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Old 09-17-2019, 10:28 AM
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68lemans462 68lemans462 is offline
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Default Front sway bar, unbolt at dragstrip?

I drive my car to the dragstrip which is less than 10 miles from my house. Earlier this year I took the front sway bar off and the car seems to launch better. I do not, however, like driving the car without the bar installed. Is there a way I can unbolt one/both ends at the strip and leave the bar in? What's the best way to do this, or is this a no-no?

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Old 09-17-2019, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68lemans462 View Post
I drive my car to the dragstrip which is less than 10 miles from my house. Earlier this year I took the driveshaft off and the car seems to launch better. I do not, however, like driving the car without the bar installed. Is there a way I can unbolt one/both ends at the strip and leave the bar in? What's the best way to do this, or is this a no-no?
Old school trick is to leave the bar in place, but shim the U strap attachments at the frame so that they are loose.

That way the bar is free to swing as the front end lifts, with no binding as a result of the clamps, but still functions as a bar if body roll is introduced.

K

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Old 09-17-2019, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Seymore View Post
Old school trick is to leave the bar in place, but shim the U strap attachments at the frame so that they are loose.

That way the bar is free to swing as the front end lifts, with no binding as a result of the clamps, but still functions as a bar if body roll is introduced.

K
So, just get some longer bolts and a thick shim that would fit underneath the U shaped sway bar bracket? How much shim will I need?

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Old 09-17-2019, 10:42 AM
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The thickness of a washer is probably all that is needed?
(just makes the cover not clamp down on the rubber bushing as tightly)



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Old 09-17-2019, 11:53 AM
Chief of the 60's Chief of the 60's is offline
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Interesting ^^^

I have no launch issue but I do remember Jeep offering some type of sway bar link "from the factory" as an option that you were able to easily disconnect for better off-road articulation. Anyone else know about this or if these links are available aftermarket?

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Old 09-17-2019, 12:23 PM
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Chief.....

https://www.morris4x4center.com/sway...-82210218.html. Heavy and complicated. Unnecessary.

Most just remove sway bars for enhanced articulation. Its a Jeep, handling is not high on the list. Mine is strictly for bullet proof off road capability, go where I wish.
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Old 09-17-2019, 12:35 PM
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WOW! How in the hell does that work? I thought it somehow disconnected the links.


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Old 09-17-2019, 12:52 PM
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OK so you guys are saying this is as easy as: get to dragstrip, loosen bolts on the U sway bar bracket on each side. Add a spacer (I'm thinking an alignment shim or 2 could work?) then snug the bolts back up and good to go?
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Old 09-17-2019, 12:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 68lemans462 View Post
OK so you guys are saying this is as easy as: get to dragstrip, loosen bolts on the U sway bar bracket on each side. Add a spacer (I'm thinking an alignment shim or 2 could work?) then snug the bolts back up and good to go?
Almost.

Loosen bolts at home; add spacer, re-torque the bolts, leave in place forever.

K

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Old 09-17-2019, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Chief of the 60's View Post
WOW! How in the hell does that work? I thought it somehow disconnected the links.

Standard Equipment on the Jeep Rubicons only. I have a 2018 and the system works great. Only works under 19 or 20 MPH and in 4lo/4hi.

Basically a geared system on the swaybar. Sway bar is split design. Retracts gear when button is pushed on dash.

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Old 09-17-2019, 01:29 PM
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Yeah, does not seem practical for racing but is rather interesting. Too expensive as well. Probably be kind of neat on a high end custom though.

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Old 09-17-2019, 03:49 PM
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X2 what Keith said.
You can also loosen the nut on the upper A-arm pivot point for some freer movement. (but have to make sure that it doesn't loosen up more later on)


Lots of little tricks out there. (for the cheap section?)



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Old 09-17-2019, 09:06 PM
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You can also use a flat washer on the upper control arms instead of the cupped washer

I did this with polyurethane bushings and my A arms move with very little force

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Old 09-18-2019, 09:07 AM
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I tried at the track connected and not connected-no difference on my 78.

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Old 09-18-2019, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
I tried at the track connected and not connected-no difference on my 78.
I suspect most of any gain (if any) is a result from the weight savings (and subsequent improved weight transfer) off the front end when the whole assembly is removed.

In the fuel economy world we have a name for this: "directionally correct but not measureable".

K

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Old 09-18-2019, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skip Fix View Post
I tried at the track connected and not connected-no difference on my 78.
X 2 .....just twisted the front end more.

This picture is with the sway bar frame bushings shimmed... It was a lot worse with the sway bar removed
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Old 09-18-2019, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Seymore View Post

In the fuel economy world we have a name for this: "directionally correct but not measureable".

K
I like that

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Old 09-18-2019, 10:53 AM
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Quote:
I tried at the track connected and not connected-no difference on my 78.
To me that would almost suggest that you still have binding or restriction on movement in front end? (or not enough power to make a difference)

Does the front end rise on launch?

Do you have the adjustable front shocks?

Like Paul's car, I would be working the rear suspension/chassis stuff to get it to leave level.
I spent a long time on mine to get it to launch great and leave level.
At 1st it was especially hard with no 'posi' in rear end. Making both tires hook takes some work. Then work on the front to make the transfer better. Etc. Etc. Etc.



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Old 09-19-2019, 07:50 PM
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Making the turn on the return road at some tracks had a lot more body sway also.

It is off the Camaro/IA project though more for weight. Once we dry out from this tropical storm and now that it is cooler hopefully will get it dialed in some.

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Old 09-20-2019, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnta1 View Post

Like Paul's car, I would be working the rear suspension/chassis stuff to get it to leave level.



My car needs a cage, but doesn't have a roll bar. I don't race the car often but was planning on trying to level things out a bit by adding bars going from the firewall to the subframe and welding the bolt in frame connectors to the floor.

What work would you suggest for the rear suspension?

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