wagon 1969 Executive 4dr Sedan 1969 Bonnie Cvt 1969 Bonnie 3 Seat Wagon (2 of them) 1969 Bonnie Brougham (4dr Hardtop & Cvt) 1969 Grand Prix SJ (2 of them) 1969 2+2 2dr Hardtop (Canadian model) |
#17
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Well, a good way to check. Turn on the ignition and operate various steering column related electrics while using a volt ohm meter from a disconnected rag joint wire to a good ground somewhere. I'd think anything close to 12v showing up there would indicate it as a possible ground. Or even use the amp setting on the VOM to see how much is flowing if any.
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#18
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Thanks for reminding me ... mine is covered in engine paint.
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#19
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Anyone have a photo of that rag joint ground? I don't recall ever noticing that on any car and I'm pretty sure I don't have one.
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Greg Reid Palmetto, Georgia |
#20
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What's the ground strap look like? Assuming it's the metal piece that goes between the bolts?
The rag joint on mine is aftermarket. I got it from Lee when I did the Jeep steering box swap.
__________________
Ken '68 GTO - Ram Air II 464 - 236/242 roller - 9.5” TSP converter - 3.55 posi (build thread | walk around) '95 Comp T/A #6 M6 - bone stock (pics) |
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