[PurelyGTO68]

I have a handful of nylon bushings, a bag of wavy washers and a bag of 2 way reversible lock nuts. Let me know if you need any of that stuff.

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[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

I have a handful of nylon bushings, a bag of wavy washers and a bag of 2 way reversible lock nuts. Let me know if you need any of that stuff.

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Thanks for the offer. Everything that came apart looks pretty good, with exception to the chrome pivot bolts. Interesting how the mechanism must have been painted as an assembly & doesn't look like it was dunked in paint like so many other parts were. looks like about a satin ish 30% gloss level? Even the areas hidden are not very shiny. But 50 years has most likely knocked it down in luster.

What brand Top are you going with?

[PurelyGTO68]

That baffled me also. As best as I can tell, it looked like the individual pieces were painted separately....maybe dipped but could have been sprayed? There is black paint in areas that would be very hard to cover if spraying. But it also looks like the assembly was painted after it was riveted and bolted together but before the male hinges were installed? Maybe a final touch up coat just prior to going into the car?

The chrome hex head pivot bolts for the middle and rear bow had black paint on them....which is weird since they were chromed. Did those four bolts (2 per side) on your car have black paint on them? I presume the dome hex head chromed bolts for the main pivot and cylinder ram were unpainted....as well as the side rail link arm hardware (carriage bolt, serrated thick washer hardware)...and the super short bolt for the rear bow drag link. Is this what you observed in your frame as well?

I assembled the complete frame on the floor and then attempted to install as an assembly. I figured that was how the factory did it since the male hinge has a slot for the lower bolt hole? However, I was not able to get it lifted into place since the male hinges were too wide to fit down into the well without fear of damaging the trim or paint. So I ended up removing both male hinges from the assembly. I then set some rags on top of the inner wheel wells, and placed the folded frame into the well in its stowed position.

Then the male hinged can go in and the pivot bolts through the frame and connect the drag links for the rear bow. Then the cylinders and it all worked out okay

Here is my first test with the pump motor.
https://youtu.be/d2g2Y2Zz02I

I ordered my top from Ames. I think it is a Kee top?

Looked like semi gloss black to me. The underside of the male hinges were pretty shiny as well as the protected surfaces of the side rail assemblies (under the weatherstrip pieces)



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[Tim john]

Keep in mind that a lot of convertible top pump suppliers will not warranty and do not recommend the use of brake fluid as a medium for the system and if you use it as such the warranty will be void. I had been advised to use Dextron in our Firebird pump and system. This was from (click on the provided hyper link) http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...3D2wCFsSk0kCj0 out of Florida, my pump, lines and cylinders were all purchased from here. Excellent service and pricing.

Tim john---

[Peter Serio]

Never use brake fluid. Since you have all new and/or rebuilt parts that go to your power top now I would start fresh and use ATF. I would not mix old parts with new, even if you try and empty out all of the old fluid some will still remain. As I recall Pre-'67 GM used brake fluid in all their power top cars.

[68ragtop]

Here are the bolts. They were all natural or chrome with exception to four of them

[68ragtop]

I had no intension of using brake fluid. Just the thought of it makes the hair on my arms stand up.
I don't even want to think of the disaster that could make. It just seemed that's what was in mine.
Wasn't early trans fluid clear before Dextron came to the scene?

[PurelyGTO68]

That makes a lot more sense! Thanks!

The bolts in your first photo are painted black as were mine. The two hex bolts are chrome under the paint. That tells me the side rail assembly #54 (front and center) was bolted to the rear side rail #18 and then painted a second time. This is why bolts #16 and #65 are black. I also had black paint on the exposed portion of those large brass bushings...which now makes sense. I guess I need to make sure mine are painted before I install the top.

Did you not find any wavy washers under the other bushing flanges?

There should be two short bushings at each of the cylinder ram eyelet openings....and two wavy washers. I only see one bushing per side. Is that all you found on your car? (See #35 & 45 in the attached)


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[vidguy]

Good info. I reworked mine years ago. As a note the convertible top motor reservoirs on those cute little late 80's early 90's Chrysler LeBarons fit perfectly on these old pumps - as does the O-ring. The motor is a good match too except for the mounting feet locations. I drove mine with one installed for a while in the summer while I had the rams rebuilt in the early 90's.

[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

Did you not find any wavy washers under the other bushing flanges?

There should be two short bushings at each of the cylinder ram eyelet openings....and two wavy washers. I only see one bushing per side. Is that all you found on your car?

