[Formulabruce]

Grab old MC lid, then buy a threaded schrader valve that has threads on the exterior, could be brass..( tractors often have them.. tractor supply) Drill 1/2 'hole through lid , bolt the new schrader valve into the lid and make sure its sealed. Get a small hand air pump, like you might use on a bicycle. Pump the pressure to 15 psi after lid is on and secure. Let sit 15 minutes, check pressure, increase to 20 psi, then bleed brakes. This is how I do it as a 1 person operation.

[TAKerry]

Originally Posted by Formulabruce

Grab old MC lid, then buy a threaded schrader valve that has threads on the exterior, could be brass..( tractors often have them.. tractor supply) Drill 1/2 'hole through lid , bolt the new schrader valve into the lid and make sure its sealed. Get a small hand air pump, like you might use on a bicycle. Pump the pressure to 15 psi after lid is on and secure. Let sit 15 minutes, check pressure, increase to 20 psi, then bleed brakes. This is how I do it as a 1 person operation.

That's a pretty neat trick.
I had trouble with mine. Ended up being the first 2 brand new master cylinders I bought were bad. Third one was a charm!

[1974SD455]

This is a good idea. Thanks! I hope to get back to my garage this weekend and wrap this project up.
Based on what I have researched, the problem is likely that the spool valve in the combination block, has been pushed to block flow to the front brake lines. I will try to reset this, then if pressure/flow of fluid is at front bleeders, I’ll try this one person method out.

Thanks

[1971455HO]

Realize this is an old thread (April 2019), but thanks to 1974SD455 & all those who posted it up. Running roller rockers now so had to go with 1" taller valve covers. only daylight between booster now. it touches/hammers when engine is running. Bought a 9" Delco from Summit. Looks just like the original, just smaller. Thanks for the info guys. That's tomorrow's project.

It's what happens when you change one thing, you have to modify 4 other things.