So this is interesting. I wasn't sure what you were talking about at first & didn't recall seeing anything like that. Then I looked on one of the extra cylinders I had taken from another car years back. Sure enough, it had the two bushings & spring washers. I looked at the bracket & no way it would fit. it would appear mine only had the one bushing & nothing else. Guessing it was over tightened to compensate & has likely always been like that. can even see evidence from the marks on the inside of the bracket. So many weird things happened with these cars.

[68ragtop]

What is this bracket? Looks familiar, but might be one of my misplaced parts.
I looked in the assembly manual but couldn't find it. Hmmmmm.

[kk68]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

What is this bracket? Looks familiar, but might be one of my misplaced parts.
I looked in the assembly manual but couldn't find it. Hmmmmm.

Part of the weatherstripping. Seals back of the quarter window opening.

[68ragtop]

Originally Posted by kk68

Part of the weatherstripping. Seals back of the quarter window opening.

Ahhh, thanks. Then I should have it

[68ragtop]

I was surprised at how much amperage these oe pumps draw. while I only completely restored the ones that's going in the GTO, I rebuilt the other one by resurfacing the commutator, cleaning & installing new seals. It draws over 25a when pushing fluid. That seems awfully high & probably explains why so many cars had resettable breakers or shorting bars in the accessory fuse slot. I would imagine the new aftermarket pumps are a bit more efficient?

[68ragtop]

Anybody ever put check how much these motors draw for amperage. I had 7amps without the pump gears installed, & nearly 30amps when cycling oil through it. Wires would even get warm. Seems excessive. I am guessing newer pumps are way more efficient?

[kk68]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

Also, I noticed your oe pump had a sticker on the reservoir. Mine had the same. I wonder what that was. I see those stickers available that say "type a automatic transmission fluid" But, this one I have was brake fluid, so it must have said something else.

Here’s a pic of the original sticker on my pump/motor from Arlington April built 68 GTO. Says CAUTION REFILL WITH TYPE “A” TRANS. FLUID Pretty sure mine had ATF in it but it was light brown in color, not red, and initially I wondered if it was brake fluid instead of ATF. Good to know the red color of ATF came a little later. I refilled mine with a dextron compatible (Castrol Transmax DEX/MERC) ATF.

[PurelyGTO68]

Have any of you guys stretched your tops yet? I am working on mine and there are a pair of eyebrow marks on each sail panel. I noticed them when I took the top out of the package but figured they would stretch out. The left side is barely visible now but the right side marks are still noticeable.

Anyone have these marks on their top and how did you deal with them?

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[68ragtop]

I am a very long ways away from putting my top on, but yours is looking pretty darn nice & tight. Any problems with it pulling the a-pillar back when you lock it down, or is it not quite that tight?

I wonder if you can steam those marks out. thats a Tee top? Looks great!

[PurelyGTO68]

Originally Posted by 68ragtop

I am a very long ways away from putting my top on, but yours is looking pretty darn nice & tight. Any problems with it pulling the a-pillar back when you lock it down, or is it not quite that tight?

I wonder if you can steam those marks out. thats a Tee top? Looks great!

Yes, a Kee Top. I was thinking of trying some steam and see what happens. I don't think the A pillars moved at all. But it is very tight right now. I haven't glued the flaps yet. Will wait a couple of weeks and see if any wrinkles appear. The top should relax a little by then. Hopefully...

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[kk68]

Originally Posted by PurelyGTO68

Have any of you guys stretched your tops yet? I am working on mine and there are a pair of eyebrow marks on each sail panel. I noticed them when I took the top out of the package but figured they would stretch out. The left side is barely visible now but the right side marks are still noticeable.

Anyone have these marks on their top and how did you deal with them?

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I finished installing my top about 6 months ago. Put a Kee Top on mine as well. Very happy with it and yes it needs to be tight. The installation was a long process and probably the toughest job I had to do in my restoration. Had to pull it out, adjust and restaple along the tack strip several times, especially trying to get the sail panels right.

I had/have a few of the marks/creases along the sail panels as well. I used a heat gun on low and took most of them out. Steaming would be better if you have access to one, got to be very careful with a heat gun not to melt the vinyl and really screw it up! However, after you start putting the top down, I found that creases will inevitably show up again as the top gets folded. They fade away for the most part after the top is back up and stretched tight.

Looks like a very nice job on your top. You could use steam or heat gun and take those marks out, but I also think they will stretch/fade out over time without doing anything.